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Billy Ricks
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Nicholaschase29
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Nicholaschase29
Well, I got it the other day, The small gear that drives the dampner cable is stripped out. Also, the dampner cable is frozen... Above all, The shock does not really compress when i push on it. This is my main concern, because I could use parts from my shock on this one. I have the spring tension set to 1 and put it on the 1 dampner setting. (using my old cable and dial, and gear) I put a hand pump C clamp on it and squeeze. (one of those c clamps on a rail and you squeeze it multiple times to clamp it), it only moves about 1/2 inch and then stops. This is with alot of force too, as hard as I can squeeze. Do you think that if I put it on my bike that it will free up over time? The reason I do not use my old shock is if you look in the hole where the dampner cable connects, it is all rusted and gross in there, and does not move. Do you think that I could put like some diluted muratic acid in there? I'm not sure, but would assume that the rest of the mechanism is frozen up in the shock too, but I do not really know how these shocks work. The spring preload works great though.
Any thought would be appreciated,
Nick
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Kurtb5
I have the same problem, the cable is totally rusted out at the base of the shock. I have another setup but the bike was in a crash. Does anyone know what I have to do to replace the shock. ie. special tools and any danger if the shock is released.
Thx Kurt
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Billy Ricks
Nick,
It's common for the bottom end of the shock where the damping adjuster is to look like hell. The rust is from the pins used to move the adjuster. Just spray the area out with WD-40 and look closely inside the shock. You should be able to see 4 pins sticking out facing down inside the shock. You should be able to use a screwdriver to manually rotate that. Remove the rubber plug at the bottom of the shock and rotate the pins where the cable fits if it will move. Position one will show a red dot through the hole where the rubber plug was.
The shock you picked up looks decent. I wouldn't expect it to compress much just using your mass or a clamp. The spring is pretty stout and the damper is under about 250 lbs of nitrogen pressure normally. I'd at least mount it and see how it works. You can make manual damping adjustments if you need to. I'd probably just use postion 4 and forget about it.
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Billy Ricks
Originally posted by Kurtb5 View PostI have the same problem, the cable is totally rusted out at the base of the shock. I have another setup but the bike was in a crash. Does anyone know what I have to do to replace the shock. ie. special tools and any danger if the shock is released.
Thx Kurt
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oldschoolGS
If you are gonna keep the bike, spend the cash and get a WP shock.
I have one on my Bandit 1200, they are high quality, fully rebuildable, and will last decades if taken care of properly.
I am not sold on mounting a shock, especially one designed for a different bike, upside down. If I was gonna do a GSXR shock, I would do the swingarm also and mount it correctly. I plan to use a '92 GSXR750 arm for this exact reason and the ability to support a 4.5/160 rear combo.
Venus, I really like the Katana wheels.
Good Luck, Ed.
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED
1992 900SS
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Originally posted by oldschoolGS View PostIf you are gonna keep the bike, spend the cash and get a WP shock.
I have one on my Bandit 1200, they are high quality, fully rebuildable, and will last decades if taken care of properly.
I am not sold on mounting a shock, especially one designed for a different bike, upside down. If I was gonna do a GSXR shock, I would do the swingarm also and mount it correctly. I plan to use a '92 GSXR750 arm for this exact reason and the ability to support a 4.5/160 rear combo.
Venus, I really like the Katana wheels.
Good Luck, Ed.
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED
1992 900SS
The wheels will match by spring, my first experiance with radials, a BIG improvement. Looks better too.Dee Durant '83 750es (Overly molested...) '88 gl1500 (Yep, a wing...)
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