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How much oil for a 650G?

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    How much oil for a 650G?

    Getting so close!!!!

    Got my bike all put together, replaced the oil filter and started to refill the oil. My Clymer says I'll need 4 qts...the dealer said I'd probably need a bit more than 3. So now I've put in 3.5 quarts of oil and nothing seems to be registering in the glass peep hole.

    Is this okay? Could I need more than what I've put in?

    I need to buy some more so thats no problem as I also pulled the air filter and it was bone dry...who knows when it was last oiled...so I'll get some of that tomorrow too.

    Also, before I fire her up, should I do anything to the carbs? someone posted on here that they did a 'quick' clean of the carbs before starting up. My manual tells me how to remove the carbs but is there some other kind of 'clean' one can do with them on the bike?

    THANKS TO EVERYONE FOR THEIR HELP!!! I"M QUITE PROUD OF MESELF!

    \\/

    #2
    Is your drain plug in? :-D JK! You won't know if you're going to need to do anything to the carbs until you try to pop it off for the first time. If the air filter is dry, it will affect your idle. As far as oil reqs. go with the book but make sure it is up in the window as once you run the bike, it will drop slightly as it fills the filter.

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      #3
      Did you drain the oil from the primary output shaft area???
      There is a drain plug near the shifter that lets the oil out of the catch area. You did not mention a new filter or not. If you change the filter and get it all out your looking at around 3.6 quarts.

      Put the bike on the center stand and wait about 1 minute. You'll see it rise in the siteglass. Start it up, check for leaks and run it in first gear on the centerstand for about 30 seconds. Naturally don't goose the throttle or get caught in the wheel. This fills the output drive shaft area up. Then shut her down and wait about 30 minutes.

      The level then can be checked and topped off if need be. Don't overfill the bike, it causes problems.

      The 650 used motor oil for the output shaft lub, the 850 and 1000 class bikes use gear oil in a separate chamber.
      1981 GS650G , all the bike you need
      1980 GS1000G Power corrupts, and absolute power corrupts absolutely

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        #4
        thanks!

        yeah I did change the filter out and drain out all of the old oil per the manual. Its still probably a bit chilly in the garage to maybe that slowed things down a bit too.

        I'll pick up another quart when I'm in town to top her up.

        Also, somewhat related, I bought some oil for the shaft drive. I've not drained it out yet or topped it up.

        How often do you shaftie guys check the shaft oil? Book seems to indicate that as long as it reaches the bottom threads of the bolt you're good to go.....

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by jbs80106 View Post
          yeah I did change the filter out and drain out all of the old oil per the manual. Its still probably a bit chilly in the garage to maybe that slowed things down a bit too.

          I'll pick up another quart when I'm in town to top her up.

          Also, somewhat related, I bought some oil for the shaft drive. I've not drained it out yet or topped it up.

          How often do you shaftie guys check the shaft oil? Book seems to indicate that as long as it reaches the bottom threads of the bolt you're good to go.....
          Have your bike level on the center stand and then fill till it comes out of your fill hole and you will be fine.Change every 2 years.You should have more than enough oil in the crankcase! DO NOT OVERFILL!With a filter change you should only need 2.7 quarts.if this is a g model chain drive

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks...

            I actually don't know when the shaft drive oil was changed so may as well go ahead and do it, eh?

            Think I'll have the neighbor come over and help me with the 'tilt' test to see if the oil is low or high and then I'll adjust accordingly.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by jbs80106 View Post
              I actually don't know when the shaft drive oil was changed so may as well go ahead and do it, eh?

              Think I'll have the neighbor come over and help me with the 'tilt' test to see if the oil is low or high and then I'll adjust accordingly.
              Just check it on a level surface with the bike on the center stand and you should see the oil half way between the low and high mark.If you do start it and warm it up first dont check the oil for at least 3o minutes after you shut it off so it will have time to go back down into the crankcase.I always have my oil just above the halfway mark but not all the way to the full mark. You should use sae 90 hypoid gear oil rated gl-5 for the shaft.The dealer carries it.On these older bikes I do everything by the book.Whatever it calls for thats what I use. Post some pic too! Everyone like to see pics.If its an "L" model there is a lot of things different in capacities.
              Last edited by Guest; 01-27-2007, 10:56 AM.

              Comment


                #8
                Carb part of your question....

                Originally posted by jbs80106 View Post
                Getting so close!!!!


                Also, before I fire her up, should I do anything to the carbs? someone posted on here that they did a 'quick' clean of the carbs before starting up. My manual tells me how to remove the carbs but is there some other kind of 'clean' one can do with them on the bike?

                \\/
                How long has it sat and how does the gas in the tank smell?
                If it's old or nasty replace it, drain it from the carb bowls, and try to start it up.
                If it runs well, just run it. If it runs poorly, you can put some carb cleaner in the gas, maybe clear out some passages in there somewhere. Chevron's techron works as well as any. You can put it in the gas at a higher concentration than it says on the label.
                If it won't run at all you will have to get into it a little more.
                http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

                Life is too short to ride an L.

                Comment


                  #9
                  It does depend on how long it sat.You should put some mystery oil in the cylinders and crank it over slowly buy putting the bike in gear and rolling the back tire around to lube the cylinders.Then put new plugs in.Drain your tank which you can do with a long fuel line down to a gas can,then put it on prime and let it drain.Or take the tank off and carefully pour it into a container.i use seafoam in the gas which will help if it has not sat too long.i would drain the float bowls or take the carbs off and remove the bowls and clean them.then you could spray carb cleaner in the passages with the bowls removed if you dont want to take the carbs off yet.it kinda all depends on how long it has sat without running.The more you do to prepare the less you will have to do later.

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