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    Left Carb leaking :(

    Left carb is leaking. I took the airbox off put the fuel on pri and watched it drip out into what would have been the airbox had I not removed it. Damn I don't have time to rebuild all four carbs right now. Anyone got a rebuilt rack they wanna swap me for(and some green of course)?

    Or does anyone have some idea how to shape it up without major surgery?

    #2
    just pull the left float bowl....

    and replace the valve. It's easy to get the outboard ones off without removing the carb rack.
    http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

    Life is too short to ride an L.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
      and replace the valve. It's easy to get the outboard ones off without removing the carb rack.
      Carb Rebuild Kit. Includes: Float Bowl Gasket, O-Rings, Float Needle & Seat

      Says nothing about a valve, to which valve are you referring (I dont have my Clymers yet)

      Comment


        #4
        You can buy new ones without the entire rebuild kit....

        Originally posted by mortation View Post
        Float Needle & Seat
        Think it's $10 or $12 or so.

        You might not need any parts, just get your old one unstuck.
        http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

        Life is too short to ride an L.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by tkent02 View Post
          Think it's $10 or $12 or so.

          You might not need any parts, just get your old one unstuck.
          Its only $15 for the whole kit at oldbikebarn. I guess I really dont have much choice. Alot going on right now but I guess it shouldnt take me tooooo long to rebuild four carbs.

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by mortation View Post
            Its only $15 for the whole kit at oldbikebarn. I guess I really dont have much choice. Alot going on right now but I guess it shouldnt take me tooooo long to rebuild four carbs.
            You dont have to rebuild just replace the needle valve, needle valve seat and 0-ring. Just take the bowl off and the float.Then pull on the needle vale seat and it will come out.i would take the carbs off and do all four.It's easy and wil take about 30 minutes to do.i just got done doing mine and no more leaks.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by tconroy View Post
              You dont have to rebuild just replace the needle valve, needle valve seat and 0-ring. Just take the bowl off and the float.Then pull on the needle vale seat and it will come out.i would take the carbs off and do all four.It's easy and wil take about 30 minutes to do.i just got done doing mine and no more leaks.
              Well, thats all the parts in the rebuild kit and I just ordered 4 so thats the plan Hope it only takes me 30 minutes minus the polishing time

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by mortation View Post
                Well, thats all the parts in the rebuild kit and I just ordered 4 so thats the plan Hope it only takes me 30 minutes minus the polishing time
                Do yourself a favor and go to ace hardware and replace those phillips head screws with allen heads.Also look to see where your slides are set. This would be a Good time for a bench sync.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by tconroy View Post
                  Do yourself a favor and go to ace hardware and replace those phillips head screws with allen heads.Also look to see where your slides are set. This would be a Good time for a bench sync.
                  Where are they supposed to be?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    They hold the carb bowls on.4 per bowl,you will need 16 of them.It will make it easier the next time.You will probably also need an impact screwdriver for the needle seat valve screw that are inside the bowls.I had one that would not come out with a screwdriver. If you go to the home page you will find a full discription with pictures on how to take your carbs apart.you can see how everything comes apart on it.It's called the carb cleanup series.If your refering to the carb slides as to where they are suppose to be,your #3 carb is where they should be.It is non adjustable. Set the others evenly across to the same height as the #3.After you get your carbs back on you will want to do a carb sync to get them perfect.
                    Last edited by Guest; 02-15-2007, 09:24 PM.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by tconroy View Post
                      They hold the carb bowls on.4 per bowl,you will need 16 of them.It will make it easier the next time.You will probably also need an impact screwdriver for the needle seat valve screw that are inside the bowls.I had one that would not come out with a screwdriver. If you go to the home page you will find a full discription with pictures on how to take your carbs apart.you can see how everything comes apart on it.It's called the carb cleanup series.If your refering to the carb slides as to where they are suppose to be,your #3 carb is where they should be.It is non adjustable. Set the others evenly across to the same height as the #3.After you get your carbs back on you will want to do a carb sync to get them perfect.
                      Cool thanks. I will start tearing into them as soon as the carb kits show up

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by tconroy View Post
                        They hold the carb bowls on.4 per bowl,you will need 16 of them.It will make it easier the next time.You will probably also need an impact screwdriver for the needle seat valve screw that are inside the bowls.I had one that would not come out with a screwdriver. If you go to the home page you will find a full discription with pictures on how to take your carbs apart.you can see how everything comes apart on it.It's called the carb cleanup series.If your refering to the carb slides as to where they are suppose to be,your #3 carb is where they should be.It is non adjustable. Set the others evenly across to the same height as the #3.After you get your carbs back on you will want to do a carb sync to get them perfect.

                        Question, there are some parts that need to be replaced according to the guide that are not in the carb kit. Such as the connector o rings and gaskets, and plugs. Does anyone have a parts list for these to order them? I am not sure what they are by looking at diagram

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by mortation View Post
                          Question, there are some parts that need to be replaced according to the guide that are not in the carb kit. Such as the connector o rings and gaskets, and plugs. Does anyone have a parts list for these to order them? I am not sure what they are by looking at diagram

                          Hmmm. Looks like the rebuild kit I ordered wasnt a complete kit. I ordered:

                          Supplying new parts for Vintage Motorcycles! Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha. Old Bike Barn has what you need for your vintage motorcycle project!


                          And I should have ordered:

                          Supplying new parts for Vintage Motorcycles! Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha. Old Bike Barn has what you need for your vintage motorcycle project!


                          :shock: Damn. Hope I can salvage the parts I cant replace [-o<

                          Does anyone know where I can get the carb cleaner dip stuff the GS doc mentions? I didnt see it at VIP or Robins.

                          OH!

                          And does anyone have a tip for measuring float levels? The Clymer manual I have (not for the GS, its not here yet) doesnt give very good details on this.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            There might just be a bit of dirt or ? interfering with the float valve seating. Rust from the tank will do it too. Small chips of rubber, like from the petcock rubber parts, can go down and lodge above the valve.
                            And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                            Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Save all your old parts. The carb kits are crap, you will see brass shavings when you install the new parts, (where will those little shavings end up)the jets are inferior and you will end up cleaning and reusing your old parts because it won't be quite right with the kit parts. An O Ring kit from www.cycleorings.com is probably all you would need and it's less than $13.00. The ORing around the float valve is probably letting fuel by, not usually the valve itself.

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