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Minor carb gunkiness -- do I really need to clean them?

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    Minor carb gunkiness -- do I really need to clean them?

    Once I worked out the ignition bugaboos, I went ahead and worked on getting my 1100GL actually *running*.

    Hooked up a little weed-wacker gas tank, filled up the carb bowls, jumpered in a helper battery from my Honda, gave it full choke, and hit the starter. Joy of joys! It actually started! Of course, with the inconsistent fuel delivery from my poorly-gravity-fed tank, I couldn't keep it running for long, but once it warmed up, it was idling perfectly -- even with the choke off!

    I noticed a couple things during this process. First off, there's obviously a stuck float, since I was soon standing in a growing puddle of gasoline. Secondly, even though it idles perfectly, it starts missing on at least once cylinder as I open the throttle. My diagnosis of this is that there's a clogged pilot or main jet in at least one of the carbs. (It seems weird that the idle jets would be clean and not the pilot or main -- isn't the idle jet opening much smaller?)

    The PO, while troubleshooting the ignition, had failed to drain the bowls when he buttoned it up back in October. That tells me that whatever gunk is causing these issues is probably minimal. So here's my question:

    What are the chances that I can get away with using a fuel-additive carb cleaner and actually have it work? And if there's any chance, what brand and/or type would you recommend? The only one with which I'm familiar is Gumout. Or, should I try an aerosol instead of an additive? Which one?

    Finally, since I put less than a pint of gasoline through it (and, via the stuck float, *into* it), do I need to change the oil yet? I was going to hold off on that chore until the bike is otherwise mostly road-ready.

    #2
    If you've already run enough fuel through to have fresh fuel in the bowls then you can skip draining them. Some people would go ahead and run the fuel that's in the tank, but I'd dump it and start off with fresh. Old gas doesn't even smell the same. If it is running decent you should go ahead and try the pour in. It's only going to cost a few bucks and a tank or two of fuel to find out. Chevron with Techroline is the one I like. And as for the oil change I think I'd wait and get it up to temperature for a while to try and get some of the residue suspended in the oil.

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      #3
      the pilot jet is the idle jet

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        #4
        Rick,

        Okay, thanks for clearing that up. I'm (obviously) a little new at this, and the common terminology seems to be different between the Suzuki camp and the Honda camp (where I've never heard it called an idle jet).

        It was my understanding that these carbs have three jets: an idle jet and two main jets. Is that correct? Is it possible for the idle jet to be open and the one of the mains to be clogged?

        Billy,

        It turns out that I don't have a real tank for this bike at the moment, so no worries there. I've currently got a line on one in good condition. I only mentioned the undrained bowls as a source of possible gunking. The PO claims that there were no carburetion problems before he let them sit undrained for four months, so I'm hoping whatever varnish has built up is minimal.

        So you recommend the Techroline stuff? Have you tried any others?

        Hal

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          #5
          4 months sounds like a very short time for fuel to get stale, or cause any problemsin the carbs. If bike ran OK 4 months ago, it should be good to go now. I'm with Billy, try the additives first, if it works, you'll be very happy. If it doesn't, you've only lost a couple of bucks

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            #6
            I personally like Berrymans Fuel Stabalizer.I use it 1 oz per gal. of gas to clean the carbs.I have done MANY "carb rebuilds" that way.I pulled the bowls and saw a LOT of varnish in the carbs.Put the bowls back on without cleaning and ran the 1oz/gal mix for a while.(about 10 minutes) and let it sit for a couple of hours.Started back up and ran for about 1/2 hour.(went for ride)Pulled the bowls off and everything was as clean as new!!Saved many $ in parts and time for a couple $ of Berrymans.
            Then I use 1 oz per 2.5 gal. of gas as preventive maintanence.

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              #7
              The miss you are experiencing on opening the throttle could be because the carb bowel that is leaking gas onto your shoe is not filling with gas properly. This happens eveytime I run my bike out of gas. It idles OK when the bowels get low but misses when I try to accelerate. You may find that once you get the leak taken care of the miss will disappear.

              What kind of a climate has the bike been stored in. I bought a bike that had been stored in a cold garage. When I tried to get it going there was no way I could get two of the carbs to stop leaking out of the overflow tubes. Cleaning and dressing the float needles, or adjusting the floats didn't help. After many carb tear-downs, much frustration, and close examination, I discovered that the bowel over-flow tubes were cracked and leaking. The bowels weren't filling up. Just leaking on the ground. Condensation must have gotten in and frozen during the winter, cracking the tubes. Water in the float bowel will also cause what you are describing.

              Before you tear the carbs apart or even dump cleaner through, why not try taking the bowels off the carbs and dump the crap out. You can do this if you take a Phillips stubby screw driver and cut the end of the handle off with a hacksaw.

              Play safe and have fun!!

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                #8
                Before you tear down the carbs try tapping the the float bowls with a rubber mallet . I used to have a GS 850 that would get a stuck float on one of the carbs after sitting every winter (same symptoms as you describe) a couple of raps with the mallet and she would run just fine.

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                  #9
                  There is a blue tank on ebay right now that should fit your bike: Item # 2402945892. Present bid is $20.50.

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                    #10
                    Are you sure the tank from an 850 will fit? The part numbers (from bikebandit.com) don't match, so I'm a little wary.

                    1100GL: 44100-49120
                    850GL: 44100-45330

                    Then again, looking at the parts diagrams, it seems that he's actually got the tank listed wrong. The 850 tanks appear to have only a single mounting tab at the rear, and his tank has two (like the 1100 tank).

                    In any case, I'm ALL over that one. If it's not right, it's not a big loss Please, nobody else bid on it!

                    Hal

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                      #11
                      Deafen The 850 tank has only 1 mounting tab on the bottom/middle.I don't think it will mount.

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                        #12
                        The early 850s had 1 mount, the 81-83 L models have 2 mounts. The part number difference is due to the color. Other people can probably verify this.

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