The bike runs well but after about an hour of open road riding then the battery looses its charge and the" I hope I'am close to home happens" the bike looses power and eventually stops. Is this normal ?? and would joining the two stator wires give the battery that little bit extra charge it needs. I have looked for the answer in my service manual and have followed www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm Help!!!
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Stator wire's
Hi there I have a bit of a dilema with the charging of my battery in my 1979 GS1000L. The battery appears to be in good condition,but is going to be replaced. I have only had this bike for around a month, but it was in better condition than the my other GS1000L, so I have swapped some things over as the new one has only done 11,000 km's or 6800 mile's. The problem I have is the previous owner has put in electronic ignition "no point's yay" but he has taken a feed off the stator wires. In doing so he has left one orange wire and one blue and white wire taped up and going no where. The question is can these two wires be spliced into the other two corresponding colours coming from the stator and into the R/R.
The bike runs well but after about an hour of open road riding then the battery looses its charge and the" I hope I'am close to home happens" the bike looses power and eventually stops. Is this normal ?? and would joining the two stator wires give the battery that little bit extra charge it needs. I have looked for the answer in my service manual and have followed www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm Help!!!Tags: None
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txironhead
Those two wires might go to the "overload bypass" that sends excess current to the headlight (gee, really bright (no pun intended) idea) when the regulator can't handle it. This circuit is normally only bypassed when a Honda regulator conversion has been done. Is it the original regulator? Any other members correct me if I'm wrong.
It does sound like your regulator's on it's way out, I'd recommend doing the Honda conversion. To doublecheck, look at the "stator papers" under the garage section.
Sorry, duh, you've already read them. I'd still check and see if you have a factory regulator. Either way, I'd replace it with a Honda unit.
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Freddy
It does not have the original regulator, it appears to have already been replaced with a bigger one. The question is what to do with the two spare wires as they dont go with the regulator that is now fitted. p.s We have on and off, on our headlight switches . On doing the test for fault finding the only connected wires to the regulator read around 0.50V ?.
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txironhead
I'm not 100% about those two wires, but if you do a search on "Honda R/R" or "Honda Regulator conversion" they have the complete lowdown on it. If your regulator says Shindigen on it, it's probably a Honda, although some people have used Kawi and newer 'Zuki R/R's. As long as it has three yellow wires and at least one red and one green wire, you can use it. Also in the threads it has more on the headlight circuit. If I remember correctly, after a conversion there will be two wires not connected, and those get either capped off or eliminated. I just don't know what color those two wires will be on your particular model.
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Freddy
A friend has offered me a 1986 vfr700 regulator to try I will look at the wire configuration tomorrow.I'am also getting the battery load tested.
Thank's from down under .
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SqDancerLynn1
To clarify the third leg of the stator goes thru the harness to the light switch & back to the reg. Best way is to run the third leg direct to the reg eliminating the loop. Also add an extra ground from the reg direct to battery
So their are three yellow? wires on the reg and three stator wires they should be connected. It doesn't matter which is connected to which.Last edited by Guest; 11-21-2006, 06:35 PM.
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Freddy
Have eliminated the loop,fed it to the R/R. connected an extra earth. Had battery load tested and it was marginal (replace today). The thing that happens now is when I turn my headlight off there is a funny noise in or around the stator housing not a grinding more of a hum, this disappears when I turn the headlight back on?
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Freddy
Right I have put in a new battery and today put in a r/r from a Honda GB500. Started bike up 17 volts at battery. Checked wiring is in the correct places three yellow from stator to r/r,Red to red in loom from fuse box, black to tail light(live when lights are on) and green to earth. Still 17volts and climbing. Placed a new earth feed from battery to frame and low and behold volt's 13.8 at 3000rpm.
The thing is this bike a 1979 GS1000L came out with a regulator and a seperate rectifier. The previous owner replaced both with an all in one unit and connected the wires differently ( this may have been the cause of initial problem with charging). Now that I have put one in following the instructions listed on this web site I now have two spare wires from what looks like the old rectifier unit one green and white wire and a white and red. These have no current going through them and by looking at the wiring diagram they appear to be from the light switch unit. I went for a long ride today and everything is working nothing is getting hot , do I need these two wires??, I have installed a voltmeter just to keep an eye on everything and I have lost the noise from the stator.
Of note when I was putting the green earth on the r/r with the bike running it appeared to spark on the r/r is that also normal?. Any advise on the above would be greatly appreciated.
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