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    Help with Carb Removal

    Ok, my petcock is shot (gas running straight through on Prime and Closed, but not on Res), carbs leaking (and filthy), and gas in air box. So, I'm pulling the carbs out for cleaning and gaskets/o-rings, and boots replacements).

    Being my first DIY time :shock:, what is the recommended method of removal? I did a search and found much advice on installation, but not on removal. Should I remove filter box, then air box, then carb bank? Is there a proper sequence?

    Finally, there's an in-line gas filter right after the petcock. Is this an aftermarket item? Also, are the gas line and vacuum lines a Suzuki-specific part, or can they be replaced by standard gas hose/rubber hose?

    Thanks in advance for any and all advice, folks.
    1981 GS650GL (oops, forgot that little detail, my apologies and thanks, khardrunner14)

    Norseman
    Last edited by Guest; 02-20-2007, 01:38 PM.

    #2
    It might be helpful if you mentioned what bike you are working on.

    I don't have to remove the air-box or anything on my 81 550, I just loosen the air box set up to get about an inch of play. Carbs are a buggar to remove (I'll have them off for the 4th time this weekend). Just pay attention to getting a good seal when you put them back on.

    Comment


      #3
      Hoses can be replaced with any automotive hose of the same size.

      I don't know what kind of bike you have, but usually you take the airbox out first, which involves loosening the screws on the airbox side of the carb and any mounting bolts. Watch the breather hose from your engine...make sure you looosen that as well. Note the location of your breather tubes, gas and vacuum line for your carb.

      The you've got to loosen and remove your throttle and choke cables (from the carb). Then the screws that hold your carbs to the intake boots and it should come off fairly easily.

      The carb boots can be difficult to remove. Most of mine were a pain the first time, I needed an impact wrench. Most replace them with hex head screws. Make sure that your screwdrivers are the correct size and fit well (very important).

      In-line filter is an aftermarket item. A lot of guys recomend not using them, that's my preference, but others disagree.

      If your boots are cracked at all or chipped, replace them when you put in your new O-rings.

      Get a manual too, if you don't have one.

      Good luck!

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks, khardrunner and Mark

        Sorry I forgot to mention it's a 1981 GS650GL. I have everything loosened up, but I can see I need to remove the filter box and air box (I'm assuming when you say "air box" that encompasses both units.

        Man, things are tight in there :?.

        Comment


          #5
          Wow, deja vu
          Pull off the air filter box and pull the front air box as far back as you can. On mine (when I had one) there was a spot in the frame where you could sneak the bolt portion of the front airbox so it would be as far back as possible. With all cables and breather hose off and all intake and airbox clamps as loose as you can get them without falling off angle the carb rack down over the airbox boots and pull them out of the intake boots at the same time. If your intake and airbox boots are old and hard good luck getting them back on. Listen to Mark and change the o-rings bihind the intake boots.
          Check this out.

          and this
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment


            #6
            Sheeesh...

            Chef, you're right on. Finally got the filter box out. Went to remove breather hose from top of front airbox, snap-crackle-break on engine side (brittle seems like an understatement). Man, I'm breaking a sweat here, and I ain't even started on the actual work yet :-|.

            I'm already resigned to getting new boots/o-rings for engine side, all new hoses, and anything else that is old and worn. Thinking long-term...

            Okay!!! Got it out, major crud/gunk... Now on to the CV Carb article (Icandothis, Icandothis, Icandothis).

            Norseman
            Last edited by Guest; 02-20-2007, 03:10 PM.

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