To goop or not to goop...

[mark]

that brings up a good question, the manual does state to use sillicone sealer on the valve cover even with the rubber gasket. Is this not necessary? Sure is a pain and a mess doing that with sillicone.

In my experience its not necessary at all, at least on my bike. Stock gaskets torqued correctly work flawlessly.

I'll never use the stuff. The previous owner of my bike used it everywhere and I don't know how pieces didn't break off and clog an oil passage somewhere. Changing every gasket involved gingerly pulling pieces of silicone crap out of every nook and cranny and praying that a piece didn't fall in a hole or something.

Having said that, I've heard of folks who are REALLY good with it and know how to use it successfuly. But most people use way to much, or don't apply it evenly etc.

Stock gaskets torqued properly work great and silicone isn't needed. That's my experience.

[madjack57754]

Yamabond it's used for sealing 2 stroke engine cases . It's amazing stuff. If I don't use it, It's also amazing how much oil a nitro burning funnybike can push past the case seams under the pressure these motors generate. I have used it on streetbikes on the alternator covers. I always used to have problems with GS's weeping oil in this area. Not anymore. as the name implies it's from your local yamaha shop.

[Road_Clam]

I'm doing a rebuild on a 16v GS750ED engine and have heard varying lines on whether to put some kind of silicone between the block and the bottom and and likewise between the block and the head. The Suzuki manual that I have doesn't mention anything of the sort, but I sure don't want to get done with this and have a leaker.

So what's the real scoop from those in the know?

When I rebuilt the top end on my 1100 I mated the head and base gasket dry. I definately don't reccomend using liquid sealants on these types of gaskets. You need accurate torquing after assembly, and if you have used liquid sealants, you are not going to attain consistant torque readings. On all my extarnal cover gaskets, I do however use Yammabond sealant.

[Jethro]

When I rebuilt the top end on my 1100 I mated the head and base gasket dry. I definately don't reccomend using liquid sealants on these types of gaskets. You need accurate torquing after assembly, and if you have used liquid sealants, you are not going to attain consistant torque readings. On all my extarnal cover gaskets, I do however use Yammabond sealant.

I believe this is what the factory manual says to do. Dry on the base and head gaskets (which, if you buy Suzuki OEM- and you should- have a built in coating that seals with the heat of the engine) and Suzuki sealant on the valve cover. Now I haven't found Suzuki sealant, so I use the grey Permatex hylomar, and have heard nothing but praise for the Yammabond.

The stator cover does not need sealant, again the OEM gasket has a built in sealant that bonds with heat.

[jimcor]

Does anyone remember Indian Head Gasket Shellac? We used to use it on homemade gaskets cut from brown paper or thin cardboard. You can still get it from Permatex.

[argonsagas]

The stator cover does not need sealant, again the OEM gasket has a built in sealant that bonds with heat.

Good point. There is very little pressure inside this part of the engine, so a good torque job on a basic gasket will do nicely.

I have done it both ways, that is, with and without silicone, but also without using a Suzuki gasket: i made one out of thin cardboard.

In at least one instance on a clutch cover I used silicone and spread it very thin with a finger and let it dry, then bolted the part on. No leaks.