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    Wheel bearing replacement

    I just bought new front and rear wheel bearings, but I can't get any mechanical purchase on the inner surface of the current bearings to knock them out of the wheels. The wheels have a cylindrical spacer between the bearings that has the same inside diameter as the bearings, thus blocking my access to either the inner or outer bearing races.

    What to do?

    #2
    There's a specialty tool for doing this; it's inserted into the cavity and expands (sort of like an exhaust tubing expander); it's then driven with a hammer. I wouldn't want to even guess what these tools cost.

    Best bet? Probably having the dealership handle this one. I did, and it was about $25.
    and God said, "Let there be air compressors!"
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      #3
      Re: Wheel bearing replacement

      If you have a large hot air heat gun (the type used for paint stripping), they reach a temp of about 300 deg. That is sufficient to heat the aluminum around the bearing enough to gain an extra thou in clearance and you should be able to work the bearing out with a hooked pick while keeping the heat gun going around the aluminun. (it will not melt or distort the aluminum)

      Earl




      Originally posted by knelson
      I just bought new front and rear wheel bearings, but I can't get any mechanical purchase on the inner surface of the current bearings to knock them out of the wheels. The wheels have a cylindrical spacer between the bearings that has the same inside diameter as the bearings, thus blocking my access to either the inner or outer bearing races.

      What to do?
      All the robots copy robots.

      Komorebi-The light filtering through the trees.

      You are free to choose, but you are not free from the consequences of your choices.

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        #4
        The spacer can be pushed over enough to expose the edge of the bearing to get a purchase on it.
        Start with the left one.

        bill

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          #5
          I made my own tool from a steel rod. I ground a notch close to one end so that a little point of metal can slip into the gap between spacer and bearing. Hasn't failed me yet! I have also seen people use a motor mount bolt (8mm?) with the nut on backward. That nut's collar will slip into the gap, and these bolts are usually the right size and length.

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            #6
            A piece of steel rod or an old 3/8" socket extension will work. You just have to catch the edge of the bearing center and punch it out. Go around the bearing punching in different spots for the best results.

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              #7
              you can also grind the outer edge of the old bearing so that it is a loose fit and use the old bearinng to drive the new bearing into place

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