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This needle valve looks OK, right?

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    #1

    This needle valve looks OK, right?

    Hi All,

    According to the shop manuals I have, if there is "scoring or pitting" on the needle valve, it and its seat must be replaced. However, the example graphic shows severe pitting. Below you can see what I'm seeing:



    When I run my fingernail over the marked area, I don't feel anything. But since it's such a pain to remove and disassemble carburetors, I wanted to see what the consensus is on the forum. Replace or don't replace?

    FYI, this is for an '81 GS 450T.

    Thanks,
    Matt
    Tags: None
    #2
    Were you having trouble with over flowing carbs? If you have a good petcock this will prevent this. If there is a question of them being good just replace them.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

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      #3
      Hey Chef...seems as though I'm playing catch up to you on your posts 8-[ Have to go with you on this one also...replace them. It's not worth the hastle of having to do it over again.

      Comment

        #4
        Originally posted by Dave8338 View Post
        Hey Chef...seems as though I'm playing catch up to you on your posts 8-[ Have to go with you on this one also...replace them. It's not worth the hastle of having to do it over again.
        I'll give you a ten second head start next time
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment

          #5
          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
          I'll give you a ten second head start next time

          Tanks pally....

          Comment

            #6
            Damn. I was hoping this was OK... There are no carb rebuild kits for this model. I spent a lot of time looking. An OEM needle valve assembly is $38/per-side at alpha-sports. Does that seem about right?

            At that price I may gamble and put the carbs back together with the originals...

            Comment

              #7
              http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SUZUKI-GS450-GS300-GS250-GR650-FLOAT-VALVES_W0QQitemZ330093159443QQihZ014QQcategoryZ35597QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
              1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
              1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

              Comment

                #8
                Thanks for the link. Unfortunately mine is a 1981. Those needles are shaped differently than mine. That's a hopeful sign though. I'll keep an eye on eBay for the correct parts.

                Comment

                  #9
                  Sorry, according to the microfiche at http://www.mrcycles.com/fiche_section_detail.asp the carbs are the same from 80-82. I saw the part numbers do not match but sometimes those Ebayers..............
                  Well it was worth a shot.
                  1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                  1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                  Comment

                    #10
                    The light grooving I see on that valve tip looks acceptable to me to continue using. It shouldn't be leaking as long as the spring is operating correctly. Is that carb leaking?
                    And on the seventh day,after resting from all that he had done,God went for a ride on his GS!
                    Upon seeing that it was good, he went out again on his ZX14! But just a little bit faster!

                    Comment

                      #11
                      Originally posted by KEITH KRAUSE View Post
                      The light grooving I see on that valve tip looks acceptable to me to continue using. It shouldn't be leaking as long as the spring is operating correctly. Is that carb leaking?
                      Agree. Doesn't look bad to me.
                      Ed

                      To measure is to know.

                      Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

                      Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

                      Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

                      KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

                      Comment

                        #12
                        Boy, if that's problematic, I should have replaced them on all my bikes because mine are WORSE. I did not, and all seem to be sealing properly. I know this because once there was a particle holding the valve open and it caused gas to leak out the overflow tube. After removing the particle, no gas leaked out - so I guess it's sealing just fine.

                        Comment

                          #13
                          Do you have a vacuum pump? Hook it up to the fuel inlet hose/nipple, assemble needle valves and floats, then flip carbs upside-down and give it a pump, See if it holds. You could also do the old stick the straw to your tongue trick if you don't have a pump.
                          If it won't hold vacuum, it could also be a bad o-ring, not definitely the valve, so check them too.
                          Last edited by Guest; 02-28-2007, 09:46 PM.

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