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Replacing Engine Cover Bolts
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Norseman
Replacing Engine Cover Bolts
Need some advice here; I need to replace the bolts on my GS650GLX engine covers as a number of them have stripped heads (original phillips type). I am looking to replace with poliched SS or chrome hex head, and came across Burk's Motorsports (AKA westcoastmc.com) who sells a set for my specific bike. However, I assume I'm not the only one who's had to do this, and was wondering if any of you had a better suggestion? Appreciate any feedback and advice.
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tconroy
Either one of those would do just fine! The chrome ones will be higher dollar and may chip if hit against if there chrome plated. i myself would use the ss. I have replaced them on my intake boots and used the ss and on the front exhaust flanges I put the black ones there cause you can see them against the chrome flanges better.I just went to weslakes and got them.
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Just go to a local Budget Bolt or something similar. Bring your old bolts and match them up.
Do you have an impact driver to get off you old bolts?1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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ptm
Burk's sells on eBay and has a 99.9 positive rating, so another indication they're probably trustworthy and the kits have what they say they do. The SS bolt kits are the way to go.
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Forum LongTimerBard Award Winner
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter
Super Site Supporter- Oct 2003
- 17434
- Indianapolis
The kits make it easier, and generally cost a bit less than finding stainless at your local hardware store. Plus you don't have to make the trip and suffer through all the frustrations of misplaced, stolen, and empty stock. Well worth it.
Get the stainless and use a dab of anti-sieze on each bolt.1983 GS850G, Cosmos Blue.
2005 KLR685, Aztec Pink - Turd II.3, the ReReReTurdening
2015 Yamaha FJ-09, Magma Red Power Corrupts...
Eat more venison.
Please provide details. The GSR Hive Mind is nearly omniscient, but not yet clairvoyant.
Celeriter equita, converteque saepe.
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Norseman
Thank You!
Thank you for the responses - I just wanted the Experts take on getting the kit. Sounds like I'm going stainless, plus the chrome adds a lot of cost.
Chef - being new to doing my own work on GS's, yeah, you'd probably be laughing your head off watching me work on the first stripped bolt (by the PO). I definitely have learned the value of an impact driver for steel fasteners in an aluminum host :?. Folks like you guys make it possible for us inexperienced to learn without hurting ourselves or our wallets (too much, at least).
Thanks again for responding, all of you!!!
Norseman
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tconroy
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Norseman
Thanks, TConroy, and you're absolutely right on. Wanting to learn is tough because I had to overcome the fear/trepidation factor that whispers "just take it to a professional and save yourself alot of grief".
My next challenge is working on the carbs, which are in need of cleaning I'm sure (bike sat for awhile before I bought it). I'm just unsure of how to begin the learning. In the meantime, I am spending alot of time just reading all the posts on the topic, and stopped the progressive "gumming up" by draining the gas, filling up with fresh gas and Sta-Bil and running it through the system. However, while the bike starts great, I'm getting a lot of popping when I rev, and it idles poorly, occassionally dying when idling. Oh well, one step at a time...
Norseman
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tconroy
Heres where you start. Go to the home page and go down to the (in the garage) section and you will find a step by step procedure of how to rebuild your carbs.First order your o-ring from www.cycleorings.com and you will be all set! These bikes take time and patience.I dont usually work on mine unless Im in the right frame of mind and have the time to acomplish the problem.Knowledge and understanding beats frustration and a high mechanics bill every time.Plus the reward of being able to ride something you worked on and it actually runs better is priceless.Plus you will get to know your bike very well and when something goes wrong you will know exactly what it is.That's a great filling.
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tconroy
on your poor idleling,have you put in new spark plugs and cleaned your air filter and made sure you have no intake leaks.You might try some seafoam for your carbs.That will help a lot.go to www.seafoam.com and read what it says about this product.
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Forum LongTimerGSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2006
- 13946
- London, UK to Redondo Beach, California
Unless you're going on holiday I'd try this link instead.... http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUpTechGas.htm1980 GS1000G - Sold
1978 GS1000E - Finished!
1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!
www.parasiticsanalytics.com
TWINPOT BRAKE UPGRADE LINKY: http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...e-on-78-Skunk/
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Norseman
Thanks, TConroy and Salty Monk. In fact, I did go to the post when I read your response and after reading, decided I can do this. I did not find the paper on rebuilding CV carbs the VM rebuild paper referenced yet, but I'll keep looking.
Also, your pointer on replacing the sparkplugs and cleaning air filter is well taken - I did clean the filter but have not oiled it yet, but no, I have not replaced the plugs. I am about to replace the cam cover gasket (minor oil leak, hmmm, it's only 26 years old - go figure :-D), so I'll do the plugs as well.
Norseman
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