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    Clutch cable

    I snapped my clutch cable today a mile from home...managed to limp into a 7-11 parking lot and really felt totally screwed. Getting out of the lot was going uphill and my starter wasn't strong enough to get me going, plus there was a 2-lane highway directly out of the lot with a light. I was pretty ****ed but fortunately some old Harley guy came out and pushed me going. We timed it just right and I flew through the intersection screaming in 1st. Blowing through red lights and stop signs I made it on home.

    So here's my question. This is the second clutch cable that has snapped on me in the past 2 years, one on my old KZ and this one. There doesn't seem to be anywhere it is rubbing but they both snapped at the same place, just after the handle. Is there something I can do to maintain the cable, like lube it up or something? What should I use? Is this as common for you guys as it is for me?

    Thanks

    #2
    Some lube on the ball end of the cable where it attaches to the lever is recommended (so the cable pivots instead of bending). I suppose some dry lube would be perfered but oil/grease will work as well.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

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    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      I use chain wax to lube my cables.
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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        #4
        ANY lubrication is better than none.

        Breaks at that point are the most common of all, and they do suggest that you need to check both the cable sheath and the mount. The likely reason for the breaks, as suggested, is that the cable is being bent at that point, which causes fatigue in the cable, and it fails.

        A simple rule to note is :


        The cable should draw smoothly and freely from pivot point to its opposite end, including the arc caused by moving the lever. No exceptions.
        Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'

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