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spark plug leads - tank removal?

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    spark plug leads - tank removal?

    Quick question - am I going to have to pull the tank to replace my spark plug leads on my '81 GS450LX? Are the leads integral to the coils?

    I ask because I don't have a garage, and my GS sits on the street - thus, no garage to lay up in while I fiddle about in the internals. Today I made it half a block, sputtering and dying, I decided to check the leads. The starboard lead cap came off in my hand. Both caps are pretty ratty, and I don't trust the leads either. So I'm going to plug the cap back in and ride to the shop if this isn't something I can do in a few minutes.

    Also, it should be said that I'm a lot less handy than I think I am, and especially with electricals, so if doing it myself involves multimeters or any of that, I should probably take it in. I can learn all about that junk later, when I have a garage, I hope.

    #2
    There's a thread I started about this... if yours are the same as mine you have to dig some sealant out of the coils, push new wires in & redo the sealant...

    Have a click on threads I started & you'll see it soon enough.

    Dan
    1980 GS1000G - Sold
    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

    Comment


      #3
      On my 83 the boots or caps did go out but the wires looked ok. I replaced the wires any way. You can't buy just the wires from Suzuki, they consider them to be a permanent part of the coil. The wires do come out. If like mine there are semi-circle plastic clips that go on the wires that will snap into the coils when you push the wire in. I tried to get them out in one piece but they were destroyed in the process. NO PROBLEM! Just go to the auto parts store and get some bulk 8mm solid copper core spark plug wire, cut it to size and then seal them in with a silicone sealant. First problem is the auto parts stores don't sell bulk wire anymore and I couldn't find any 4 cylinder auto sets that are copper. Well I settled for some type of 8mm 4 cylinder set and it works OK. Next issue is the boots. OEM from BikeBandit for mine were $14.00 each OUCH. NGK makes 5 ohm aftermarket boots that sell for about $4.00 each. I didn't bother to try to find them locally and used Z1Entriprises on the net. It took about a week to get them. Another GSer wrote in a post that he got them from his local Suzuki dealer. You need to have one of your old boot/caps handy when you order/buy. They are sized for two different thread diameters. As I remember they were 8mm & 10mm or 12mm & 14mm plug sizes. That is the size of the threads that screw into the head. The next is the cap. They make a straght cap, a 90 degree, a 102 degree and a 120 degree.

      I would think your coils are under the tank like mine and yes it has to come off. It's not difficult. Take off the seat. I can't tell by the fiche, but there are one or two bolts or some type of holder that releases the back of the tank. Raise the back and remove the hose(s) from the petcock. If you have a fuel gauge disconnect the wires and pull off the vent line if any. Next slide the tank rearward a little and lift it off.

      The coils are tested for replacement by measuring the resistance with an ohm meter. Almost all electric test meters do this. Look for the setting that has a Greek "Omega" letter. Its an upside down "U" with feet. Your repair manual will tell you were to test it and what levels are good. If you don't have a manual and/or test meter just check the wires for cracks in the insulation, stiffness or other defects. If they look OK just screw on your new boots and try it out You'll probably be OK. LOL!!!
      Last edited by Guest; 11-16-2006, 10:26 AM.

      Comment


        #4
        z1 enterprises sells NGK plug wire splicers. They will let you splice new wires onto your coils. Be sure to replace the caps too, they are only like $4 from Z1

        What I would do is pull it apart and test the coils, be sure they are good before you replace anything. Provided the coils are in spec, put it all back together and order your stuff. When it comes you can change out plugs and wires in prolly 30 min.

        I feel your pain. I fought with a crappy-running GS while living in an apartment building for months. It got to the point I had my bike parked in the kitchen to keep people from griping about it.

        Edit--> Duh, your 450 only has 1 coil, but you get the idea.

        Comment


          #5
          thanks everybody! ok, based on what you've all said, i think i'm taking it to the shop. this isn't because it sounds particularly difficult, and you've explained it very well. it's just because i don't want to run into a problem and have to leave a half-disassembled bike on the street for two days while I track down parts. seriously, i'm have lurid, almost erotic dreams about having a garage. apartment living sucks in that respect.

          Comment


            #6
            Might be hard to find a shop to do the repair this way... they will surely want to fit new coils as well as leads.

            If you go that way get coils with standard connections on them to make it easy next time....

            Dan
            1980 GS1000G - Sold
            1978 GS1000E - Finished!
            1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
            1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
            2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
            1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
            2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

            www.parasiticsanalytics.com

            TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

            Comment


              #7
              that's a good point about a shop wanted to redo the coil. thankfully, after the corroded ends were trimmed away, the leads looked good - no cracking or anything - so the mechanic just slapped some new caps on. worked like a charm, nice fat spark. he's a nice guy, and i've given him a lot of business, so i was out the door for less than $20, which included the parts, his time and opinion, and a tip for fitting me into his busy day.

              you know, a nice and honest mechanic is almost as good as doing it yourself, in my opinion (and a lot less likely to screw things up too)

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