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Front Master Cylinder Rebuild Help.

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    Front Master Cylinder Rebuild Help.

    I need help w/ removing the piston on the front master cylinder for my 550. Any advice? I can't see how it will pull out. Is there one from any other model that I can replace it with?

    #2
    Their is a wire ring type C clip that holds the piston in Can be a "B" to get out. Need to find the end & pry it out -jewelers screwdriver ?

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      #3
      Originally posted by SqDancerLynn1 View Post
      Their is a wire ring type C clip that holds the piston in Can be a "B" to get out. Need to find the end & pry it out -jewelers screwdriver ?
      I see it. How in the "H" am I going to get that out? Once it's out how am I going to get the new one back in? I guess very carefully.

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        #4
        You can get something with a point and work it out of the groove its in. A real pain. I broke down and bought a Motion Pro Motorcycle Master Cylinder Snap Ring Pilar. Cost about $30.00,

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          #5
          MC Piston Removal

          I had a bear of a time removing the piston from the front MC of a '78 G750 that had sat for 25 years. I found two clips - the first was simply a wire spring that was rusted into a groove. After multiple soaks with penetrating oil, I was able to pry it out with a small screwdriver. Underneath that was a conventional circlip. For this I purchased the long-nose 90 degree circlip pliers from mikesxs.com. It wasn't easy but the pliers did work.
          Good luck!
          rickt
          '78 GS750
          '87 BMW K75C
          '82 BMW R65LS
          '75 Norton Commando
          '74 Triumph Trident

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            #6
            Getting the clip back in isn't as hard as it seems. Just push it down slowly and evenly and everything will be fine. Getting it out sucks. I couldn't find any circlip pliers long enough to reach the clip, so I had to fashion my own out of a a couple of pairs and some creative grinding.

            One bit of advice with rebuilding the M/C is to be sure to clean out the TEENY hole on the piston. I mean teeny, like I cleaned by pushing a metal twist tie through it teeny. It's easy to miss, and if left clogged will lead to a world of hurt and seizing brakes.

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              #7
              Originally posted by monkeywrench View Post
              I see it. How in the "H" am I going to get that out? Once it's out how am I going to get the new one back in? I guess very carefully.
              I tried for a week to get mine out. It's won't happen with the "pointy tools and prying method" I took mine to a dealer, and nicely bribed them with a dozen doughnuts to remove and install the piston.One of the tech's had the perfect pair of thin, extended length circlip pliers. It took him like 15 seconds?

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                #8
                I bought a set of KINCROME off the shelf circlip pliers that use the same set of handles and have various sets of tips.

                They are shown here: http://www.transquip.com.au/product....502&PARENT=155

                I managed to get them for AU$20 at my local hardware store!

                They are a 5 piece set and have 4 sets of tips.... bent, straight, rightangle, and flat.

                They were simple to use, and managed quite easily to remove and replace circlips and springs on my GS750B a couple of weeks back!

                The best part was that by getting a set like this I dont have multiple sets of bulky pliers taking up room in my toolboxes, also the price was great, and they worked a treat!

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                  #9
                  Grind down any cheap circlip pliers so they fit into the M/C piston area.
                  P.S. I borrowed the one that I used off a friend after messing with long needle nose pliers which do not work.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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                    #10
                    I tried for about an hour and a half to get the C clamp back in and failed. so I brought it to a dealer and the put it in for me for $10. I was worried that I would damage the new parts. Now I am back in business\\/ Thanks for all of the advice. Next time I will try to tackle it and get my own tool.

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