Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Crankshaft Cover Gasket

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    Crankshaft Cover Gasket

    It seems that the individual that gave me this GS650GLZ did not realize
    (or always left it on the center stand) that the crankshaft cover (the
    engine cover on the left side) has a pinhole in it from a previous lay-
    down. I have another cover coming, but I am wondering if I am going
    to need a gasket for it as well. I figure it is a paper gasket, so I
    am assuming that I will, but if any of you have any experience with
    this specific engine cover, I would appreciate the input. If 1 small piece of advise can keep me from having to buy a new gasket, then that's
    awesome. Thanks.

    #2
    Buy a new gasket. They're cheap. If the new cover doesn't have a good stator already installed you'll need an impact screw driver.
    The cover will still be held on after all the bolts are removed by the stator and flywheel. It's just a magnet so you will have to give it a good yank.
    Last edited by chef1366; 11-25-2006, 09:03 PM.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Definitely get a new gasket. Make sure the surfaces of the cover and cases are cleaned up good and just slap it on there. Tighten up your bolts from the center to the outside maybe and get the proper torque spec. Don't reef too hard.

      Also, use an impact wrench to get your bolts off.

      Comment


        #4
        If you are talking about the cover on the left hand end of the crankshaft, you are talking about the stator.
        Be aware there is wiring from there back to the regulator/rectifier, you will need to remove the gearshift and countershaft sprocket cover, also the starter motor cover(this is a biatch as the inner bolt is under the carbs near the camchain ternsioner) trace the wiring to the reg/rec disconnect it and pull it through when you remove the cover, which will need a good yank to get off as the stator rotor is a large magnet and holds it on pretty well.

        Dink

        Comment


          #5
          Be sure to inspect all of the wiring while your doing this, and make sure all of the connectors are clean. It'll save you the hassle of doing it all over again. Also, check for any burned/discolored areas on the stator.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Dink View Post
            If you are talking about the cover on the left hand end of the crankshaft, you are talking about the stator.
            Be aware there is wiring from there back to the regulator/rectifier, you will need to remove the gearshift and countershaft sprocket cover, also the starter motor cover(this is a biatch as the inner bolt is under the carbs near the camchain ternsioner) trace the wiring to the reg/rec disconnect it and pull it through when you remove the cover, which will need a good yank to get off as the stator rotor is a large magnet and holds it on pretty well.

            Dink
            Wow, I didn't realize this was such a complicated process. I figured I could just unscrew the cover and pull it off. I am at work at the moment, does anyone know if this priocess is outlined in the Clymers manual, or is Dink's description as good as it gets? I will go ahead and buy the gasket, just to play it safe. Should I replace the stator also out of prevention, or do some go bad and others live forever? Thanks for the great responses so far. You have been a great help.

            Comment


              #7
              Dink, Mark, Ironhead and I covered it. But Dink was WAY more detailed. Do you have a Clymer? It also will work as a good guide.
              (P.S) It really isn't complicated at all.
              Last edited by chef1366; 11-27-2006, 12:53 PM.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment


                #8
                Right, its not that hard. The hardest part was not understanding how much of a magnetic field is holding the cover on. I kept thinking that the cover was frozen on there when in fact it was just the magnetic field.

                Comment


                  #9
                  If you're concerned about the stator, use this link to test it:



                  If it tests okay and physically looks good, keep it. I'd recommend doing the Honda regulator modification (do a search, there's a lot of threads on the subject) to make it last a LOT longer.

                  Comment

                  Working...
                  X