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Does this look "normal"
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Never seen that particular color of brown, however, depending on which oil was used, synthetic or dino and the rate at which it was changed, all lend themselves to the color in your crankcase and on the rods. I'd clean everything the very best that you can and when you get it back together, do frequent oil changes (every 1000 miles) for the first few thousand and you'll see the oil continue to stay lighter in color. I'ts not abnormal to have the oil change from near clear to brown in the sight glass on just a few short rides. It's fine.
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Hap Call
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35604
- Torrance, CA
The brown residue is varnish. Since there is not too much there I wouldn't be too worried.
While you have the cylinders apart you should check for wear in the bores. That black residue on the pistons, below the rings, indicates blow-by which is not good. You might be able to get away with a hone and new rings. See my sig: "To measure is to know".Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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mark
Looks excatly like mine and mine are normal and in good shape according to everyone I've checked with. I'm pretty sure my connecting rods have some sort of bronzed finish.
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courier11sec
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Originally posted by courier11sec View PostLooks like a Pennzoil engine.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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I was going to say "It looks like a Pennzoil engine", but Courier beat me to it. :shock:
You say "it's seen the last quart of Penniol"? Why? Because of the color? Not to worry.
As long as you don't get anything with the API "Energy Conserving" seal, there is nothing wrong with Pennzoil. I know there are differences between cars and bikes, but I have had 4 cars (including trucks and vans) in the last 25 years that have gone over 250,000 miles with nothing but Pennzoil 10w-40 in them. I have also put over 150,000 miles on various bikes with the same stuff. I have only recently changed over to what I am using in my bikes now, Shell Rotella Synthetic (in the blue jug).
I think it is much more important to choose a brand, stick with it as much as possible, and change oil and filter regularly. In my opinion (for what that's worth) it is not any particular brand of oil, but the constant mixing of the different additive packages in them, that causes sludge and other problems.
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mine: 2000 Honda GoldWing GL1500SE and 1980 GS850G'K' "Junior"
hers: 1982 GS850GL - "Angel" and 1969 Suzuki T250 Scrambler
#1 son: 1986 Yamaha Venture Royale 1300 and 1982 GS650GL "Rat Bagger"
#2 son: 1980 GS1000G
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Want a copy of my valve adjust spreadsheet for your 2-valve per cylinder engine? Send me an e-mail request (not a PM)
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JMHJ
Originally posted by Steve View PostI have had 4 cars (including trucks and vans) in the last 25 years that have gone over 250,000 miles with nothing but Pennzoil 10w-40 in them. I have also put over 150,000 miles on various bikes with the same stuff.
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madjack57754
Modern car formula oils have had the zink content reduced to protect the cats in the exhaust systems. DO NOT use car oils if you like the cams that are in your motor. The zink is an anti-wear agent and has been removed mainly because all modern pushrod car engines use roller cams and do not need as much anti wear compounds. The Shell Rotella is for Diesels and has extra zink to protect the big rig valve trains. Over the next couple of years the letter police(D.O.T & Epa) are making the heavy trucking industry switch over to roller cams and will begin phasing out the extra stuff in the truck oils.
A lot has been wrote about this is the engine rebuilder trade papers and like it or not it 's coming, so stock up now...or pay the price for motorcycle specific oils.
As for *****oil' if you have ever overhauled a car engine that has run for high mileage you would never run the stuff again. If I open one up for machining and find that garp inside I know that pretty much every tolerance will be so far out that it is just a throw away.
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I'm not knocking Pennziol, well, I guess I was, but that's not what I meant. I've used only AmsOil & Mobil 1 Synthetics for a few years in both cages & bikes, so I was really referring to the fact that I've never used a Pennziol product.
I haven't had an older bike either, is there any problem running 10w-40 synthetics in my GS?
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tfb
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Don't worry, I am new to this forum, but I have enough time on other bike forums to know; "never debate oil". My only concern was if the GS motor & tranny like synthetic or not..... if anyone answers, a simple thumbs up or down on synthetic in these motors will do....
This is a brown gunk in my motor thread...
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Mar 2006
- 35604
- Torrance, CA
Originally posted by dardoonk View PostDon't worry, I am new to this forum, but I have enough time on other bike forums to know; "never debate oil". My only concern was if the GS motor & tranny like synthetic or not..... if anyone answers, a simple thumbs up or down on synthetic in these motors will do....
This is a brown gunk in my motor thread...Ed
To measure is to know.
Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182
Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846
Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf
KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection
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