Does this NOS starter clutch look new?

[49er]

The thing I'd check is that the rotor (generator assy) can still bolt flush to the starter clutch with the 3 bolts. If it does then your're good to go. The only problem is to find out, means you got to pull your rotor off.

I know on my 1100 cranks I do too have that same ridge and it cause no problems. But since i think you said your bike is a 1000 I don't know if the rotor is the same, bigger or smaller.

Also try here cause they are pretty good with updated oem part numbers at the bottom of the page
http://www.alpha-sports.com/suzuki_parts.htm

Jake
Have you had any starter clutch failures while drag racing? I suspect that excessive lightening of the rotor assembly would create a weakness causing the starter clutch to oscillate and run out of true with the drive collar under high rpms. If the rotor worked loose..... bang.
Keith
As Jake pointed out, you need to visually inspect your set up. Do you want to disturb your baby just for this? If the price was right, I would store your spare away until/if ever you need it. Do these engines have a history of starter clutch problems, apart from when they are seriously modified?

[KEITH KRAUSE]

That's my problem Ian, this new clutch only cost me about $60 but I can't just store it away for the day I need it unless I know it's right. The Ebay seller sure won't give me money back maybe 3 years down the road. I can't make myself tear the bike apart now because it's not a real problem right now, it just slips once in awhile. Thanks very much for the replies and any more you guys can make.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Do the part numbers I mentioned before look familiar to anyone?

[Tervo]

Do the part numbers I mentioned before look familiar to anyone?

According to AlphaSports catalogue the original starter cluch for GS1100E 1980 onwards was 12600-49822, which was replaced by -49824 and then by -49825 and then by -49826.

Hope this helps.

[RacingJake]

The only things that has happen to me was I broke the 3 oem starter clutch bolts, forgot to replace them with 12.9 when I swap cranks. And spun the rotor assy due to I didn't torque the nut enough when I was at the track once.

I've always drilled out the rivits on the rotor and removed the magnet and just bolted it all back up. Haven't had any issues with that setup except when I installed my 1395cc block. With that you'll need to back off on the static timing cause she'll try to kickover backwards if you don't and makes one heck of a bang. Alot of stress on the crank bearings and starter assy.

I've even drop it in 2nd gear before at over 100mph with my 3.28 gearing and it stay together, think the rpms were in the 13K range???

I think if your a normal street rider then some stronger starter clutch bolts and making sure you torque the rotor nut down to the proper torque will solve any issues down the road.

When I do mine I also exceed the limit due to the clutch basket springs and cush drive rubber baby bumper pads that may affect you final torque reading when I have the rear rim blocked with some wood. And of course banging gears at 12K may have something to do with it too.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Thanks for the help.
I visited that Alpha Sports site and the drawings seem to say that he's sent me an 1100 part, 80's. I don't know if it would work but I can't take the chance so I'll send it back again. He still says he has two more. Who knows, maybe he still has one that's right and actually brand new?
By the way, anyone bought from Alpha Sports? They want about $100 less for the whole assembly than Suzuki. I was wondering about the quality of their parts.