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1981 GS550L air/fuel problems

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    1981 GS550L air/fuel problems

    Hey folks, I'm working on getting my new/old 550 into riding shape, and I've stumbled onto some problems.
    Here is what I've done so far:
    - Rebuilt Carbs (thanks for the pdf. on that!)
    - drained gas tank and put 93 oct in
    - Changed the oil
    - New battery
    The problem is that it won't idle and it is very difficult to start (even with the electric start). It runs a little rough too. I've had the air mix screw anywhere from 1/4 turn to 1.5 turns out on each carb with little difference. It seems to start easier when I spray carb cleaner through the air box. It will idle for few minutes with the choke on full and at high rpms (around 3 grand). If I put the choke off, it tries to die unless I'm on the throttle, even after letting it run for about 10min (it was warm after several sessions of idle/die/idle/die). I only had it idling without the choke for about 25 seconds. I checked the fuel bowls and I have gas in them. It's easier to start with the bike on prime and full choke, though I can't even get it to start like that right now.

    When I rebuilt the carbs, I tightend everything down really well accept the sharp little air screw with the spring on it (as I mentioned above). I'm fairly certain I have the hoses hooked up right. I don't have the intake or airbox clamped to the carbs, but they are all in tight. I even sprayed around to see if the motor raced, but no effect. I didn't mess with the carb throttle sync screws because they seem to all open at the same rate.

    My best guess is that I'm not getting enough fuel in the fuel/air mix (hence the running with the choke full on).

    Any ideas?? I really just want to get it into riding shape...I'm going stir crazy!

    #2
    Did you adjust your float heigth? Did you seperate and dip yor carbs? Add the new o-rings?
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
      Did you adjust your float heigth? Did you seperate and dip yor carbs? Add the new o-rings?
      Don't forget the carb boot O-rings.
      Ed

      To measure is to know.

      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

      Comment


        #4
        I did not adjust float height...how do I do that and what should it be at? I'm assuming I have to pull the carbs back off...oh well. I basically left everything as I found it, only replacing everything with new parts. THe only screw that I left untightend (not all the way in) was the sharp air needle. Is that right?

        As for carb boot o-rings...I don't think I replaced them. What/where are they? Are they the big intake boots on the engine side of the carb?

        I messed with it last night and it's still a buggar to start. It won't idle well and runs a little rough when I finally do get it started.

        THanks for the help!

        Comment


          #5
          Oh I followed the carb rebuild from the main page so they were dipped and sepparated. I put new o-rings on the two metal fuel connectors that go between the carbs.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by khardrunner14 View Post
            I did not adjust float height...how do I do that and what should it be at? I'm assuming I have to pull the carbs back off...oh well. I basically left everything as I found it, only replacing everything with new parts. THe only screw that I left untightend (not all the way in) was the sharp air needle. Is that right?

            As for carb boot o-rings...I don't think I replaced them. What/where are they? Are they the big intake boots on the engine side of the carb?

            I messed with it last night and it's still a buggar to start. It won't idle well and runs a little rough when I finally do get it started.

            THanks for the help!

            Large O-rings located between the metal head and the rubber carb boots. The phillips head screws are a bitch to get out - you will need an impact driver and hammer.
            Ed

            To measure is to know.

            Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

            Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

            Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

            KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

            Comment


              #7
              I never saw those much less replaced them. I never even removed the boots from the head. Is there a decent chance that my problem is air leakage between the carb and the motor?

              Comment


                #8
                Do you have a manual? If not I'll walk you through the float heighth adjustment. Where the carbs attach to the engine side under the rubber boot is an o-ring. You need to replace this. Also if your airbox was not sealed the bike won't run right either.
                My hats off to you for doing this yourself. This takes courage because alot of people wouldn't.
                1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Thanks...courage or naivety! I do not have a manuel, so any help you can give me would be great. This is my first carb rebuild.

                  As for the o-rings are they supposed to be on the carb or behind the boot on the motor? I didn't find any o-rings on the outside of the carbs when I removed them initially for the rebuild.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I have the o-rings, a Clymer and other random parts on the way. THanks for the help.

                    Any other ideas??

                    Comment

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