Hesitant acceleration after carb cleaning

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Well, something isn't right with the pilot circuit. If you seat all those side air screws, it will stall. No air into the pilot circuit will create a stall. Something's wrong there.
If it will idle well enough to tune them, then tune them using the highest rpm method.
Highest rpm method: initially set the side air screws to 1 3/4 turns out, warm up bike completely, place on centerstand, set base idle at 1,000 rpm by using the idle adjuster knob, starting at any carb slowly turn in either direction until you hear the rpm's max, when the rpm's max...stop turning, fine tune it, re-set idle to 1,000 by using the idle adjuster knob, repeat until all 4 are set.
Also, you should remove that fuel filter. If the filter is there to remove rust particles from the tank, the tank should be repaired. Fuel filters cause more problems than they're worth.

[ShirleySerious]

Oh, I'm going a little off topic here, but when I disconnect the petcock tube (the transparent one I hope), will fuel fly all over uncontrollably, or should I empty the tube first? That's my one fear about removing the tank and other fuel carrying parts.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Oh, I'm going a little off topic here, but when I disconnect the petcock tube (the transparent one I hope), will fuel fly all over uncontrollably, or should I empty the tube first? That's my one fear about removing the tank and other fuel carrying parts.

If the petcock lever is in the on or reserve position, providing it's operating right, only fuel you might spill is what's in the line. Just use some towels/rags.

[ShirleySerious]

If the petcock lever is in the on or reserve position, providing it's operating right, only fuel you might spill is what's in the line. Just use some towels/rags.

Do I have to empty the tank completely, or can I keep it in there?

[drillyourownhole]

Hi all.
Im folllowing this thread with interest as I have similar problems as Josh.

I recently purchased a 1979 GS550E with pod filters, inline fuel filter.

The 2 vent tubes between the carbs have been blocked off is this correct?

Would I be better off replacing the original air box and resetting the carbs or can I stick with pods?

I planning to use the bike all year round so I guess rain and pods isnt a good idea.

Sorry to hijack your thread Josh.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Do I have to empty the tank completely, or can I keep it in there?

If you want to take off the tank, make it easier by draining some gas.
Get some extra fuel line or fuel proof hosing and attach it to the fuel outlet. Turn the lever to prime. It should drain out into your can.
Be careful of snagging any wiring/cables when you remove it. Don't pinch anything when you replace it.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

Hi all.
Im folllowing this thread with interest as I have similar problems as Josh.

I recently purchased a 1979 GS550E with pod filters, inline fuel filter.

The 2 vent tubes between the carbs have been blocked off is this correct?

Would I be better off replacing the original air box and resetting the carbs or can I stick with pods?

I planning to use the bike all year round so I guess rain and pods isnt a good idea.

Sorry to hijack your thread Josh.

I'm out the door so just quick reply.
The floatbowls must breath. Remove any caps on the 2 and 4 vents. Pods require the vent lines be removed.
I'd lose that fuel filter too.
Up to you what's best about choosing pods or airbox. Lots to read around here if you want suggestions.

[Dave8338]

Hi all.
Im folllowing this thread with interest as I have similar problems as Josh.

I recently purchased a 1979 GS550E with pod filters, inline fuel filter.

The 2 vent tubes between the carbs have been blocked off is this correct?

Would I be better off replacing the original air box and resetting the carbs or can I stick with pods?

I planning to use the bike all year round so I guess rain and pods isnt a good idea.

Sorry to hijack your thread Josh.

In my opinion, unless you done exhaust mods (I'd like to see a port and polish when I say exhaust mods) such as a four into one system, what you gain by a rejet and pods is not worth the hastle...just my opinion. These bikes have a great air intake system from the factory...a bit on the finicky side but once there set, they work perfect! A big part of the longevity of any engine is the air it breathes...I'd go stock, great design!

[ShirleySerious]

I took the liberty of calling the guy at the dealer and making a recording of it. He does sound like he's talking a little nonsense. It's about 4 minutes long.
Download bikeconvo.mp3

[Dave8338]

I took the liberty of calling the guy at the dealer and making a recording of it. He does sound like he's talking a little nonsense. It's like 4 minutes long.
Download bikeconvo.mp3

I listened to the convo and it doesn't sound like the guy is trying to screw you over, he's just a guy behind the counter and may know little if anything about actually fixing bikes..."it's not his job", just the way he want's it, that's what the techs are for. I found it funny, when you mentioned that you were talking to "them/they", he was all over finding out what "they" say and who they are. He may have thought that you were with some sort of news show... :-D The part about blended fuels and added conditions, is bunk... if the bike is set up right, it will run right. The part about the baffles being drilled out is true. Both the lack of baffles and the addition of the pods, are going to lean out your bike. If the jets have not been changed and are indeed stock, that's where you're going to need to start.

[ShirleySerious]

I'm gonna take a look at the fuel supply to see if anything's wrong, because that's what I think could be it. But if it is the jets, do I adjust the stock jets or do I get new ones? Do the new ones come in different sizes?

UPDATE: I finally managed to get the tank off. It really isn't as bad as it seems, just heavy with gas. But I went and got new gas lines. The old ones were rotting and had a crappy fuel filter attached. I took them off and cut a new piece of hose without putting a fuel filter on, per Keith's advice. I started it up and let it warm up for a few minutes. I'm still having the problem, so I know it can't be the fuel line or fuel starvation. Fuel and vacuum lines are in good shape and securely fastened.

The carbs will have to wait until the Clymer comes. Any advice till then? If I need new jets, what kind should I get and are there any special tools I need?

[KSlawman]

Sorry the duct tape thing did not work, it was worth a try.
BTW, if the carbs were cleaned, why do they look so dirty on the outside. Mine are nice and clean. Just wondering what they did to clean them.

[ShirleySerious]

They apparently just cleaned the insides, plus I've taken it out on the roads since then, so it's gotten a chance to get dirty. As for what they did, I couldn't tell ya.

[KEITH KRAUSE]

OK. Problem here is you'd rather not work on the bike. Your experience limits you in knowing how to test also. We have to trust that the mechanic at least timed it right and the points are sparking/gapped correctly. If it revs freely in neutral, I'd assume the electrical is operating well enough. Normally, I'd ask you to double check the timing and dwell but I realize you don't know how at this time or have the tools. To try to simplify/narrow it down, I'll assume the electrical is OK.
I'm trying to make 100% sure it's the carbs and I want to eliminate easier to check/service parts before taking them apart again.
As for venting, the 2 float bowl vent ports should be open and removing the vent lines is correct for pods. I would think they are truly open if the carbs were just serviced. But to be sure, attach a snug fitting line on each one and blow into it. There is some resistance, but you'll be able to blow into them and tell if they're clear. A blocked vent will cause fuel starvation. If clear, let's move on.
As for fuel flow, you now have a new fuel line and a new vacuum line to carb #3. Only other possible fuel flow problem would be the petcock.
To check for possible poor flow/dirty petcock, many people can just take off one end of the fuel line, turn the petcock to prime and they know what an adequate flow looks like. You wouldn't know for sure.
I'd like you to do it though and describe what the fuel flow looks like. With the lever centered at prime, how long does it take to drain, say, 3 oz? Do you see any particles in the flow? Is the tank clean inside? I'm trying to tell if your petcock is partially clogged. You do have plenty of gas? Never test a bike when the fuel level is low enough to be near the reserve level, it can add to confusion. Best way to check the petcock screen and passages is to take it apart of course. The petcock is easier to service than the carbs.
If all the above checks out OK, then we can be reasonably sure it's the carbs. You didn't answer my question last time...did the problem start after the carbs were serviced??

[ShirleySerious]

I'm willing to work on the bike, but only if I know what I'm doing ahead of time. This is why I'm waiting for my Clymer manual.

To answer your question, no, the carbs didn't have this kind of problem before they were serviced.

I'm sure the timing is not a problem, as they checked that too, and the bike runs fine in neutral. I have plenty of gas in the tank, and will try to do what you're describing tomorrow.