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Starters are Mean to Me

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    Starters are Mean to Me

    So,

    My starter clutch stopped engaging on the crank today. I opened up the stator cover and found the bolt on the crank (#1.) to be loose. So I tightened it up, (I don't know what the torque on it should be, so I took it easy) put the cover back on, and gave it a shot. Nothing. The starter is spinning, but the clutch doesn't engage. The clutch (I'm assuming #2) slides down it's shaft and doesn't stay engaged to the crank sproket.

    To illustrate:


    The bolt on #1 won't stay tight. (Is it supposed to be?) and #2 keeps slipping off of it's shaft.

    Can anyone help?


    thatdood

    #2
    There is supposed to be a washer on #2 that keeps the shaft and gear from slipping into the crankcase cover.
    Does #1 keep spinning or does it tighten and then loosen? Put it in gear and have someone hold the rear brake and tighten it to specs. Maybe try a little loctite.

    Last edited by chef1366; 02-06-2007, 06:47 PM.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      #2 is not the clutch, it's an idler gear.

      The clutch is the stuff shown in Chef's illustration.

      If the rotor keeps turning, hmm, isn't there a woodruff key on the crank? If so. maybe that snapped off.
      1978 GS 1000 (since new)
      1979 GS 1000 (The Fridge, superbike replica project)
      1978 GS 1000 (parts)
      1981 GS 850 (anyone want a project?)
      1981 GPZ 550 (backroad screamer)
      1970 450 Mk IIID (THUMP!)
      2007 DRz 400S
      1999 ATK 490ES
      1994 DR 350SES

      Comment


        #4
        Alas, there's no woodruff key for the rotor to engage on the tapered end of the crankshaft -- just an 'interference fit' with that bolt #1 done up tight. And it has to be done up VICIOUSLY tight... I forget the exact torque (varies a bit from model to model anyhow) but it's a real tweak.

        My suggestion is, remove the rotor and check the condition of the tapered end to the crankshaft. Almost certainly -- given that bolt #1 was loose -- the rotor will have been spinning on the crank. Which means that the taper may well be damaged.

        In which case, clean it up the best you can, put the rotor back on and tweak bolt #1 up to the required torque. Then see if things engage properly.

        Comment


          #5
          So,

          I tightened the bolt on the starter clutch, but it came loose again. ](*,) So does anyone know the torque specs for that bolt? I don't want to overtighten it and then strip the threads on that crank.

          That would suck.

          thanks,

          thatdood

          Comment


            #6
            I don't have specs for your '81 750, but my '82 650L calls for 65-72.5 ft.-lb., and my '82 850L calls for 65-72 ft.-lb., so I would feel safe saying that for your 750, you need 65-72 ft.-lb. of torque.


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