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    Carb Questions

    1) I am missing the pilot jet plug on carb 1 (so far) is this gonna be an issue?

    2) My diaphragm looks worn. Is this an issue as long as its not ripped? I cant be shelling out $84/ea for these

    3) If I leave the air screw alone is this gonna be an issue? I don't feel comfortable trying to drill them all out...

    4) Are there some nice reassembly instructions? I used the teardown guid on the GS home page but I am sure this stuff has to be put back facing a certain way, so many turns, lined up with X, etc.

    #2
    I was gonna delete my other thread but can't see how, sorry for any dupes.

    Comment


      #3
      Take your carbs to a machine shop and get those idle adjustment screws out. It shouldn't take them too long and hopefully it won't cost an arm and a leg.
      Take out your diaphragms and shine a bright light through them and see if there is any pinholes. If not they are good to go. If there is try Ebay or the parts wanted section for extra carbs. You can get complete decent carbs used for less than new diaphragms.
      I would get the pilot jet cap. I just saw a set on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GS450...QQcmdZViewItem
      1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
      1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

      Comment


        #4
        I saw your other post. You can drill out those caps. Don't worry it is quite simple and hard to screw up. Put a drill bit that is a bit larger than the hole and drill into it a little and pull the cap out.
        1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
        1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
          I saw your other post. You can drill out those caps. Don't worry it is quite simple and hard to screw up. Put a drill bit that is a bit larger than the hole and drill into it a little and pull the cap out.
          OK I did it and the screw is now in the dip. You were right it was easy and you could feel it go through the cap. And I suck with a drill so its all good

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
            Take your carbs to a machine shop and get those idle adjustment screws out. It shouldn't take them too long and hopefully it won't cost an arm and a leg.
            Take out your diaphragms and shine a bright light through them and see if there is any pinholes. If not they are good to go. If there is try Ebay or the parts wanted section for extra carbs. You can get complete decent carbs used for less than new diaphragms.
            I would get the pilot jet cap. I just saw a set on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GS450...QQcmdZViewItem
            I ordered them thanks. Now I just have to wait for them to come in to put even my first carb back together

            There are no holes in the diaphragm it is soft and pliable but feels thin and the top rim is not flat its raised and warped.

            Comment


              #7
              CRAP

              CRAP

              CRAP

              I put the damn choke cap and starter assembly in the dip. I didnt realize they had rubber parts. I cant find them in the carb diagram, how much are they anyone know?

              Comment


                #8
                OK what do you guys think, here is the diaphragm.



                Comment


                  #9
                  Jeez! That's awful! Won't do at all! Stop right now! I don't see a single beer can on that work bench!
                  But really, that diaphragm looks usable as long as it seals.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    As I said check for pin holes with a bright light. The rubbers on the choke are just dust covers and really aren't needed to run but I'd get them for the long haul.
                    Keep the carb cleaner away from the diaphragms. That will make them warp.
                    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                      As I said check for pin holes with a bright light. The rubbers on the choke are just dust covers and really aren't needed to run but I'd get them for the long haul.
                      Keep the carb cleaner away from the diaphragms. That will make them warp.
                      No pin holes, so I guess I will give these ones a shot for now...

                      Comment


                        #12
                        What is the default setting for the air screw during reassembly? I found 1.5 - 2 turns out from light seating. I am referring to the air screw I had to bore the cap off of to get to.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Need assembly positions

                          When I reassemble these carbs what is the correct setting for the following screws:

                          Air Screw
                          Air Jet
                          Main Jet
                          Pilot Jet

                          I.E. screw in to lightly seated, screw out 1.25 turns.

                          Thanks. Someone should ad on to the crab disassembly/cleaning manual with proper reassembly and bench syncing When I get to balancing I will be posting again lol.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by mortation View Post
                            When I reassemble these carbs what is the correct setting for the following screws:

                            Air Screw
                            Air Jet
                            Main Jet
                            Pilot Jet

                            I.E. screw in to lightly seated, screw out 1.25 turns.

                            Thanks. Someone should ad on to the crab disassembly/cleaning manual with proper reassembly and bench syncing When I get to balancing I will be posting again lol.
                            All the jets need to be screwed in snug. There is no adjustments of jets except for changing them to a different size.
                            The idle mixture screw should be about 1.5 turns out from snug but this will be adjusted later with the highest rpm method. After you get it running you will adust each mixture screw to achieve the highest idle. Your rpms will drop when in too far and also when you're out too far. Find that in between and you're good to go.
                            A bench sync is trying to get the trottle plates (Throttle plate is the round part on the intake side of the carb that opens and closes with the throttle) to open as close to the same time as possible without it running and then doing a proper carb sync with mecury sticks, morgans carbtune or vacuum guages when running. I use a wire from the inside of a trash bag tie. On the throttle where the cable hooks to each carb has a slotted screw with a lock nut. Adjust each carb so the wire just fits under the throttle plate kinda like using a feeler guage
                            Get a synchronizing tool. I use mercury sticks but alot of folks here don't like them cause they tend to pulse quite a bit. I hear Morgans Carbtune is the best you can buy.

                            1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
                            1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by chef1366 View Post
                              All the jets need to be screwed in snug. There is no adjustments of jets except for changing them to a different size.
                              The idle mixture screw should be about 1.5 turns out from snug but this will be adjusted later with the highest rpm method. After you get it running you will adust each mixture screw to achieve the highest idle. Your rpms will drop when in too far and also when you're out too far. Find that in between and you're good to go.
                              A bench sync is trying to get the trottle plates (Throttle plate is the round part on the intake side of the carb that opens and closes with the throttle) to open as close to the same time as possible without it running and then doing a proper carb sync with mecury sticks, morgans carbtune or vacuum guages when running. I use a wire from the inside of a trash bag tie. On the throttle where the cable hooks to each carb has a slotted screw with a lock nut. Adjust each carb so the wire just fits under the throttle plate kinda like using a feeler guage
                              Get a synchronizing tool. I use mercury sticks but alot of folks here don't like them cause they tend to pulse quite a bit. I hear Morgans Carbtune is the best you can buy.

                              http://bwringer.com/gs/carbsync.html
                              Perfect thanks! Will this manometer suffice: http://www.indysuperbike.com/custome...67&cat=&page=1

                              What size brass adapters would I need?

                              Comment

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