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Please don't use glues/sealants to fix possible intake leaks. You'll just waste your time. Get new ones and new o-rings too if applicable.
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And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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Nope. It's only good to 200 - 225 degrees. Plus, it's not flexible.Originally posted by rustybronco View Post1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
Eat more venison.
Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.
Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.
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Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!Comment
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Before vulcanization (curing), rubber can indeed be softened, and sometimes melted, if it is done very carefully. After curing, the rubber can be slightly softened, but it can't be melted.Originally posted by REDDY View Post
The rubber isn't liquid when it is attached to the metal. The formation of the rubber polymer from the rubber monomers is done in a liquid solution. The liquid is evaporated, leaving crumbs. The crumbs are washed, dried again, and compressed into blocks. The blocks are thrown into a Banbury mixer with carbon black (tires are 1/3 carbon black) oil, anti-oxidants and anti-ozonants and a bunch of other things, especially curing agents, and mixed until it is a stinking 300+F mass. The mass is milled into flat sheets and cooled. Often, this sheet is later forced through and extruder, which heats it again, and a small pieces are formed with particular shapes. Those shapes are put into a hot mold, next to the metal piece, which has likely been treated with a special glue. The rubber is subjected to severa; thousand psi of pressure as the mold closes. The entire thing heats up to somewhere near 400F while the curatives cross-link the rubber. After curing, the mold opens and the part is cured and inspected.
(I used to do this for a living. Who would have guessed?)
Get a new intake boot!sigpic[Tom]
“The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George KennanComment
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I used a permatex type stuff that has been in my garage waiting for something like this. It was called "yamabond" and is a semidrying "liquid gasket". So far, since the spring, it has worked great.
But then buy new, for your sanity later.
Oh, I just noticed the post where you did use permatex. Hah, brilliant!Comment
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Originally posted by themess View Post
ASK AN EXPERT TIME
After reading this, it occurred to me that latex has a fairly high melt point, and is available in liquid form, so it could be painted on. The solvent, I believe, is ammonia and the solution mostly water. I have no idea how heat-stable it is once dried, but the paint-and-dry latex solution is used in making molds from existing items..Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'
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"Latex" is an aqueous emulsion of rubber. It can have almost any chemical composition. There are dozens of types of rubber, and each is available in dozens of sub-types. The sap of milkweed plants is a natural rubber latex. Ammonia is added in low concentration as a presevative to prevent the growth of bacteria and mold. Latex can be made with curatives added, so that it can cross link.Originally posted by argonsagas View Post
Heat stability after drying depends on the type of rubber in the latex and on the additives.
Many of the suggestions will likely temporarily seal an intake boot. But gasoline flows through the boot, so the patch must resist gasoline. Few types of rubber or sealants do. The rubber-metal interface of the intake boot must be mechanically strong, since this supports part of the weight of the carburetor. Stress concentrates at interfaces where the modulus of materials changes suddenly, like the rubber-metal interface. Getting rubber to stick to metal, and to stay stuck, is pretty damn difficult.
The patch will almost certainly fail slowly, resulting in performance problems that might be difficult to notice at first. We compensate for poor performance by opening the throttle, and using more gas, which costs more money.sigpic[Tom]
“The greatest service this country could render the rest of the world would be to put its own house in order and to make of American civilization an example of decency, humanity, and societal success from which others could derive whatever they might find useful to their own purposes.” George KennanComment
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If we buy enough intake boots, Suzuki will keep making them, and the day when we have to mold our own from outdated innertubes and chewing gum will remain comfortably distant...1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
Eat more venison.
Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.
Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.
SUPPORT THIS SITE! DONATE TODAY!
Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!Comment
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you would be better off trying hose clamps.At least they wont be sucked into your cylinder and trash your bike for good.Comment
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I polished the aluminum with a wire wheel then got my local window shop to glue them up with some goop that holds well to aluminum. They worked for a year and then I was talked into new boots. When I took them off one of three had failed. Of course all three had failed before I stated. So if you like a challenge and you know a window guy.....
RTComment
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