Or does anyone have some idea how to shape it up without major surgery?
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Left Carb leaking :(
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mortation
Left Carb leaking :(
Left carb is leaking. I took the airbox off put the fuel on pri and watched it drip out into what would have been the airbox had I not removed it. Damn I don't have time to rebuild all four carbs right now. Anyone got a rebuilt rack they wanna swap me for(and some green of course)?
Or does anyone have some idea how to shape it up without major surgery?Tags: None
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mortation
Originally posted by tkent02 View Postand replace the valve. It's easy to get the outboard ones off without removing the carb rack.
Says nothing about a valve, to which valve are you referring (I dont have my Clymers yet)
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You can buy new ones without the entire rebuild kit....
Originally posted by mortation View PostFloat Needle & Seat
You might not need any parts, just get your old one unstuck.
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mortation
Originally posted by tkent02 View PostThink it's $10 or $12 or so.
You might not need any parts, just get your old one unstuck.
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tconroy
Originally posted by mortation View PostIts only $15 for the whole kit at oldbikebarn. I guess I really dont have much choice. Alot going on right now but I guess it shouldnt take me tooooo long to rebuild four carbs.
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mortation
Originally posted by tconroy View PostYou dont have to rebuild just replace the needle valve, needle valve seat and 0-ring. Just take the bowl off and the float.Then pull on the needle vale seat and it will come out.i would take the carbs off and do all four.It's easy and wil take about 30 minutes to do.i just got done doing mine and no more leaks.
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tconroy
Originally posted by mortation View PostWell, thats all the parts in the rebuild kit and I just ordered 4 so thats the plan Hope it only takes me 30 minutes minus the polishing time
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tconroy
They hold the carb bowls on.4 per bowl,you will need 16 of them.It will make it easier the next time.You will probably also need an impact screwdriver for the needle seat valve screw that are inside the bowls.I had one that would not come out with a screwdriver. If you go to the home page you will find a full discription with pictures on how to take your carbs apart.you can see how everything comes apart on it.It's called the carb cleanup series.If your refering to the carb slides as to where they are suppose to be,your #3 carb is where they should be.It is non adjustable. Set the others evenly across to the same height as the #3.After you get your carbs back on you will want to do a carb sync to get them perfect.Last edited by Guest; 02-15-2007, 09:24 PM.
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mortation
Originally posted by tconroy View PostThey hold the carb bowls on.4 per bowl,you will need 16 of them.It will make it easier the next time.You will probably also need an impact screwdriver for the needle seat valve screw that are inside the bowls.I had one that would not come out with a screwdriver. If you go to the home page you will find a full discription with pictures on how to take your carbs apart.you can see how everything comes apart on it.It's called the carb cleanup series.If your refering to the carb slides as to where they are suppose to be,your #3 carb is where they should be.It is non adjustable. Set the others evenly across to the same height as the #3.After you get your carbs back on you will want to do a carb sync to get them perfect.
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mortation
Originally posted by tconroy View PostThey hold the carb bowls on.4 per bowl,you will need 16 of them.It will make it easier the next time.You will probably also need an impact screwdriver for the needle seat valve screw that are inside the bowls.I had one that would not come out with a screwdriver. If you go to the home page you will find a full discription with pictures on how to take your carbs apart.you can see how everything comes apart on it.It's called the carb cleanup series.If your refering to the carb slides as to where they are suppose to be,your #3 carb is where they should be.It is non adjustable. Set the others evenly across to the same height as the #3.After you get your carbs back on you will want to do a carb sync to get them perfect.
Question, there are some parts that need to be replaced according to the guide that are not in the carb kit. Such as the connector o rings and gaskets, and plugs. Does anyone have a parts list for these to order them? I am not sure what they are by looking at diagram
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mortation
Originally posted by mortation View PostQuestion, there are some parts that need to be replaced according to the guide that are not in the carb kit. Such as the connector o rings and gaskets, and plugs. Does anyone have a parts list for these to order them? I am not sure what they are by looking at diagram
Hmmm. Looks like the rebuild kit I ordered wasnt a complete kit. I ordered:
Supplying new parts for Vintage Motorcycles! Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha. Old Bike Barn has what you need for your vintage motorcycle project!
And I should have ordered:
Supplying new parts for Vintage Motorcycles! Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha. Old Bike Barn has what you need for your vintage motorcycle project!
:shock: Damn. Hope I can salvage the parts I cant replace [-o<
Does anyone know where I can get the carb cleaner dip stuff the GS doc mentions? I didnt see it at VIP or Robins.
OH!
And does anyone have a tip for measuring float levels? The Clymer manual I have (not for the GS, its not here yet) doesnt give very good details on this.
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Forum GuruCharter Member
GSResource Superstar
Past Site Supporter- Oct 2002
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- Angeles Forest, So.Calif./Red rocks of Southern Utah.
There might just be a bit of dirt or ? interfering with the float valve seating. Rust from the tank will do it too. Small chips of rubber, like from the petcock rubber parts, can go down and lodge above the valve.And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!
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arveejay
Save all your old parts. The carb kits are crap, you will see brass shavings when you install the new parts, (where will those little shavings end up)the jets are inferior and you will end up cleaning and reusing your old parts because it won't be quite right with the kit parts. An O Ring kit from www.cycleorings.com is probably all you would need and it's less than $13.00. The ORing around the float valve is probably letting fuel by, not usually the valve itself.
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