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77-79 VM22SS Carb Help for newb's

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    77-79 VM22SS Carb Help for newb's

    So I've finally found jets that look like they will work for these carbs. Thanks to all the help from folks on here! I decided to bust out the calipers and start measuring up all the jet sizes(the wife keeps wondering why I smell of gas!). For all the newb's like me to this here's a quick reference;
    start http://www.motorcyclecarbs.com/index.cfm
    pilot jets

    air jet

    main jet

    an assortment of mains for the price of 4


    This is going off all the listed measurements so, PLEASE, if anyone sees an error CORRECT ME!!! The debit card is getting ready to take a hit!:-D

    #2
    Now, hopefully, it's just a question of what sizes to get!

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      #3
      Originally posted by jonesti View Post
      Now, hopefully, it's just a question of what sizes to get!
      What mods, if any?
      Stock mains for your model are 80 and the pilot 15, correct? Factory jet needle e-clip position 2 ...or 3?
      If re-jetting, be sure you do all basic tuning FIRST. Be sure compression is good, valve clearances set, carbs clean and good inner o-rings, floats set, good manifolds and manifold o-rings, clean filters, good spark and correct timing and fresh points/points gapped (if still points), all electrical connections checked/cleaned, clean petcock and clean gas cap venting...
      And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
      Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

      Comment


        #4
        Keith you are correct on the on the mains, pilot, and needle clip on 3rd position. I will be running pods, open 4 into 2 exhaust, with a Dyna S ign. I know a 4 into 1 would yield better gains but this is one of the few things I plan on doing were it's purely for looks. The bike is currently completely down to frame and an entire rebuild is in the works. I am at the moment getting ready to do a compression test but have heard that I will not get an accurate read with out the carbs and exhaust on. Any insight?? Next on the agenda are the valves. I have new manifolds and o-rings ordered. Thanks for all your informative posts. You are probably the main member on here thats gotten me this far!!!

        Comment


          #5
          Thanks for the kind words.
          I've never taken compression reads without the exhaust/filters on. I think the reads would be inaccurate.
          Sounds like you have some time before committing to jetting parts, but I'll help if I can later.
          You might want to try looking up jet kits from various makers and see what jets are/were in their kits, even if not available now. I can tell you that if you try to make the stock jet needles work, they will most likely only have a chance with the e-clip in the bottom (richest) position. But I've never jetted a 550 for the stock exhaust (correct?) with the mufflers removed. I'd still think the richest position though. With that exhaust choice you'll have a better chance of not needing the more tapered jet kit jet needles. I think the stock pilot jets will work with the help of richer pilot fuel screw adjustments. Remove the two float bowl vent lines of course and set the side air screws using the highest rpm method.
          That leaves just the main jets. If you get jet kit info, go with that, or if other 550 owners with the SAME mods chime in, you can consider their suggestions. If no help comes, I'd probably try 3 or 4 FULL sizes up (15 to 20) for the filters, and 1 or 1 1/2 sizes up (5 to 7.5) for the muffler removal. If correct, that total range would be 20 to 27.5 larger. So I'd probably try something in the middle, about 102.5 or 105 Mikuni mains. Remember this is just a guess as I have little experience in jetting with the stock pipes. Stock pipes and pods are not a good flow match and it makes guessing more difficult.
          While the engine is apart and if you are able to, I suggest checking the cam timing if you didn't think of it. Cam timing is very important. It can be "way off" direct from the factory as they set them to within an acceptable range that's not always optimum. If interested, try asking others or looking up stock cam info on your model. I'd think right around 108 degrees for both would be a nice compromise between torque and HP. Just a suggestion. Depends what you want out of the engine.
          And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
          Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

          Comment

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