Needle Valve And Seat???

[tconroy]

dO YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THE NEEDLE VALVE AND SEAT OR WOULD JUST REPLACING THE O-RING DO THE TRICK?

[SqDancerLynn1]

MOST of the time just the O ring can be replaced

[chef1366]

Clean the needle and the filter screen with carb cleaner. You can dip the needle and seat in Berrymans. Without o-rings of course.

[SqDancerLynn1]

here's where to get the O rings
http://www.cycleorings.com

[tconroy]

Clean the needle and the filter screen with carb cleaner. You can dip the needle and seat in Berrymans. Without o-rings of course.

I have already ordered the o-rings,should be here in a couple of days.Now, where is the filter screen located.I have a clear fuel line and noticed the gas going half way down the line in a 12 hour period so it must be an o-ring.Also checked my crancase breather tube for blow by and it is bone dry.I also know that my petcock is working properly.I have looked at the diagrams on the carb rebuild page but never noticed a screen, chef. after a ride i have a couple of drops under the bike and its very clean gas.I would apreciate any advice you could give me.Im not a carb guru but I am willing to become one!Other than that the bike runs excellent!

[Dave8338]

I have already ordered the o-rings,should be here in a couple of days.Now, where is the filter screen located.I have a clear fuel line and noticed the gas going half way down the line in a 12 hour period so it must be an o-ring.Also checked my crancase breather tube for blow by and it is bone dry.I also know that my petcock is working properly.I have looked at the diagrams on the carb rebuild page but never noticed a screen, chef. after a ride i have a couple of drops under the bike and its very clean gas.I would apreciate any advice you could give me.Im not a carb guru but I am willing to become one!Other than that the bike runs excellent!

When you pull the float needle assembly out (remove the screw and the thin metal clip), it will be on the assembly itself. Original screens are domed. The aftermarket ones that I put in had flat screens in them. No real difference that I could tell.

[tconroy]

When you pull the float needle assembly out (remove the screw and the thin metal clip), it will be on the assembly itself. Original screens are domed. The aftermarket ones that I put in had flat screens in them. No real difference that I could tell.

Sounds good Dave Thanks.I hope all i need to do is replace the o-rings after dipping the needle valve and seat and spring.Would carb cleaner get the job done?I hate to buy the berrymans for just these.

[Dave8338]

Carb cleaner should do the trick, you may have to use the better part of a can do do the job right. Make sure that the preload spring/plunger in the center of the valve is free moving and has no spots where it sticks or hangs up. Alot of times, if these get gummed up, the needle won't seat until the float is too high allowing fuel to continue to fill the bowl and create a flood condition.

[tconroy]

Carb cleaner should do the trick, you may have to use the better part of a can do do the job right. Make sure that the preload spring/plunger in the center of the valve is free moving and has no spots where it sticks or hangs up. Alot of times, if these get gummed up, the needle won't seat until the float is too high allowing fuel to continue to fill the bowl and create a flood condition.

i just got my o-rings in the mail!!!!! Did you have to put anything on the o-rings or put them on dry?There is a spring in there? im going to try to take my carbs off tonight if i can clear my evening.

[Dave8338]

It's all self contained, nothing to come flying out at you. It is the little brass rod that the tang of the float presses on. It is designed as a limited spring loaded pressure to be applied to the seat. I've seen needles without this piece, however, they always have a Viton tip on them. No tricks to this process, on a difficulty scale of 1-10, it's about a 2.

[Dave8338]

Also, I put my o-rings in dry...

[tconroy]

Also, I put my o-rings in dry...

Thanks Dave,I got the carbs off and the airbox part that the flanges are in.It looks pretty oiley and gassy in there.It looks as though carb #3 is the main one cause of the pattern or path the gas was taking in the airbox.The carbs look fine . A liitle bit of residue on the butterflys and front of carbs as to be expected after 7000 miles.It runs good and idles good so Im not going all the way with them.The outside looks a little dirty.i dont think it would hurt anything to spray the outside bodies with carb and choke cleaner do you? i did this in the past and everything was alright.I just hope this is my problem.i dont see any other reason gas would enter the airbox. the valve cover breather hose is bone dry so that could'nt be it. Im also going to do away with my inline fuel filter.Thanks for the info. I'll let you know how it comes out.It is suppose to rain all weekend here so I have plenty of time to work on it.By the way,did the float pins come out pretty easy? Just tap on them with a punch?

[chef1366]

Brace the float post with a piece of wood or something. I use a small nail and tap gently. I grind down the end of the nail to rid the point.The float hinge post should come out one way so if you don't succeed on one side don't tap harder just try the other way.
If you have the carbs off and have the o-rings you should go the whole distance. Buy the Berrymans and split the carbs. You may need an impact screwdriver to get some of the phillip screws out. Don't do it half way. You won't regret it. I buy K&L rebuild kits from georgefix on ebay to replace the needle and seat. Thery also come with gaskets and new idle mixture needles. Don't use the jets though just dip your old ones in berrymans and use a wire to clean them Do NOT use the kits jets.

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

This is a good blow by blow on rebuilding your CV carbs. I used it the first time by printing it out in order. It has pictures and everything!
P.S If you do use the kits you'll have to make sure your float heigth is remeasured and adjusted because they will change with the new float needles and seats.
do you have a clymers or some kind of repair manual?

[tconroy]

Brace the float post with a piece of wood or something. I use a small nail and tap gently. I grind down the end of the nail to rid the point.The float hinge post should come out one way so if you don't succeed on one side don't tap harder just try the other way.
If you have the carbs off and have the o-rings you should go the whole distance. Buy the Berrymans and split the carbs. You may need an impact screwdriver to get some of the phillip screws out. Don't do it half way. You won't regret it. I buy K&L rebuild kits from georgefix on ebay to replace the needle and seat. Thery also come with gaskets and new idle mixture needles. Don't use the jets though just dip your old ones in berrymans and use a wire to clean them Do NOT use the kits jets.

http://www.thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

This is a good blow by blow on rebuilding your CV carbs. I used it the first time by printing it out in order. It has pictures and everything!
P.S If you do use the kits you'll have to make sure your float heigth is remeasured and adjusted because they will change with the new float needles and seats.
do you have a clymers or some kind of repair manual?

Ok chef I guess I will go for it.I already have the seat and needles out but can you soak the screen or do you have to take it off?If so how do you take it off?The o-rings are flat and the seat came right out on 2 of the carbs by hand.Just a wiggle or 2 and these where the ones a suspected were leaking.I did print out the entire rebuild section,all 53 pages!Wish me luck.

[chef1366]

You can soak the float needle seat with the screen on.
Good luck. Once done you'll see it really isn't a big deal and you will feel a warm fuzzy feeling inside the first time you start it. Do you have some kind of synchronizing tool?