Help! - no charge to Batt with new Stator, RR, batt.

[Scottyg]

I'm stumped. I have a '83 GS750ED that has been great to me until this flurry of charging problems (or single problem of not charging). I've gone through the stator papers and found myself replacing the stator, the Reg/Rect, and battery. That's great and all since now I have a completely new charging system, BUT it there is still no charge going to the battery.

This is what I've done since then: I've gone through the stator diagnostic page (that gsresource has so nicely put together - thanks), which everything test perfectly, as a new stator and RR should. I've also followed the red wire from the RR to the battery (which run through a fuse), which all is good.

That leaves me feeling stumped. Everything seems to check out, but am still not receiveing a charge to the battery.

Any help will be appriceated.

Thanks,
Scott.

[fgh]

What test did you use to determine your not getting a charge to the battery. Attaching a volt meter to the battery at idle you would get battery voltage. Rev it up to around 5K and the charge at the battery should be between 13.8 to 14.6. If you're not getting the increased voltage and your stator and R/R check out then you've got a problem elsewhere. I don't know then wiring harness that well so I can't tell you how the current gets to the battery. You'll need to determine where the voltage leaves the R/R, check it there and then follow the wiring checking it at each connection until you find the problem. I've got a Suzuki manual with the wiring diagram. I've sent the diagram to others. Let me know if you need a copy.

[nabrams]

When you say that everything checks out perfectly, I guess you must mean the static tests.
Have you done the "dynamic" (while running) tests:
1. Verified AC Voltage output while running (this is done with the R/R disconnected).
2. Verified actual voltage/amperage output from the R/R (NOT battery) while running. Amperage at 5000 RPM should be between 6-8 amps. Voltage between 13.5-14.9 volts DC.

If these check out OK, and your battery terminals don't show the appropriate voltage at 5000 RPM, then your R/R is not hooked up to your battery properly.

[earlfor]

I'm stumped. I have a '83 GS750ED that has been great to me until this flurry of charging problems (or single problem of not charging). I've gone through the stator papers and found myself replacing the stator, the Reg/Rect, and battery. That's great and all since now I have a completely new charging system, BUT it there is still no charge going to the battery.

This is what I've done since then: I've gone through the stator diagnostic page (that gsresource has so nicely put together - thanks), which everything test perfectly, as a new stator and RR should. I've also followed the red wire from the RR to the battery (which run through a fuse), which all is good.

That leaves me feeling stumped. Everything seems to check out, but am still not receiveing a charge to the battery.

Any help will be appriceated.

Thanks,
Scott.

Connect the R/R red wire (12 v DC+) directly to the battery positive terminal. Connect the R/R black wire (12 v DC -) directly to the battery negative terminal. Also, remove the ground wire that connects the battery negative to the transmission case under the carbs and clean both ends of the wire and the bolt/machine screw you removed from the transmission case. Reinstall when everyhing is cleaned up. If your stator and R/R are good and you have a good battery, all that can be wrong is the connections. Fuse blocks are notorious for looking good on the outside and being a box of sealed crud on the inside.

Earl

[Philly_Chris]

Is that bolt that goes into the case what is conducting the ground? Or is it solely the contact between the ring terminal and the transmission case?

The case I'm assuming isn't aluminum.

The reason I ask is I cleaned up the terminal and the contact point on the case, but had trouble getting at the underside of the bolt head.

[Killer2600]

Is that bolt that goes into the case what is conducting the ground? Or is it solely the contact between the ring terminal and the transmission case?

The case I'm assuming isn't aluminum.

The reason I ask is I cleaned up the terminal and the contact point on the case, but had trouble getting at the underside of the bolt head.

The contact between the ring and case is the important connection.

[twistedwankel]

Hopefully you saved all the original parts as they are probably ok. You can sell them on ebay.

Do you have a good earth? Are you totally sure your new parts are good?

If you are totally convinced everything works you probably have a bad "new" stator. Dada boom - it is AC 3 phase and not grounded.

Best of luck.

[chef1366]

I want to know his and your Ebay handles so I don't buy used up junk.:shock:

Did you replace the battery after doing all this work?

[txironhead]

If you connect the red wire directly to the battery MAKE SURE to put an inline fuse in it. Otherwise, if your regulator goes out and overcharges, the only thing between your butt and a small plastic bomb is your jeans and a seat.

Also, people here have bought a brand-new stator that didn't work.