'82 GS1100GLZ charging problems

[Guest]

I recently bought an '82 GS1100GLZ 17,500 miles. I put in a new battery(1 yr old one in bike was toast) got it running and found it was not charging. I tested the stator per the Chilton's manual which said all three legs should read above 74 volts mine read 90+. I replaced the voltage regulator with a new Rick's universal replacement. After this, the battery was charging at 16.5 volts from just above idle , checked with 2 different voltmeters. Can anyone shed some light? I don't want to boil batteries up. Now ,I did find in the manual in the back ,updates for 82 on bikes. Which stated that 82 up models had different internals in the voltage regulator, but the one I got was exactly the same as the one in it except the replacement did not have a "factory" type plug, so I spliced it in.

[argonsagas]

You are correct about the boiling concerns. You should never see voltage readings above 15. You need a replacement R/R.


Rick's offers a good guarantee.

Contact them and explain what has happened.

[sabreman-v65]

I guess my concern is if the regulator I put in is indeed different internally than the original, I've tried one fom another bike and got the same 16+ volt result. Usually electronics are not guaranteed, or exchanged for a different part number. Does anyone have Rick's phone number or address?

[82Shafty]

It definitely sounds like the reg. This also sounds like a case where a universal part can haunt you.

What color is your bike?

[sabreman-v65]

Time to dig in the wallet again. Black and burgundy with gold pinstripes.

[GS1100GLMLA]

Sabreman,

I have an 82 GS1100GLZ with the same colorings as yours and had to replace my regulator/rectifier. I replaced it with the Electrex brand and it works fine. I also bought 3 Honda regulator/rectifiers off ebay and retrofitted them to fit my 1100 just in case my new one ever goes out. You can buy the rs232 honda regulator off ebay and splice new connectors on for alot cheaper than Ricks or Electrex. I'll even sell you one of mine if your interested.

[sabreman-v65]

Have you tested the Honda regulators? I tested with a Kawasaki EX500 one and got the same 16+ volt result, the one on the bike was inoperable, but must have been replaced as well ( wrong mounting screws ). I wonder if my stator is just way too powerful?

[sabreman-v65]

What model Honda does that regulator come on?

[GS1100GLMLA]

I did the stator papers test on the Honda regulators and it checked out. I haven't put one on yet but I can do that rather easily. Did you go through the stator papers and verify everything with your stator and voltage regulator/rectifier? I ended up replacing both my stator and regulator/rectifier and then bought me a new battery. Now it runs great. I get a max charge of 14 to 14.2 volts. Verify that all your wiring is fine and your connectors are fastened securely and clean.

[GS1100GLMLA]

Do a search for "Honda R/R" and you will find all the answers to your questions. A number of Honda motorcycles will work. The popular Honda Regulator/Rectifer is the SH232-12. But there are many others of late 1970's Hondas that will work also. As long as they have 3 yellow wires and at least one red wire and at least one green wire. Most Honda r/r's will also have a black wire that needs to go to 12 volts when the ignition is on.

[sabreman-v65]

I went back through the Stator Papers, everything checked out fine. I cleaned every connection on the bike and made sure I have a very good ground. My efforts were rewarded(sarcasm) with 16.5v at idle and 17.5v above 2000rpm. Any ideas??? these are similar results with two different regulators.

[GS1100GLMLA]

Sabreman,

When the voltage is not within specifications,(over 14.4 volts or under 13.5v) it is usually your rectifier/regulator. The regulator regulates the voltage to the battery being supplied by the stator. If it is a over voltage condition like yours it is more than likely the regulator. In the stator tests on the Stator papers IV problem solving. All the tests you did following through the problem solving chart, did they all test fine? None were out of spec.? I still under the assumption that it is your rectifier/regulator. You may have to get a third one that you no worked before and hook it up to see if that solves your problem.