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    #16
    Thanks everyone. Tis is how today transpired...

    I went to 5 different stores (three of some twice) and I think I reached some solution. I was able to go to sears and get a metric die pack for 17 bucks (5 dies). It has M10 1.25 and M8 1.25 so I went ahead and paid for it. Using an adjustable wrench (i know I know) I slowly thread the M10 die back through the rod. I did use oil.

    The result was a decent enough looking thread. It was a little rough and it had a little too much lateral play for the nut in my opinion. I went to three of the previous stores looking for M10 1.25 lock nuts thinking that might be better. Upon resturning empty handed I had a similar thought to what duane said, only I was thinking about using jbweld to build up the material before cutting it down again.

    That led me to my next idea. I eventually just said "To hell with it" and put about 4-5 layers of thread locking tape on the thread. I used the previously loose M10 1.25 nut and it went on smoothly with no play. I tightened it down to a reasonable degree of torque and it seems to be holding!

    Now, this might be a horrible idea, but it seems to be working for now... perhaps this is something I should just keep checking as part of a pre-ride ritual. Of course, I've been working on the bike for 8 months now and I've never ridden it so....

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      #17
      Drill a hole throught the bolt and stud and wire it. Works for race bikes, it will work for yours. Do both sides so it looks normal.
      1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
      1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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        #18
        Like they said, there's no lateral force on the nut, it's mainly there to keep the shock from falling off. You should be fine, but I like the idea of safety wireing it. Plus you can brag to your friends that it's a "trick custom modification" you did to your bike.....\\/

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          #19
          Hehe... I'll consider that

          Thanks for all the input folks!

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