1980 GS 1000 - I'm in over my head

[madjack57754]

An Anoka kid here, stuck out in the black hills. One of my favorite places for parts is Sport Wheels in Jordan. Give them a call or check them out on the web at www.sportwheels.com to see what a complete rack of carbs will cost

[Roadrash 1000]

Mad Jack your right Sport Wheels is the best place to go. So my story gets worse and remember I like to ride not fix. The old man was running short on time so he had to pass for this week. Another friend of mine came over and said the relay was good and put it back in. I cleaned the fuss box area like Chef1366 said. I only had power to the top 2 using the light up meter. I got a magnifying glass out and and read the fuses wrong. I thought it said 15,10,10,15,25 plus I put it back wrong without grounding it. I turned the key on and the bike tuned over by hitting the starter button, I then checked for spark at the plug and that was good so I was like WOW. Then I looked over at the fuse box and it was smoking, so I shut it down right away. I found on this site it was supposed to be 15,10,10,10,10. I changed them around and tried it again with starting fluid. Got it to rumble the first time but my headlights went out and my fuse box was smoking. I know guys its ME not the bike. So I found the ground problem and now the fusebox doesn't smoke, ha ha. But its like when I first started now. All five fuses are good at both ends,the dash lights up,head light comes on, I hit the start button, and all I get is a click at the relay. just like before. I knew the starter worked so it had to be between the starter and the relay. Sure enough there at one of the connections it got hot. I tried to unplug it but the plastic protector is melted on sort of. My question is by having a friend change the connectors will it work or did I fry out the whole wiring. Sorry this was so long I just wanted to explain what I did.

[chef1366]

You should pop a fuse before smoking the fuse box. You have a major short somewhere. Trace it from the melted wire.

[tconroy]

Be patient and plan on working on it a lot.Enjoy the doing part and you will enjoy the done part a lot more, and will have learned a lot about your bike.Good Luck!

[Roadrash 1000]

I'm trying to be patient but I've had the bike for almost 2 weeks now and I'm still where I started maybe worse. ha ha So I looked again at the bad/burnt connection. One end leads to the starter and the other went to a box with fins mounted under the battery box. Anybody know what that part is called and a way to test it? I know the starter works. Thanks again for everyones help.

[tconroy]

I'm trying to be patient but I've had the bike for almost 2 weeks now and I'm still where I started maybe worse. ha ha So I looked again at the bad/burnt connection. One end leads to the starter and the other went to a box with fins mounted under the battery box. Anybody know what that part is called and a way to test it? I know the starter works. Thanks again for everyones help.

I think That is your regulator/rectifer,you are talking about and a new one runs about 70 bucks from www.z1enterprises.com have you ordered a manual for it yet?Go to www.motorbooksstore.com and see how much they want for one.Thats were I got mine.Also www.bikebandit.com is a good parts fiche to look at to identify parts when you dont know what they are.You are making progress though,You working on it and learning!

[Roadrash 1000]

Thanks tconroy for the help. I got a CD of ebay with 400 pages on it but it gives me a head ache. So is my part shot? There is a huge motorcycle graveyard by my house. Would you stay away from a used one? I don't care about the cost, $70 is cheap but I could have the used part in hand tomorrow.

[tconroy]

Thanks tconroy for the help. I got a CD of ebay with 400 pages on it but it gives me a head ache. So is my part shot? There is a huge motorcycle graveyard by my house. Would you stay away from a used one? I don't care about the cost, $70 is cheap but I could have the used part in hand tomorrow.

If cost is no problem I would go with new.You might wind up with the same problem down the road if you purchase used. Is your part shot? You will have to test it first to get that answer.When mine was going bad it just drained a little water out of my battery every week.Go to the front of this sight and look at the (in the garage) link that tells how to test the electricals.There is a way of testing the r/r but you should also test your stator.Also clean all your electrical contacts too.You need good connections everywhere.

[bonanzadave]

Looks like he throwing in the towel

Hey John,

I would never call someone a quitter and I understand these old bikes can be a handfull sometimes. I totally respect your decision to go looking for a different Bike. That ol GS has already added to your knowledge database cause I bet when you find a new one Youll be going on an extended test ride and now you have a little more insight on what to look for and ask about on a used bike. Good luck and I hope you find the right bike. This time of year can be a chance to find a great deal but without that ol GS running it may be a little difficult to unload. Hope to see ya on the road.

http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/mcy/261785686.html

[nabrams]

For testing purposes, you can and should run the bike without the charging system attached for several hours on a fully charged battery (see other posts about this). The fact that you didn't know what that box was indicates you need to study up quite a bit more about your bike's electrical system. Running with a just the ignition components enabled will eliminate the other circuits that may be shorting. You say you've had the bike for 2 years. Investing another 20-40 hours is worth it at this point. Finding the short should take no more than 10 hours even for someone who needs to learn the electrical system using a wiring diagram. Keep at it!

[Road_Clam]

Hey Dave,The old man is supercool. We talk and email everyday. He lives a good hour and a half from my house. He said he could swing by on Wed. before he leaves town. I only paid $600 for the bike so I feel bad. He is really into bikes and wants to know whats wrong with it as much as I do. He said anytime I want to bring it back he'll give me a refund. Hats off to the old man.

Your initial experiences are all to familiar to a 25 year old bike. The #1 troublesome issue is dirt and rust in the carbs. 90% of new GS'ers, carb issues is their 1st question. 2nd issue isusually electrical related. Sounds to me like you are very green at mechanics? We will help as best we can, but keep in mind we are trying to interpet your issue through your description, Try to find a local knowledagble person and bribe him to the max to help you at least get the basics of a GS. PICS are an awesome tool to help with your questions also!

[Roadrash 1000]

Dave you are on the ball. The old man said that if I wanted to return it I needed to stop messing with it. He is afraid that I will do more harm than good, and he is right. ha ha He also said he would get it running for $100 plus parts. What a deal. The old guy is rich and leaves for vacation again soon. I hate to dump it back on him, mess around and make him work on it. I would like to get it going but I'm just not the guy to do it. The regulator/rectifier smokes when the key is left on. And a connection is burnt. I haven't even got to the carbs yet. The petcock gave me problems th first day, the list just goes on. I love to ride. I grew up in Japan as a kid and rode alot of bikes. I'm the kind of guy who doesn't even check the oil. ha ha But Dave is right. I am a differnt guy now and I know more, so I am lucky for that. The next bike will have to run and I'll have alot more questions. At least we got some snow so I can ride the snowmobile!!!

[Roadrash 1000]

I only had the bike for 2 weeks not 2 years. If I had it that long and still had problems I'd pitch it in the lake. I emailed the old man this morning and told him I'd better bring it back. The key here is patients and I have run out. Yes I am very green when it comes to fixing. Thanks guys for trying to help me. I felt better with people behind me. If I get a GS I'll be back. John

[themess]

I'm trying to be patient but I've had the bike for almost 2 weeks now and I'm still where I started maybe worse. ha ha So I looked again at the bad/burnt connection. One end leads to the starter and the other went to a box with fins mounted under the battery box. Anybody know what that part is called and a way to test it? I know the starter works. Thanks again for everyones help.

You aren't worse, because you've learned a lot.

Patience is necessary when learning to repair anything. It helps if you can treat it as a puzzle that is fun to figure out. However, if the old man will actually get it running for $100 plus parts, that would be a great deal. Strike a deal with him in which he does it while you watch and learn. Even if it is a 3 hour round trip and you have to make it several weekends in a row, it will be worth it.

Most petcocks can be repaired using a kit that replaces the rubber parts. The kit costs $20 and installation takes an hour. If gas is leaking from the tank, that or replacing gas lines will likely fix it. The special rubber tubing used for gas lines is available at any auto parts store. This site has instructions for rebuilding carburetors. Don't spend $140 each.

A 1980 GS1000G, properly cared for, will last a good 100,000 miles. Don't get impatient or scared.

[salty_monk]

Talking of dirt & rust in the carbs is it a good idea to put a cheap disposable fuel filter in the fuel line? (asking for myself as much as you, sorry!!)

Dan