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    #16
    Originally posted by argonsagas View Post
    A simple extra step when cold....before touching the ignition, take the bike OFF the sidestand and keep it fully upright. Set the petcock to PRIme for a few seconds to be certain the bowls are full. Pull the choke ON fully and turn the key.

    There is always a temptation to touch the throttle....just a bit.......but this will almost certainly not help.
    You're right. Do not even put a hand on the throttle. Use the choke to regulate fuel and it should start right up.

    Earl
    Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

    I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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      #17
      Ahhhhh..... The old fill up cyls 3 and 4 fuel bowls before starting trick eh?

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        #18
        Originally posted by RobGS850L View Post
        Ahhhhh..... The old fill up cyls 3 and 4 fuel bowls before starting trick eh?
        It helps. ehehehehehehe :-)

        E.
        Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

        I would rather sit on a pumpkin and have it all to myself than be crowded on a velvet cushion. H.D.T.

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          #19
          i had starting problems just when it started getting cold this year,it started fine all summer. replaced the battery with a gel matt type ,problem solved, heck i started it day before yesterday and it was 28 degrees out. today 20 degrees and it fired right up, btw i think its colder in the shed where the bike is than outside, frickin metal sheds suck(lol)

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            #20
            Your cams will love warmer oil on a cold day. At least if it starts let it warm up at the lowest rpm that it will still run at as the cold start is hardest on camshaft lobes. The dipstick sure worked in Alaska on cars and trucks, but would have to be tested under observation the first time on a motorcycle I admit.

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              #21
              Originally posted by Road_Clam View Post
              I don't really know why my bike is so stubborn under 40F. It lites off fine, but simply won't idle at all, and quickly dies. I can't tell if its too much choke, and it's drowning the engine, or not enough choke..... I try all different choke positions, and generally after the 4th start-N-stall, it will stay running.
              I don't think there is such a thing as too much choke (unlike cowbell)
              Your bike will just idle higher and higher. It shouldn't stall.
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                #22
                Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                I don't think there is such a thing as too much choke (unlike cowbell)
                Your bike will just idle higher and higher. It shouldn't stall.

                I know this is very old, but I have to agree that the song needed more cow bell.

                I've had that SNL skit stuck in my head for some time now; perhaps too long.

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                  #23
                  *In best Chris Walken* I got a fevah, an the only presription, is morah cow bell! "

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                    #24
                    Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                    I don't think there is such a thing as too much choke (unlike cowbell)
                    Your bike will just idle higher and higher. It shouldn't stall.
                    There is something I don't understand. When you tune the pilot jet, you are basically adjusting the fuel-to air ratio to get the fastest idle. On stock CV carbs, the choke just opens up a circuit that adds more fuel. So why does that extra fuel make it idle higher when the engine is warmed up?

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                      #25
                      I may be completely off base, but i thought that was the AIR screw you adjusted anyway. On the VMs, which have two screws, the ones you tune most are the air screws. Letting more air in. Am i wrong?

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by p_s View Post
                        There is something I don't understand. When you tune the pilot jet, you are basically adjusting the fuel-to air ratio to get the fastest idle. On stock CV carbs, the choke just opens up a circuit that adds more fuel. So why does that extra fuel make it idle higher when the engine is warmed up?
                        Because it also mixes in a bit of air with that extra fuel. It's not as much air as it would get normally, so it richens the total mixture.


                        Chisenhallw,
                        All of the above information is correct, but they are all addressing the electrical side of the cumbustion triangle. You need three things for the engine to run: 1) an appropriate mixture of fuel and air, 2) sufficient compression, 3) ignition, usually in the form of a properly-timed spark.
                        We will assume for the moment that you have a correct fuel mixture.
                        If there are no electrical problem that prevents the spark, that only leaves one item.
                        When is the last time the valve clearance was checked? Cold starting issues are a classic symptom of tight valves, especially the intake valves. Tight valves will affect the timing of the valves closing, effectively losing some compression. This usually only affects starting when cold. When the engine is warm, parts expand just enough to change the clearances enough to bring valve closing into a more favorable time.

                        Bottom line, make sure the battery is good, clean and tighten all electrical connections and adjust your valves.

                        Let us know what fixed it.

                        .
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                        mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
                        hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
                        #1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
                        #2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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