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    Progressive Spring Part # Question

    I have a 1981 GS1000GLX with the leading type front axle. I would like to change the springs and have been all over the parts suppliers and the correct part # appears to be 11-1107. The catalogs only show the standard model and the G model and I know that the standard G had the axle at the bottom of the fork and the L model had the leading axle. Has anybody with the L model used this spring to replace the original spring? I was going to change out the spring only since I have no seal issues or would I be better off taking the entire fork apart for cleaning. I have not done them before so any tips, comments or spacer suggestons would be appreciated. I would call my riding style passively aggressive and I am approx 180 lbs and use this bike for one up riding. Thanks for any suggestions. Tim
    82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
    81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
    83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
    06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" :eek: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
    AKA "Mr Awesome" ;)

    #2
    I just looked at the Progressive Suspension site and I think you are right...the 11-1107 springs are probably correct. The puzzling part is that there is only ONE GL listed in their product list, so it it hard to tell for sure, but I have Progressive springs in my Wing and my son's Venture Royale, and according to the directions that come with them, there is the option of a spacer to add with the fork springs. Different models (E, G, GL, etc.) might use a different spacer to adjust for fork length and preload. The easiest spacer is a fender washer that covers the spring and fits inside the fork tube, then a length of PVC pipe cut to the correct length. There are instructions that come with the springs that are specific to your bike and tell you what length spacer to use.

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    Comment


      #3
      You'll probably find your L model has 2 sets of springs a long and a short. The short one is about 2 inches or so long. Progressive instructs you not to use this short spring with the new springs, instead you'll need to make a spacer to compensate for the 'missing space'. PVC pipe works well, it's easily obtained and cut.

      Comment


        #4
        Would the two sets be the original long spring and the smaller rebound spring shown on the damper rod? I have the Suzuki service manual for my 83 and I am assuming the forks are similar if not the same. Have you changed the springs youself and / or taken them apart completely? It looks like it could be a PITA without the special tools noted in the service manual. Thanks Tim
        82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
        81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
        83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
        06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" :eek: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
        AKA "Mr Awesome" ;)

        Comment


          #5
          Hi

          I use these springs.
          Only 2 springs in the forks +spacers.
          They come with a piece of PVC tube to cut at right lenghts.You must also use the original spacers.(Prog. springs is shorter.)
          I am fat (100 KG)so I have PVC tube 1cm above forktop.
          Use no air in the forks.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by twr1776 View Post
            Would the two sets be the original long spring and the smaller rebound spring shown on the damper rod? I have the Suzuki service manual for my 83 and I am assuming the forks are similar if not the same. Have you changed the springs youself and / or taken them apart completely? It looks like it could be a PITA without the special tools noted in the service manual. Thanks Tim
            Use a jack or the equivalent to support the front end of the bike.

            All you must do is loosen the clamping bolts on the upper trees and open the plug/cap at the top of the fork tube. Springs pull right out the top with your fingers, just lower the bike to compress the forks to get to the springs. Flush old fluid. Put in new springs and fork oil, and spacers. Put the cap/plug back in, use a socket and a ratchet, be very, very careful not to crossthread anything, some effort may be required to do button the assembly up. Re torque clamping bolts. No special tools required

            Comment


              #7
              Thanks for the input, Einer, Jim, and Steve, it sounds like it should not be too difficult if I am careful. From the other posts I have read on the topic if I end up with approximately 25% of the total fork travel as the seated sag it should be good. I also am getting rid of the air as well. I do not want to count on the 25 year old seals. Thanks again for the help. I paid for the 1100 to get progressives installed this summer and I do not think the shop I took them to set them up properly so after I do these I will go back in to those to fix them. It is the usual if you want something done right do it yourself. I am hoping to make it to the Brown Co. ride this spring to meet my fellow GS lunatics. Thanks again, Tim
              82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
              81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
              83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
              06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" :eek: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
              AKA "Mr Awesome" ;)

              Comment

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