Shaftie motor into a GS1000E?

[Tom MLC]

What would be the opinions or advice about installing a motor from a '80 GS1000G into a '78 GS1000E? I would prefer to keep the bike a chain drive, I think. So certainly the tranny on the shaftie motor would need to be replaced. How tough is the tranny swap? I have talented wrenches, so I'm not concerned by the labor involved. Unless major modifications are required.

Reasons for the swap? The '80 motor has 27k total miles, with less than 3k on a 1190 punch out. The whole bike is up for sale, and I'm gonna take a look this weekend. Cosmetically, she's not so hot. But my thoughts are to put that motor in my hot rod, and maybe make some money back on the parts.

[Big T]

I don't think you can swap the transmission, as the cases are different for shaft drive.

I think you'd have to strip both motors and put all the good stuff on the 78 cases

[80GS1000]

I'd keep looking for a good condition E motor - it'd be too much trouble to swap from chain to shaft. In addition to the motor swap, you'd have to swap over the shaft and get a new swingarm and all the other drivetrain parts. If I were you, I'd call the local salvage yards and hunt eBay for a good condition E motor.

[Tom MLC]

Thanks for the tips so far. The motor in my "E" is fine. Just bone stock. The chance to "upgrade" to a bigger bore is the motivation. I want to keep my "E" a chain drive. So modifying the swing arm & rear end is not necessary.

But if the casings are significantly different between the G & the E, then I may just scratch the whole idea. I still may pick up the G after I look at it on Saturday. For $400 obo it might be worth it anyway.

[renobruce]

I would think you could at least use the jugs and head from that motor and the crank. Weld up your clutch basket or use the one from the G if it's welded, and your done.

[MissFabulous]

Aren't the shafts 8 valves vs. 16 on the E? From what I understand there is a big power difference there. Might get a bigger bore but maybe not the power you're expecting from it. Probably be better to wait and see if you can find an E engine, but of course I could be totally wrong.

[renobruce]

Aren't the shafts 8 valves vs. 16 on the E? From what I understand there is a big power difference there. Might get a bigger bore but maybe not the power you're expecting from it. Probably be better to wait and see if you can find an E engine, but of course I could be totally wrong.

The only 16 valve 1000 was in '82 on the Katana.

[MissFabulous]

The only 16 valve 1000 was in '82 on the Katana.

DOH! My bad - guess I haven't read up as much on the 1000s as the 1100s!

[Tom MLC]

DOH! My bad - guess I haven't read up as much on the 1000s as the 1100s!

Don't feel bad, Miss Fab. I didn't know there was a 16 valve 1000 at all!

Does anyone know if there was a past thread on this subject? I did a search, but got tired of wading through all the distractions.

[fatkid89704]

im with bruce,cant you take the head and jugs off,remove the crak,rods and pistons and put them in your 1000 motor.that would be easier then trying to swap the tranny and cases over.

[BadBillyB]

Tom, knowing how passionate you are with the 1000's, I just had to put my 2 cents in. I would try and find out from the seller who supplied the pistons (in an odd size)?? Who resleeved and bored the block??.....It may not be what the seller thinks it is.....All the 1000's from 78-81 all had the same bore and stroke 70mmX64.8mm.....An even mm size for that bore would be an 1175cc kit.....Doesn't sound right to me....The cylinder head on that motor will bolt right on to your motor. It also has the larger intake ports as it was used with a CV carb arrangement. "The BIG Port Head" is what it should have on it.....Also keep in mind you have to have the cases bored slightly in order to run the bigger sleeves....The whole top end may swap, It's a possibility. The base gaskets are 2 different part numbers for these engines but they sure do look the same in a parts diagram.....BadBillyB

[Tom MLC]

Tom, knowing how passionate you are with the 1000's, I just had to put my 2 cents in. I would try and find out from the seller who supplied the pistons (in an odd size)?? Who resleeved and bored the block??.....It may not be what the seller thinks it is.....All the 1000's from 78-81 all had the same bore and stroke 70mmX64.8mm.....An even mm size for that bore would be an 1175cc kit.....Doesn't sound right to me....The cylinder head on that motor will bolt right on to your motor. It also has the larger intake ports as it was used with a CV carb arrangement. "The BIG Port Head" is what it should have on it.....Also keep in mind you have to have the cases bored slightly in order to run the bigger sleeves....The whole top end may swap, It's a possibility. The base gaskets are 2 different part numbers for these engines but they sure do look the same in a parts diagram.....BadBillyB

BBB, you're not the only person to be a little skeptical about the size of the punch out. I asked the owner about this and other things, yesterday. He sounds like he's not mechanically talented. My other questions concerned the exhaust & intake. He has a 4-into-1, doesn't know what kind, and he has what looks like stock carbs & airbox. I asked him how he got sufficient airflow for that big bore with stock carbs. He really wasn't sure. He does have the name & number of the shop that did the work for him. I intend to touch bases with them.

With this in mind, I get the feeling this bike may be a diamond in the rough. He's only asking $400 OBO. It may turn out to be a dog. Or it may turn out he just doesn't know what he has his hands on. The bike does not shine. It would surely be a project to restore. Or it may turn out to be an organ donor.

I can't wait to see it. \\/

[Tom MLC]

I want to thank everyone who chimed in so far. Most of the advice has led me to believe there are significant differences in the motor to make a straight swap impossible. Although I'm not afraid of major maintenance, I did want to keep it simple if possible.

I really see no practical advantage in field stripping two perfectly good motors to make one. The sensible thing to do is to hunt for the stuff I need to beef up the motor on my E.

If I do pick up this bike, I'll make the choice to restore it or part it out. I might be able to get some cool cash for the punched out motor. We'll see.

Thanks again.

[Tom MLC]

Well I did not buy this bike. As is often the case, it looks worse than in the pictures. Much worse. There is nothing on this bike that isn't rusty, pitted, oxidized, or otherwise corroded. There is a 1/2 inch of dust on the tank. Seat leather is cracked and ripped. Spiders will need to be evicted! Battery is dead. And the tank is empty and rusty inside.

I guess I shoulda known better. I did ask the seller if he had any more pictures. When he said no, I should have been wary. But I got carried away with thoughts of parting it out (I think I have ebay-itis). The real shame was driving almost 400 miles round trip and coming home empty handed!

Anyway, if anyone else want to give this bike a go, here's the craigslist add.
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/mcy/259549683.html In my opinion, she's a waste of time. There are many old GS'es out there that are diamonds in the rough, just waiting for someone to love on her. This bike is not one of them.

By the way, on the punch out. I see no evidence of any shop work. The only sign of any alteration from stock is the header. And it's so rusty I can't tell what kind. This owner is ignorant as to any mechanical details. He did say he had some info from the shop that did the work, but I didn't pursue it.