lazer line up for sprockets

[Dink]

The 6mm spacer goes on the outside of the sprocket, if needed to allow the nut to hold the sprocket tight,due to the 530 sprocket being thinner.

Dink

[katman]

Right on the money Dink,

The dampening drive only spaces to the outside of the sprocket and has no relation to the alignment of the sprocket. The only need may be as Dink pointed out..something to take up any distance between the nut and the sprocket in case you can't tighten it enough.

The 18.50mm spacer is the bushing that slides over the shaft behind the sprocket. If you take off the sprocket you can slide the bushing out too.

To be clear again. NO SPACERS REQUIRED TO ALIGN SPROGS WITH 530 CONVERSION. They won't hit the cases. Just make sure the nut goes on far enough so the proper torque is reached so the darn thing doesn't fly off and ruin your shoe.

[80GS1000]

The other confusing bit in my mind is this whole business that the number of teeth on your sprockets needs to change when converting from a 630 to 530 or 520 chain to keep your gearing ratio the same.

Z1 says you need to change the number of teeth to keep the gearing ratio the same, but JT Sprockets calculates it the old-fashioned way, ie quantity of rear sprocket teeth / quantity of front sprocket teeth, which seems to make more sense.

That's why I bought a 15 front, 42 rear tooth sprocket for the GS1000 520 chain conversion to keep the stock gearing ratio at 2.8. Hope this is right.

I can see how you need more links on the chain though for the conversion because 630 is 3/4" pitch, and 530/520 is 5/8" pitch.

[katman]

you are correct. gearing is constant. 15-42 in 630 is the same as 15-42 in 520.The sprogs are just a lot smaller but there ratio is the same.

What you do want to watch when converting down is the distance between your pivot and the chain. with the much smaller sprogs the chain can contact the pivot and grind out a nice trench. Especially if you upgrade your swingarm to something newer..15-42 won't work.

I run 17-47 on my kat which is a little taller than stock. The rule of thumb is for every tooth gained or lost on the front gain or lose 3 on the back.

I will be posting a gear ratio chart on my site soon.

[Tom MLC]

Geez Rob, I was just complimenting on what a nice tool you have. I didn't know this would turn into a major debate!

Okay, here we go. My stock old front sprocket (nice hooks, huh?). Call it an offset, call it a dampener, whatever. My old sprocket definately sits AWAY from the side of the tranny case by about a 1/4 inch.




The new sprocket doesn't have these "things" on the side. It's just a flat sprocket.


Without the spacer BEHIND the new sprocket, it would sit flush with the tranny case. Or pretty damn close.

I called Z1 Enterprises and spoke to Rob. Yeah, another one. Wanna guess what he said? "Without the spacer on the motor side of the sprocket, the alignment will be off, & the chain might rub"

So it's a tale of two Robs!

(See if I ever admire your tool again!) 8-[

[Tom MLC]

you are correct. gearing is constant. 15-42 in 630 is the same as 15-42 in 520.The sprogs are just a lot smaller but there ratio is the same.

What you do want to watch when converting down is the distance between your pivot and the chain. with the much smaller sprogs the chain can contact the pivot and grind out a nice trench. Especially if you upgrade your swingarm to something newer..15-42 won't work.

I run 17-47 on my kat which is a little taller than stock. The rule of thumb is for every tooth gained or lost on the front gain or lose 3 on the back.

I will be posting a gear ratio chart on my site soon.

Yes, I agree here. The gear ratio would remain the same without chainging the number of teeth. But the smaller sprockets might result in the chain hitting the swing arm. So going up 1 to 3 is recommended. I went from 15/42 to 17/48. Keeps me at a 2.8 gear ratio.

[katman]

ahahahahh............... He is WRONGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGG!!

if YOU look at the cog. you will see on the engine side the bushing/spacer on the shaft pases through the "spacer/dampening on sprocket" and contacts directly with the sprocket.

Put another way.... if you remover the dampening crap from the stock sprog it will sit in the same spot.

The 530 sprog is only thinner from the inner face out. It WILL NOT sit closer to the engine than the stock one..Tom.. believe me. The 530 sprog will sit exactly as close to the engine as the 630 cuzzzzzz the bushing on the shaft passes through the dampening and spaces the sprocket only. The dampening sits OVER the bushing/spacer.

[katman]

the red box is the 18.50 bush/spacer. This is a suzuki pic of the 78 1000 front sprocket and shaft. Notice the sprog is flat.
I don't care how thin a sprocket you put on here, it can not and will not and does not nor can it get any closer to the engine cases than any other flat sprocket or the stock sprocket.

The only limitation comes in with the nut. it has a limited range and may need a spacer between it and the OUTSIDE of the sprocket so it will tighten down properly.

WHEEEEEEEEEWWWWWWWWWWWWWW... I am tired. Can I get an Amen?

[katman]

And Tom,

You bikes look nice man.... Very clean...

[Tom MLC]

Okay Rob, I give up!

I know you are far more experienced than I. Truely. I'm not being sarcastic. And I have always come to trust the Guru's here on the GSR...mostly. I know you wouldn't lead me wrong. At least not deliberately.

So one Rob is right...and one is wrong.

My new sprocket is coming back off. I'm gonna take a closer look at this thing.

Thanks. Oh, by the way...nice tool!

[80GS1000]

Yes, I agree here. The gear ratio would remain the same without chainging the number of teeth. But the smaller sprockets might result in the chain hitting the swing arm. So going up 1 to 3 is recommended. I went from 15/42 to 17/48. Keeps me at a 2.8 gear ratio.

Maybe I'm just dense, but wouldn't a 15 tooth 530 front sprocket be the same diameter as a 17 tooth front sprocket, same as a 42 tooth 530 rear sprocket be the same diameter as a 47? How would adding more teeth to the sprockets keep the chain from hitting the swingarm?

Will probably be making small chain runners to be attached on both sides of the pivot area of the swingarm out small strips of UMHW tape to keep from transforming the bike into an overpowered chainsaw. A whole lot cheaper to replace the plastic as needed compared to the swingarm.

[denydog]

I don't care how thin a sprocket you put on here, it can not and will not and does not nor can it get any closer to the engine cases than any other flat sprocket or the stock sprocket.

The only limitation comes in with the nut. it has a limited range and may need a spacer between it and the OUTSIDE of the sprocket so it will tighten down properly.

WHEEEEEEEEEWWWWWWWWWWWWWW... I am tired. Can I get an Amen?

Yes, It's so clear now!!!! Well done! Good job!

That's why I mounted my sprocked this time with the raised portion outside away from the motor. And another example of why not to trust a motorcycle shop to get it right!

[Tom MLC]

Rob, if I could make one of these smilies Kow-Tow...

Here's my front sprocket, minus the 6mm spacer pushed up against your 18.50mm bushing. Seems to be plenty of clearance.


Lots of extra shaft spline this way. I need that 6mm spacer here.


And there it is...


Here's the lock washer


Now where's that nut???
...

[Tom MLC]

...
Oh, there it is!


And hey, give a listen.

Now it's not torqued down yet, and this doesn't confirm alignment...but I don't hear any rubbing. I think its a winner!

Rob, you have my permission to slap this 'ol Irishman right in the thick spot...anytime. I owe ya one, dude!

[katman]

Now you got it brother. Your chain and sprogs will thank you. you will also have a much smoother cruise on the hwy cuz that much missalignment will cause a real drone on the hwy that will make it quite unpleasant to ride.

Glad its all sorted out dude. Good ridin'