st-st-studder

[Guest]

Hello,
As some of you may know I have been trying to get my bike running correctly for awhile now. Heres what I did. I put larger pilot jets in ( had 37.5 and went up to 40's, at 37.5 i was 3-3.5 turns out, and with the 40's I am at 1 or >1 turns.) I tuned to highes idle. Took her for a spin and she was really doggy at 2500 rpm, if i roll on the throttle, and opened her up to 7/8 throttle to clear her out and then she runs better after gitting over that hump, but still is far from being at her full potential. In the grage I warmed the bike up, and held her at 2500 rpm, where she bogs the most, and I could her that she wasn't running right in neutral at idle too, so I figured I could start there... anyway I held it at 2500 rpm for about 2 minutes. I took the plugs out and they were a flat black color. If I take it out for a ride though, and keep it up in the higher rpm range, the plugs look white, or lean. Also, I notice that I am burning a little oil, after thinking about it, I remember that at christmas I got a valve cover breather filter and installed it on a line that went right on top of my middle two pods. I can see a substantial ammount of smoke comming out of it, could that lead to the engine ingesting oil? what circut is the gas running through at 2500rpms in neutral with the throttle cracked mabey 1/12 of the way to make it rev that high? My bike has 41.5k miles on it, and has had an oil change about 100 miles ago. Also, I sprayed wd40 arround the intake boots, and there was no rpm change. The bike was not running right before these mods either. I do have a supertrapp exhaud too, and now have 7 disks in, which I beleave is a medium flow rate.
Thanks for taking the time to read this, and if i can provide any info to help diagnose the problem please let me know.

Nick

[Dave8338]

It sounds as if you're running rich on the pilot circuit and lean in the mid-range. Try turning your pilot screws 1/4 turn to lean it out. Have you ensured that you have no air leaks on the intake side? If so, and you're sure of that, you may need to raise your jet needles. Start with 1 notch down on the needle from it's current position. It can be set in half steps using washers once you get them close. Have you synched your carbs?

[Nicholaschase29]

dd

There are no notches on my needles. I have taken the washer/plug out from the top which as 2.5mm and put 3 washers on which total 1.6mm raising the needles .9 mm. Along with that I have drilled the fuel pick ups out 2 thousandths. The carbs have not been synched. My pilots are screwed in pretty far already, like i stated 1 screw out or less, to make it run the best at idle. I may try turning the screws in 1/4 turn, and see if that helps, I will also take out one washer. I will try it out tomarrow. * i cant really go on any long trips as i have not registered it since i bought it, and there is no license plate, but I may slap an old one on8-[

[Dave8338]

I'd go with a bench sync just to ensure that all the plates are set in the same position. When working on mine, just the slightest difference in the throttle plates made a huge impact in the power band, though this would not give you the lean (white) plug read.

[Nicholaschase29]

what is the procedure for a bench sync?

[nabrams]

I can see from some of your older posts that you've been messing around with those pods for some time now - only to come to grief.
Others have suggested you go to stock airbox and carb settings. Is there a strong reason why you won't? Even a non-stock exhaust (as you have) will almost certainly do better with stock carb and airbox.
If I were you, I'd want to enjoy my bike a little instead of messing around endlessly with jetting.

[Nicholaschase29]

I think that a stock airbox would begin to be a hassle. Taking it off and putting it on. I was thinking of taking a new approach, putting a large ammount of disks in my exhaust to try to correct the bad bogging at 2500 rpm and then rais the needles to compensate for the number of disks.

[nabrams]

It is extremely unlikely that will work (I could go into a lengthy explanation of why I think that, but I'm sure there are others who are even more experienced).
Just go stock - unless you're a jetting expert and have tons of time to kill, you're better off with stock carb and airbox.

[oldschoolorange]

First thing I would do is remove the carbs and then clean them with compressed air and thin brass wire. put the old pilots back in or get some that are in the mid range say like a 38.5 or 39 as you will be able to adjust them more. Remove any washers you may have put on the needles and bump your main jets up 2 sizes for now if you have not already. Pretty much all you want to do right now is find a good starting point for your jetting. I have an exhaust on my bike that was from a 650 and the rest is from a 1000cc track bike, and a UNI foam air filter. I went from a 105 main jet to a 115 and then a 117 once it got cold 0-2C. I never touched my pilots. Once you make sure the carbs are clean by cleaning them once and then cleaning them again make sure the holes in your emulsion tube are clean and clear of debris. If you have a vacume gauge then you can sync the carbs ( get all the butterflys in the same spot) put everything back together. Fire the bike up get it hot and then set the idle. once this is done run the bike on a stand through the rpm range and listen/ watch how the engine sounds at diffrent rpm's. if you are way rich it will backfire, too lean it will squeak and pop on decel, take note of where the problems occur in the rpm range and throttle position. Take the bike out on a drive, if it runs rough at certan rpms mess with the choke. if you choke the engine and it runs better then you know it is too lean in that spot if it rund rough you know you are too rich. If your plugs were black or really white replace them and start off with a new set.