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Jet sizes gs1000e

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    Jet sizes gs1000e

    Ok Ive got a 78 gs1000e With only a little over 5000 miles on it Garaged since 92.
    Vance&Hines 4-1
    Pod Filters
    Dyna S ignition

    I live in New England and Ride like a complete A**hole

    What are people running for JET's Main, pilot etc what about Needle clip and fuel mix , air screw settings?

    Blake

    #2
    I suggest a Dynojet jet kit.
    I suggest a VM o-ring kit from Robert Barr, a member here.
    I suggest new manifold o-rings while the carbs are off. Check manifolds too. I would replace the stock Phillips manifold screws with Allens and then you can apply some hi temp bearing grease to help the new o-rings last and torque to 6 ft/lb. Any tighter just flattens and shortens the o-rings service life.
    If no kit, buying separate jets...
    127.5 or 130 main jets.
    Jet needle e-clip in the bottom (5th) position on stock jet needles. Be sure to install the two plastic spacers in the same factory order.
    You may be able to use the stock #15 pilot jets if you richen the pilot fuel screws (underneath). Try 1 1/2 to 2 turns out initially. If no joy by the time the screws are about 3 turns out, then you need to go with a 17.5 pilot jet and return the screws to something close to factory...about 1 turn out. Do not seat these sharp tipped screws tightly, just seat them lightly.
    The side air screws are always adjusted by using the highest rpm method. Set them initially to 1 3/4 turns out and fine tune. Set the air screws after you've set the pilot fuel screws. Be careful because the air screws have a factory thread sealant that can make the screws difficult to turn. Use a good fitting tool or you may strip the heads off. If the screws are stuck, ask us first before forcing them.
    I would also check for correct float adjustment. The factory calls for a setting between .90 and .98", so .94" is right in the middle and allows for a bit of adjustment error.
    Be sure to remove the two float bowl vent lines at carbs 2 and 4 and leave the ports open to breath.
    You should then bench synch the carbs and follow that with a vacuum tool synch. Accurate plug reads depend on a good synch. A good vacuum synch depends on correct ignition timing, valve clearances set between .03 and .08mm and the air screws adjusted as I said first.
    Test/get plug reads at full throttle for the mains, 1/3 throttle for the jet needles, minimal throttle opening for the pilot jet. Do what the plugs/performance say. I believe my suggestions will get you close at least and maybe right the first time. Depends on filter brand and pipe quality.
    Be aware the bike must be ready/tuned correctly/clean carbs/etc, before you re-jet.
    And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
    Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

    Comment


      #3
      Jeez. Not even a thank you.
      Sometimes I wonder why I bother.
      And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
      Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

      Comment


        #4
        You da man Keith!!!!
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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