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I got a combination luggage rack/sissy bar for my bike, and although it hasn't come yet, I still have some concerns. The seller (from eBay) said it attaches to the suspension bolts, but I'm a little uneasy about undoing them. I've never undone the bolts before, so I'm concerned the shocks will spring up and it'll be a bitch to put them back on. Are my concerns unfounded?
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Probably! The rear shocks are on posts. You remove a cap nut and the add the rack and reinstall the nut. Ths shack never comes off. The BIG QUESTION!! Is the shock post long enough to be able to add the rack? Let us know what model you have.Originally posted by ShirleySerious View Post -
Yes, nothing is going to go boing and go flying. Just put the bike on the centerstand. If you have a tubular grabrail it might have to come off to fit your new rack.Comment
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I'll have to see what the situation is, if I get it. The auction ends Monday, and I'm pretty much the only bidder. I do have a grab rail, but I never use it, so I don't care if I have to remove it. BTW, here's the link:
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Well I won the auction for that rack and just got it today. It came with everything except bolts and nuts. I wish the guy had instructions because I'm confused. I got the front parts attached to the suspension bolts no problem. But it's the back part that I'm having trouble with.It comes with 2 curved metal bracket like things, but I'm not sure what they are and where they go. Here's what it looks like, maybe someone else knows how to attach it.
Last edited by Guest; 01-17-2007, 06:06 PM.Comment
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Check out the gallery pictures. Lots of bikes with racks. I dont have one but I bet the wife would like it. I think it has something to do with attaching it back by the turn signals.82 1100 EZ (red)
"You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTYComment
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Do you have a picture of the bracket it came with? If you do not have a plastic tailpiece the rear rack mounts normally tie into either the rear turn signal mounting bolts or the mounting bolts for the fender. All of the luggage racks I have installed have tied into the turn signal bolts with some type of bracket or spacer.82 GS850L - The Original http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ePics067-1.jpg
81 GS1000L - Brown County Hooligan http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...ivePics071.jpg
83 GS1100L - Super Slab Machine http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...t=DCP_1887.jpg
06 KLR650 - "The Clown Bike" :eek: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...nt=SERally.jpg
AKA "Mr Awesome" ;)Comment
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I tried looking through the gallery, and though I saw a lot of bikes with racks, they were all too low-res to help me.
I'm really bad at describing things and I didn't have the opportunity to take a picture of it today, so here's a drawing of the bracket, front view. (Apologies for the crudeness):
Basically, it's a piece of metal (there's two of them) that's straight for the most part, and on one end it's curved 180* and has two notches cut out of it. The other end bends slightly and has two holes in it. If I can, I'll try to get a picture tomorrow. They attach, apparently, to the rear mounts of the rack, right above the turn signals. My turn signals seem to be permanently attached because all attempts to unscrew them have failed.
And if by plastic tailpiece, you mean the place acts as a storage area behind the seat, then yes, I have one.Comment
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Well I finally managed to get the rack on, albeit kinda loosely. It wasn't easy doing that in the confines of a storage unit with 30* weather. Some of the bolts and nuts had a little rust on them so it was hard to tighten and loosen them by hand. I tell ya, that's probably the hardest spot to get tools on a bike, though I should probably invest in a wrench set. Here's a couple pictures:
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It looks OK, (and I hope the straight steel piece is 1/8 inch thick, or more) but I would remove the slot-head bolts and use hex-head instead. Two reasons for this are a tighter connection and easier to remove when necessary. Use lock-washers.Bertrand Russell: 'Men are born ignorant, not stupid. They are made stupid by education.'
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When the weather warms up you'll have to bring it over so we can wire brush off the rust and coat it with either clear or perhaps black paint to protect it from rusting anymore.
We can also compare it to both of my bikes and see if there's a better way to connect it, or if you already have it set up the best way... Right now it doesn't look right, because if you put any significant weight on the rack the two brackets in back look like they'll pivot, causing the rack to drop onto the tailpiece. What you really need is a single piece on each side that mounts to the location of the turn signals...
Regards,Last edited by Guest; 01-18-2007, 07:52 PM.Comment
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Hes being nice. Im gonna come off as mean. Heres my opinion... It looks like hell. Can we see that second picture pulled back a little. I think the rack and pad should be lower to the tail piece. Your cargo is gonna make the bike top heavy. That rear bracket system was engineered by a moron. To make this work on your bike you may need a hacksaw and a welder. I like the rack and backrest idea. I just think this one, on your bike, needs a little more thought process. Right now it detracts from nice lines and it may be unsafe. Lets see what others say.Originally posted by argonsagas View Post
Take Steve up on his offer. Sounds like hes got some ideas.82 1100 EZ (red)
"You co-opting words of KV only thickens the scent of your BS. A thief and a putter-on of airs most foul. " JEEPRUSTYComment
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Shirley,
I'm going to try and land in the demilitarized zone between PlaneCrazy and BonanzaDave \\
/ I also think that it CAN look nice, but it doesn't quite yet. One thing to consider is that the flat part of the luggage rack should be as close to parallel to the ground as possible... when the bike is on it's tires, not necessarily on the center stand... check that with a carpenter's level or measuring tape from the ground to the front AND rear of the rack. Should be the same measurement.
If it isn't level to the ground, then get some replacement standoff brackets (in place of those two-piece units) and change the distance between bolt holes as much as is necessary to hold the rack level. It appears that the rear brackets need to be a bit shorter.
When you've accomplished that, I think you'll have a result that you'll be more pleased with.Comment
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Well when I bought it, it said it was meant for a bike like mine. There seems to be two holes on the bracket, one to make it higher and one to make it lower. This is all I could do today, as I didn't have a lot of time and the rack came with the rack, seat, and two brackets. No instructions or bolts or anything.
I know it fits to the suspension bolts fine, but the bracket connections are what I'm worrying about. I didn't have the proper tools and the bolts are all rusty, so I'm gonna have to make a visit to the Do It Best tomorrow. The bolts I'm using are hex head.
I agree that it looks like hell, but that's the best I can do, considering the tools I'm working with, the limited space and time, the temperature and no instructions. Hell, I was even thinking about going for the "you know you're a redneck if..." look.Comment
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It looks like ****e! :-D
No offense! But something's wrong there, either with the design or with the installation. Try again!
If it still doesn't work! Do you have an angle grinder? If not, it's time to get one! :-DComment
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