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    Clutch Slip

    Seem to be getting a bit on the GS1000G but only when I nail it say in 2nd or 3rd (over 5,000 rpm, it's fine till it gets there slips from maybe 5k to 7k then fine again). Today I got some when I nailed it in 3rd up a hill to get in front of some traffic (I probably should have been in 2nd so more stress on the clutch).

    The clutch works pretty good otherwise & seems to be in pretty good adjustment (as to what the manual says about the lever anyway). Is this a clue that it's on it's way out or just out of adjustment?? Any tests I can do or adjustments I can make to see if it makes a difference?

    Normal driving it's fine, it stalls if I don't give it enough beans pulling away never slips unless I really nail it (doesn't do it every time either). High revs built up more gradually are not a problem.

    I changed oil recently GTX 10-40w but I got this before that although it has made the gear change a bit slicker.

    Dan
    1980 GS1000G - Sold
    1978 GS1000E - Finished!
    1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
    1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
    2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
    1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
    2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

    www.parasiticsanalytics.com

    TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

    #2
    New clutch disc's and springs should do ya up fine. It's about a 1.5 hr job with the most time spent scrapping the old gasket off.
    1980 Gs550e....Not stock... :)

    Comment


      #3
      Dunno about the thou's but the 1100's tend to do it when they are cold but settle down when up to normal operating temp.

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by salty_monk View Post
        Seem to be getting a bit on the GS1000G but only when I nail it say in 2nd or 3rd (over 5,000 rpm, it's fine till it gets there slips from maybe 5k to 7k then fine again). Today I got some when I nailed it in 3rd up a hill to get in front of some traffic (I probably should have been in 2nd so more stress on the clutch).

        The clutch works pretty good otherwise & seems to be in pretty good adjustment (as to what the manual says about the lever anyway). Is this a clue that it's on it's way out or just out of adjustment?? Any tests I can do or adjustments I can make to see if it makes a difference?

        Normal driving it's fine, it stalls if I don't give it enough beans pulling away never slips unless I really nail it (doesn't do it every time either). High revs built up more gradually are not a problem.

        I changed oil recently GTX 10-40w but I got this before that although it has made the gear change a bit slicker.

        Dan
        My 1100 did almost the same behavior. Mine ended up being worn out clutch springs. It's very common for 25 year old clutch springs to become "laxed" meaning they loose some of their free hight as compared to new. Slap in a new set of springs, and I am willing to bet you are good to go

        Comment


          #5
          Over the last few years I have had both a 750 and an 1100 with clutch slippage. On one bike I replaced just the springs on the other I replaced the discs and the springs. I found replacing the springs to be an equally thorough repair and less troublesome than replacing discs and springs. Needless to say replacing just the springs was quite a bit cheaper.

          Comment


            #6
            Add me to the list of spring enthusiasts...

            The clutch plates last dang near forever. Order up a clutch cover gasket and six OEM springs, and you'll be back on the road and happy about 20 minutes after they arrive.

            I've checked several pairs of original GS clutch springs, and they've all been sagged far below the use limits in the manual after being squashed for 25 years. Heavy-duty springs are not necessary -- just new ones.
            1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
            2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
            2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
            Eat more venison.

            Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.

            Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.

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            Co-host of "The Riding Obsession" sport-touring motorcycling podcast at tro.bike!

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by bwringer View Post
              Add me to the list of spring enthusiasts...

              The clutch plates last dang near forever. Order up a clutch cover gasket and six OEM springs, and you'll be back on the road and happy about 20 minutes after they arrive.

              I've checked several pairs of original GS clutch springs, and they've all been sagged far below the use limits in the manual after being squashed for 25 years. Heavy-duty springs are not necessary -- just new ones.
              When I compared the free height of new OE springs, vs. 25 year old springs there was a difference of .250". In hindsight, I didn't need to replace my drive plates either, but I already had bought a set of Barnett plates, so I just put them in anyway. Some FYI, I also needed to replace the large bronze thrust washer behind the clutch basket, the washer was worn down in thickness about .019" compared to the new one, which caused my clutch basket to have excessive wobble.
              Last edited by Guest; 01-09-2007, 10:52 AM.

              Comment


                #8
                Thanks for the info sounds like new springs are in order at next oil change.

                When I'm in there is there an easy way to check the plates to see their condition?? (with a car you can check how close it is to the rivet heads for example).

                Will the thrust washer be easily visible at this point too? I have a set of digital vernier so measuring heights etc should not be a problem.

                Cheers,

                Dan
                1980 GS1000G - Sold
                1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                Comment


                  #9
                  Check the lower clutch adjustment too...

                  I think on your bike there is a lower adjustment??

                  Maybe not on the 1000...

                  If there is and if it is a bit tight it will cause slippage and eventually wear out the plates.
                  http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                  Life is too short to ride an L.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    you could take out one clutch disk and check its width with a caliper. Check your owners manual for the correct spec for the disk

                    Comment


                      #11
                      You don't even have to drain your oil. I just put the bike on the side stand and you'll only drip a few drops.
                      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Ok, maybe it'll get done a bit sooner then... Bikebandit.com for OE springs??

                        Dan
                        1980 GS1000G - Sold
                        1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                        1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                        1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                        2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                        1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                        2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                        www.parasiticsanalytics.com

                        TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I like Dennis Kirk and I use these guys alot http://www.mrcycles.com/
                          Never delt with Bikebandit(use their micro fiche ALOT though)
                          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by bwringer View Post
                            Add me to the list of spring enthusiasts...

                            The clutch plates last dang near forever. Order up a clutch cover gasket and six OEM springs, and you'll be back on the road and happy about 20 minutes after they arrive.

                            I've checked several pairs of original GS clutch springs, and they've all been sagged far below the use limits in the manual after being squashed for 25 years. Heavy-duty springs are not necessary -- just new ones.
                            20 mins eh? Sounds good to me.

                            Pardon my asking, but I've just started to work on bikes recently:
                            Would I need to set the timing up again after changing the springs in my clutch?

                            Thanks,
                            Arf

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Arfdog View Post
                              20 mins eh? Sounds good to me.

                              Pardon my asking, but I've just started to work on bikes recently:
                              Would I need to set the timing up again after changing the springs in my clutch?

                              Thanks,
                              Arf
                              No you wont.

                              Dink

                              Comment

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