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My 79GS850 has the original clutch cable as far as I know
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There are basically only two things to consider
1- Cable routing. If you have kinks and twists, the cable will bind.
2-Full lubrication. Let oil drip through the cable until it runs out the other end, or use a nozzle that permits oil to be forced into the sheath.
If you want the most strength, keep the sheath and make your own cable, using galvanized aircraft wire/cable. !/16 inch cable will let you pick up the entire bike and shake it, which makes a good show for the women, and builds strong wrists.
Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'
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You're screwed now buddy!Originally posted by Boondocks View PostYeah, I know, I know! I will tempt fate again by revealing my good fortune.
Original R/R, stator, petcock, clutch, all cables including speedometer & tachometer, & seat cover. I don't even remember having to replace a headlight bulb, although I replaced one with a Osram Silverstar as an upgrade. Never had a flat on this bike (since 1980). I have some mostly new replacements in case I should need one.
I know you have lots of wood up there to knock on!1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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