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    Non-motorcycle engine question

    Sorry folks, I need some engine advice that someone here might know. Don't worry, I own a GS and worship it. The problem is that in New Hampshire, we have 3 feet of snow on the ground and a whole lot of icy, sanded roads. Needless to say, I have been snowmobiling this winter for the fist time ever. My buddy has loaned me the use of his 1996 Ski-Doo Mach 3 for the winter. Last week I had a major engine problem while on the trail. Tearing the engine apart I found that the crank bearings were totaled. The snowmobile shop wants about $550 for the replacement of the crank bearings (there are 3 large ones on the ends and 4 smaller ones in the middle). Apparently the bearings are about $50 ea. for the large ones, and $30 each for the smaller ones. I have found a bearing house that can get me the same bearings for a fraction of the cost. Problem is that the snowmobile shop will not replace them with anything other than the stock units (rip-off artists). I have called about 5 engine shops that refuse to work on a snowmobile crank- even though it is out of the engine! Is it that much of a big deal to pull the crank apart and replace some bearings that I am suppling? I figure that it should be similar to any other crank- why do these people refuse to work on snowmobile cranks? Does anyone know of anyplace in New England that works on cranks and may look at it? Thanks.
    Currently bikeless
    '81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
    '06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."

    I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.

    "Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt

    #2
    Is it that they won't work on snowmobile engine cranks, or that they won't work on your crank because you're supplying the parts? By supplying the parts, you're cutting into their profit margin, since they profit on both parts and labor. Some repair shops raise their labor rate to compensate when a customer supplies parts, some do the work reluctantly at their standard labor rate, others simply refuse to do such work. If the shop guarantees its work, they may refuse to use your parts because they don't know the source/quality of the parts, and so don't want to risk the possibility of inferior parts leading to early failure. I suspect the real issue is you supplying the parts, not that it's a snowmobile engine crank.

    Parallel situation: would you take your own food to your favorite restaurant and ask them to prepare it for you?

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by lberkhei
      Parallel situation: would you take your own food to your favorite restaurant and ask them to prepare it for you?
      It's not the same. There is a rip-off shop here in town that does front end work. If you take your Moog parts(which they use), and ask them to install them, they will charge you more. They just want to gough you for the parts. I won't say their name, but it rhymes with "Myerstone". The shop I deal with doesn't do that, in fact they give me a break because I am a loyal customer. I don't bring my own parts in because like I said, they give me a break so it's not really worth my while. 8)

      I think the shop just wants to cover it's collective ass by only putting in original (or better) parts so they can stand behind their work.
      Kevin
      E-Bay: gsmcyclenut
      "Communism doesn't work because people like to own stuff." Frank Zappa

      1978 GS750(x2 "projects"), 1983 GS1100ED (slowly becoming a parts bike), 1982 GS1100EZ,
      Now joined the 21st century, 2013 Yamaha XTZ1200 Super Tenere.

      Comment


        #4
        Myerstone! is also rip off artist here in my town

        Comment


          #5
          Is it that they won't work on snowmobile engine cranks, or that they won't work on your crank because you're supplying the parts?
          No, I honestly don't think it's that at all, because I have told them all they can supply the parts if they must. The problem everyone has is that they need to seperate the crank and pull the crank arms off (they are pressed on, right?) and no one is willing to do this. Are snowmobile cranks different than cars and motorcycles and every other motor in the world? Don't they all need to be pulled apart to replace bearings or crank arms? I don't see why this is so much trouble??? It seems any good machine shop should be able to pull the thing apart.
          Currently bikeless
          '81 GS 1100EX - "Peace, by superior fire power."
          '06 FZ1000 - "What we are dealing with here, is a COMPLETE lack of respect for the law."

          I ride, therefore I am.... constantly buying new tires.

          "Tell me what kind of an accident you are going to have, and I will tell you which helmet to wear." - Harry Hurt

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Jethro
            Is it that they won't work on snowmobile engine cranks, or that they won't work on your crank because you're supplying the parts?
            No, I honestly don't think it's that at all, because I have told them all they can supply the parts if they must. The problem everyone has is that they need to seperate the crank and pull the crank arms off (they are pressed on, right?) and no one is willing to do this. Are snowmobile cranks different than cars and motorcycles and every other motor in the world? Don't they all need to be pulled apart to replace bearings or crank arms? I don't see why this is so much trouble??? It seems any good machine shop should be able to pull the thing apart.
            One would think so. :?
            Kevin
            E-Bay: gsmcyclenut
            "Communism doesn't work because people like to own stuff." Frank Zappa

            1978 GS750(x2 "projects"), 1983 GS1100ED (slowly becoming a parts bike), 1982 GS1100EZ,
            Now joined the 21st century, 2013 Yamaha XTZ1200 Super Tenere.

            Comment


              #7
              Automotive cranks are all ONE piece and use a two piece plain bearing,, automotive rods are also bolted on the cap end for assembly and brg replacement. Most Motorcycle cranks are made up of several pieces that come apart for brg and rod replacement and MUST be properly aligned when reassembled. I would pay the extra money for the assurance that if anything happened the shop would not be able to blame your brgs for a failure

              Comment


                #8
                Let me throw in my two cents on this. I'm taking neither side. Sure the shop wants to use their own bearings to get the profit margin on parts. But using a past experience of my own, I believe that if the shop has to warranty their work, they want to use a part (bearing) that they know is at least up to the manufacturers specs. The aftermarket bearing may be better but they have no way to tell. Say they take your bearings, install them on the crank and out the door you go. Motor is back together and on your first ride, a bearing lets loose. What do you do? Who's at fault? I guess it would be all right if a shop said that they'd install your bearings on the crank for labor alone, but no warranty. If you agree to that, then I don't see a problem.
                1982 GS1100GLZ Sold but still loved
                2008 Bandit 1250 Crashed (cager on a cell phone)
                2008 Bandit 1250 #2

                Comment


                  #9
                  There is a lot more to it than pressing the crankshaft apart, puting the new bearings on, & pressing it back together. For a shop to do it correctly, they must be set up to align everything back exactly right, not just close. The pins must be seated exactly the proper depth, at exactly the proper angles. I would suggest Falicon, or some of the other shops that specialize in motorcycle cranks. They know what they are doing, not just playing it by ear.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by rphillips
                    There is a lot more to it than pressing the crankshaft apart, puting the new bearings on, & pressing it back together. For a shop to do it correctly, they must be set up to align everything back exactly right, not just close. The pins must be seated exactly the proper depth, at exactly the proper angles. I would suggest Falicon, or some of the other shops that specialize in motorcycle cranks. They know what they are doing, not just playing it by ear.
                    I agree with rphillips on this. Throw alignment is critical. Call Falicon and get a quote from them. They are considered the best in the business.

                    Hap

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