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I met up with Sean over the weekend and tried out the 1980 850G he's got for sale. Both bikes have an issue or two but the biggest difference was in the 'smoothness', for lack of a better word, in the motors. I was expecting the 850G (I've never been on one before) to be just like my 1100G, just not as powerful. That bike had plenty of pep, and the engine seemed to run, well, better. His bike is stock, I've got a 4-1 exhaust and don't know if any P.O. ever rejetted the carbs. I suspect a carb synch would help greatly but I don't have the equipment or know how to synch the carbs myself, and my bike budget is tight. Should I just bite it and pay the local shop to do it? Tell me some before and after stories with getting YOUR carbs in synch to inspire me to just fork out the dough to get it done! BTW if anyone is interested in Sean's bike you should call him, with a little help it'd be just right!
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Keep in mind it's not only the cost of the synchronizer, but you might be looking at new jets, too. Whether you go with a Dynojet stage 1, 2 or 3 kit (with stock airbox you probably don't want a 3) or buying the jets individually, those little pieces of brass can be pricey. You might get by with just adjustments and raising the needle, etc. The washers to raise the needle are available at Radio Shack, I've heard.
You can probably snag a good synch off of Ebay for a decent price, or buy a new one for $40-50. Dennis Kirk sells one for $62, but you might need the 5mm adapters, too. Call some local shops and get an estimate, make sure you tell them you have an aftermarket exhaust, any other mods, etc., then compare that cost to buying a synch. Keep in mind that if you do buy a synch, you can tune it yourself if you ever decide to go with pods, a different exhaust, or just to keep your bike in tune over the years. -
Buy the equipment and learn to do it yourself, the initial cost will be recovered many times over compared to paying to have it done.
I myself had the equipment for a while and was a bit daunted about trying it. So much so I paid to have it done "professionally" and was very happy with the job that was done. 18 months later I finally worked up the courage to have a go myself, and felt I had been resoundingly ripped off by the shop that did it for me. It was that quick and easy, and I also have the advantage of optimising it to my liking rather than just getting what "they" consider best. If you look in this forum you will se a thread by an owner who has discovered that his bike likes to be synched at about 4000rpm, rather than the 1700ish "recommended" by manuals etc.
Dink
Do not forget that "everything else" has to be right before you synch the carbs, i.e. valve clearences, clean carbs,clean plugs, no intake or exhaust leaks etc.Comment
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It's easy as pie, and well worth the cost/effort.Comment
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Is this what I'm looking for? I'm sure there are lots of options. No doubt the shop would charge an hours labor ($60) at least. Sounds like I could do it myself with a little education on the subjest and the right tool.Comment
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Not sure if you need the 5mm or 6mm adapters but that's the one. I'm pretty sure you need 5mm, but doublecheck.Originally posted by bronzeback View PostComment
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There is a difference between synching your carbs and re-jetting. Before you do either you must make sure the valves are in adjustment and your timing is correct, both very easy to do. Synching the carbs is SO easy you will kick yourself for not doing it earlier and makes a hella difference in smoothness of the engine.
Rejetting takes a little more tough and requires you to listen for pinging under acceleration and normal duty, and being able to read sparkplugs, which is actually not that difficult. The hard part is taking the carbs on and off several times until you get the jetting right. The good news is that if the PO stayed with the stock airfilter and air box, chances are that you will probably not have to re-jet.
HapComment
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Every spring I replace the plugs (because they are cheap), clean the airfilter, check the intake boots for leaks, and finally resync the carbs. They are always just a little bit out but the throttle reponse is so much better after a resync. Vibration, engine wear, and other factors slowly take the carbs out of sync.1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutelyComment
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OK so I ordered the synch tool from Bike Bandit and read up on the procedure ( and valve adjustment) in my Clymers. Will I need other special tools ( for either procedure) ? I know you synch with the engine running but getting to the carbs requires tank removal...so is the idea to set the tank on a nearby table by the bike, or fashion an extended fuel line so you can run the bike with the tank off or something to that extent?Comment
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I got extra long fuel and vaccuum lines and set the tank on a higher surface next to my bike. Your other option is to rig up an auxillary tank with a large funnel or other container and hang that from the ceiling. But in that case you'll have to plug your vaccuum line.Originally posted by bronzeback View PostComment
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The screws on the throttle linkage are a pain to get to. Before you start the bike and have it running, practice getting on the screws and do a test run to see how it is going to go. The screws might be difficult to move if they have not been touched for a while so use wd-40 on them to loosen them up. You need an 8 millimeter socket to break the locknut loose. Sometimes there is paint on the screws to keep them from moving, I use nail polish to lock them when i am done. I have a long, flexible screwdriver that allows me to navigate around the linkage, with a magnetic tip to hold the bit.
When you put the taps into the intake boots don't overighten them, you'll damage the oring sealing the tap or damage the threads. I also spray a little carb cleaner around the taps when the engine is running to make sure there are no leaks.1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutelyComment
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Motion Pro and a few other companies sell special tools that make carb adjustments and valve adjustments easier. The carb tool is a long screwdriver with a socket around it so you can get the adjustments spot-on, and I believe the valve adjuster is similar with a box socket instead of a screwdriver inside a larger socket. Both should be available from Z1, Dennis Kirk, local stealership, etc.Comment
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I just soldered a brass nipple to the bottom of a campbells soup can that has two holes on the side near the top. In the holes, I run a coat hanger through to make a hook that will hang off of my handlebars. Hook up a piece of fuel line from the nipple to your carbs and presto.Originally posted by UncleMike View Post
Of course Uncle Mike's method works too; you can even skip the vacuum line and just set your petcock to prime.
-J16 KTM 1290 Super Duke GT with 175hp stock, no upgrades required...
13 Yamaha WR450 with FMF pipe, Baja Designs street legal kit
78 GS750E finely tuned with:
78 KZ1000 in pieces with:
Rust, new ignition, burnt valves and CLEAN carbs!
History book:
02 GSF1200S Bandit (it was awesome)
12 Aprilia Shiver 750
82 GS1100G
83 Kaw 440LTD
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So if I run a fuel line from the tank (off the bike), with the tank on prime should I plug the vacuum line?Comment
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