650 running very rich

[tconroy]

you should not need the prime setting unless it has been sitting for a month or so.My bike can sit for 2 weeks and start right up without using the prime.Your carbs have to have good needle valves and o rings to do this and floats must be set perfect.Always put it on the center stand if it is going to sit for a couple of days.I always put my bike on the center stand whenever Im not riding .

[Gypsyjuggler]

The "Prime" setting is only for filling the carb float bowls. DO NOT use it when running the bike. Basically it bypasses the vacuum and uses gravity to fuel the carbs. Use it only to fill the carbs and turn the p/c back to the "On" setting once the bike is running. This is also the reason for changing the oil. If the bike sits with the p/c in the "prime" position, gas will continue to flow into the carbs resulting in gas seeping into the oil passed the cylinders. Once this occurs, you've essentially "thinned" your oil. This condition can cause major engine wear. Please change your oil and oil filter ASAP! I'd even go as far as to suggest you park the bike until you've completed these tasks. It's that crucial!

Brad bt

I only used the prime to fill the carb (30 seconds tops, I would think) and yes I plan on doing the oil change before doing any riding.

The air filter is in good shape so I'm not worried about changing it just yet. I have the Clymers manual as well, so I'm in good shape there. I'll be picking up new plugs before I do the oil change and replace them as well. (Last summer I think I was changing plugs every other tank of gas) I'm hoping I won't have to sync the carbs. I had that done last July when I first bought the 650 and it cost me $300. (Not going back to that place again!) They sync'd the carbs but it still ran the same way after getting it back.

[tconroy]

I only used the prime to fill the carb (30 seconds tops, I would think) and yes I plan on doing the oil change before doing any riding.

The air filter is in good shape so I'm not worried about changing it just yet. I have the Clymers manual as well, so I'm in good shape there. I'll be picking up new plugs before I do the oil change and replace them as well. (Last summer I think I was changing plugs every other tank of gas) I'm hoping I won't have to sync the carbs. I had that done last July when I first bought the 650 and it cost me $300. (Not going back to that place again!) They sync'd the carbs but it still ran the same way after getting it back.

I just purchased a merc carb sync tool for 75 bucks,including shipping from www.cycle-re-cycle.com.This needs to be done every few months.It is well worth the money.I hope to get mine in a couple of days.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Did you inherit the "sooty plugs" problem, or did it run fine at one point?
The PO(s) could have done any number of things wrong.
It's possible the dark plugs are from a weak spark. I realize you don't have much experience working on bikes and troubleshooting.
Take a new plug, correctly gapped and the correct heat range, and check for a good bluish/white spark. If the spark is good, I'd focus on the carbs as the problem.
Typical PO related problems can be anywhere from the wrong carbs installed to simple poor mixture screw adjustments.
An easy thing to check first, is to adjust the mixture screws for highest rpm. If yours move OK, try lightly seating them as you count how far out they are. They are normally 3/4 to 1 1/2 turns out on stock bikes with CV carbs. So if you count much more than that, it's a good chance the screws are contributing to, or are the problem. Set them to about 1 1/4 turns out and test start. Warm up the bike fully and place on centerstand. Set idle with the idle adjuster knob to 1,000 rpm's. Start at any carb, slowly turn a mixture screw in either direction until you hear the rpm's max. Fine tune that screw and then re-set the idle to 1,000 with the idle adjuster knob. Repeat to the other three carbs. If you get no response from adjusting them, that suggests other problems.
If the screws do respond well to adjusting, clean or replace the plugs with the correct ones and test ride. If you still see the same sooty plugs after several test miles, then you need to check other things.
Check the choke cable/plungers for a little slack so you know they're seated and not partially "on" when the choke is closed off.
Next would involve inspecting/cleaning the carbs. Checking the jetting and float levels, etc.
I didn't read every post here completely, but are you sure the air filter is clean and is the correct type? I've seen PO's apply oil to paper element filters and other dumb things. A dirty/incorrectly serviced air filter will cause a "rich" problem.
Just trying to attempt some simple fixes before going into the carbs or ignition.

[Gypsyjuggler]

Curious question

Can anyone tell me what the length should be for the vacuum line going to the petcock for a 82 GS650GL? Also, is there enough of a gap between the frame of the bike and the bottom of the fuel tank for that vacuum line to run without a problem? When I was attaching everything together, it looked like the vacuum line was getting kinked when it was placed under the frame and tank. I might be using a vacuum line that is too long, but I can't find any information in my books as to how long that tube is supposed to be.

Thanks for you help.

[tconroy]

It just goes up over the carbs and bends a little to fit into the tube by the fuel line.You put it on first then the fuel line.There is suppose to be a spring thingy that fits over it too.As far as the length you might check www.bikebandit.com it might be one the parts diagram listing.

[Gypsyjuggler]

Did you inherit the "sooty plugs" problem, or did it run fine at one point?

According to the PO, it ran fine before he turned it over to me. The only problem he had was a leaky petcock, which he replaced with a on/off gravity fed petcock. I'm looking at that as the main problem. With the oddball petcock it ran good, but with bad mileage and sooty plugs.

This last saturday, I pulled the bike out to do an oilchange. I walked the bike out of the garage and then fired it up to loosen up the oil a little. Everything was running fine at this point. I took the bike into the back yard to get it facing out on the driveway and put it on a level section for the work. When I pulled to a stop, I looked down and there was gasoline pouring out from the bike. I couldn't tell where exactly it was coming from, but it must of been from the top area by how it was dripping off the bottom.

I shut the bike down and it stopped leaking. So its not coming from anything I did with the gas tank or petcock. I removed the tank and looked for anything suspect. No luck. I decided to put the bike away for the moment until I could talk with someone about it, leaving the tank and seat off for now. I looked at the main fuel line and it came off the engine with just a little tug.

IS THERE SUPPOSED TO BE A CLAMP ON THE ENGINE END?????

There is no clamp and now I'm wondering if I have the correct size tube on there. The PO had placed an inline fuel filter on this line and I don't know if he used the correct size or not.

I'm hoping the week gets better then this.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

If the tank and petcock are sealing, then potential leak points would be the fuel line to carb "T" connection, the carb to carb connections, or through the overflow lines. Shouldn't be hard to see where it's leaking with a flashlight. I assume the bowls are all tight?
The fuel line is generally connected with a wire clamp or hose clamp, though the better fuel line, the surgical rubber type, requires no clamping.

[SAN]

because you said you never used choke last year, is un heard of for most suzuki's. i do believe the petcockwas problem. if you changed the plugs/oil before you first spin you would know. somtimes we over think a problem from where it started. [if po was honest with you]

[Gypsyjuggler]

Right now I'm just waiting to get the free time to go back out and attach the fuel line on the engine end with a clamp. Hopefully this will fix the problem. The current fuel line on the bike is a clear tube, which is helpful in seeing the fuel flow when I primed the engine the first time. The spring that I ordered from BikeBandit.com goes around the fuel tube pretty well, so I think that the tube is the correct size. I'll post more when I get the time to do the work.

Gypsyjuggler
"Juggler"....old gaelic term that means too stupid to get out of the rain.

[tconroy]

The clear tube is polyurethane and needs no clamp to keep it on.if you try to pull it off it will just get tighter like a chinese finger puzzle.When you take them off you have to push it off the line with a screwdriver.The spring you are talking about goes around the vacumn line that hooks up to the fuel tank.you should have 5'16th's fuel line.

[Gypsyjuggler]

Update and new issues with this '82 650L

Alright, I finally got it up and running. Unlike last summer, I do need to use the choke to start the bike up now, since I put the OEM petcock on.

How about this one....

After I warm up the bike and get it on the road for a few miles or so. (maybe about 5 minutes or so) When I'm slowing down to stop at an intersection, the bike will stall out and won't fire back up unless I open the choke all the way and actually put the petcock on "Prime" After I get running again, I switch it back to "Run" and it goes ok till I slow down at an another intersection.

I actually had to keep the choke open slightly to keep it from stalling out in the mean time.

So it seems that at low speed the engine is not getting enough fuel to keep running.

Anyone got any ideas on this one?

Gypsyjuggler

[chef1366]

Did you use 5/16 fuel hose? Make sure the two hoses that drop behind your airbox from between your carbs are not obstructed and you can blow into them with no resistance. (Float bowl vent tubes)