Rear brake pads

[GS750GUY]

Hey guys and gals. GS750Guy here again.

I need to replace the rear brake pads on my 1978 GS750EC and I'm in the process of researching pads before I make a purchase.

I notice in my research that there are several different brands and several types of brake pad materials available and it confusing me.

I have no idea what the difference is between pad materials and what is good, better, or even best for my bike.

Does anyone have any experience with this issue?

I appreciate your input on the subject plus where is the best place to buy.

Thanks again!! :?

Harold

[fgh]

From the Goldwing board

THE QUESTION:
boxerdad wrote:
I’m looking to replace my existing brake pads with higher performance pads. The calipers and master cylinders were rebuilt this past winter, and the brake lines were replaced with ss braided lines. I initially installed EBC organic pads but have close to 12K miles on them already. I’m going to replace the pads this winter when I flush out the brake system and replace the fluid with fresh.



Without starting a ****ing contest, can anyone comment on the use of sintered pads from DP vs EBC? The DP brand pads specify separate part numbers for front and rear while EBC /HH pads use the same part number for both front and rear. How will the 2 brands of sintered metal pads affect disc wear vs. stock pads? Is the stopping performance of these “sintered” pads worth the extra effort to do the research and install?



EBC says their pads don’t make dust?? DP makes no mention of dust. Does dust mean that the pads are wearing or that the disc is wearing - or both? What say ye all?

THE REPLY
Boxerdad, WELL!_ that is a difficult question to answer without knowing your riding style & stopping technique..

I run sintered aggressive metallic pads on my personal GL 1200 but it is taking a toll on my brake rotors as they are scoring up pretty good.. If you ride hard enough to take advantage of an aggressive type pad & don't mind the rotor wear then they are a godsend for REPEATED hard stops from 90+ mph.. Most pad suppliers don't recommend an aggressive brake pad on the rear brakes of a motorcycle as is is very easy to lock up the rear brake under hard stops, or on wet roads.. A locked up rear brake on a motorcycle is very dangerous as it should remain locked until the bike is slowed way down or you risk an instantaneous high side if the rear brake is released at speed..

If you are just a touring type rider or go easy on the brakes with not too many severe stops from very high speeds then an organic or Kevlar pad will work out just fine & will be a lot easier on the brake rotors..

I haven't ever seen them offered for the older GoldWings but I have been running Carbon brake pads on my Harley Electra Glide since they became available a few years ago.. In my estimation those pads are a great compromise between severe high speed stopping ability & easy on the rotors softer compound.. They also decreased my lever pressure for the same stopping power.. The only downside so far is increased black brake dust on the rims & brake calipers.. Still I would put them (SBS carbon) on my Honda in a minute if I could find a decent set..

Most brake dust is caused by brake pad wear.. ALL brake pads make some brake dust, some more than others.. Metallic brake pads can make a very caustic type of brake dust that will pit an aluminum wheel pretty fast around moisture or moist air if not kept washed off the wheel..

If you are just looking for a good long wearing pad with little rotor wear then an organic type pad is probably best for you.. The newer Kevlar compounds seem to be working out pretty good for most applications.. You can go to a little more aggressive compound but then you risk brake lock-up or difficult to modulate brake apply on wet or slippery roads..

If you are a high speed rider in heavy traffic, or make many stops from high speeds, or do a lot of track days, then you might be better off with a metallic pad with a little more aggressive compound..

I haven't done much research on the compounds available for the 1200 Wing but those same pads do fit a few higher performance bikes so there should be something available out there if you read between the lines & are willing to experiment..



Twisty








____________________
Only a motorcyclist knows why a dog rides with his head out the window!

[Mr. Jiggles]

Give Cyclebrakes a call (www.cyclebrakes.com). They'll be able to recommend a compound for you. Plus they're a great retailer.

Generally speaking, for the rear you don't want a pad with an especially aggressive bite. The fronts are a different matter.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

I've used EBC for a long time (rear/FA36). Their high performance organic compound material looks like the factory pads to me. Recommended for general street use. Braking is the same. Good wear. No galling, but my drilled rotors help eliminate galling anyway.
I just bought a new rear set for my '79 1000E. $28 at the local shop. Genuine Suzuki were $45. The price difference didn't matter a bit to me. I just see no reason to buy the genuine pads anymore.

[bwringer]

I, um, I just use whatever's in stock down at Cycle Outfitters or CRC2 when I need pads. Usually that's either EBC or Vesrah.

CRC2 sells the Vesrah pads, and I've been very happy with these. I'd say they have a tad more bite than the EBC pads, but life is as yet unknown.

It is possible to severely overthink this, and I think we crossed that line a while back. In street riding, even extremely aggressive street riding, the pad compound makes virtually no difference -- they all work, feel, and wear about the same, with very minor variations. On a track, pad compound can make some small difference, but it's still not incredibly important.

If you're using your brakes that hard on the street, you are doing a lot of things wrong and will likely die soon. Might want to read up on The Pace and note that there's little to no hard braking involved:

http://www.micapeak.com/info/thepace.html

Besides, you'll find that there's not much variety in available compounds to fit GS calipers. On more modern sportbikes, there are lots of choices, but very few for older streetbikes.