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**arveejay** · 02-14-2003, 06:48 AM

I bought a 1981 650E that only ran on 2 cylinders and when I tore down the carbs I found the float arms had been busted off by previous owner. He had tried to use JB Weld and all the pieces were hanging by the pins, the jb weld had desolved and let go. Someone may tell you it will work if applied correctly and some will refer you to a site where they rebuild them. I'm cheap and bought a set off Ebay and with only a $50.00 investment and 4 cans of berrymans carb. cleaner the bike runs like new again. As for the other problem without tearing them down and looking I can't help you out, but others will.

**Anonymous** · 02-14-2003, 07:11 AM

thanks

Originally posted by arveejay

I bought a 1981 650E that only ran on 2 cylinders and when I tore down the carbs I found the float arms had been busted off by previous owner. He had tried to use JB Weld and all the pieces were hanging by the pins, the jb weld had desolved and let go. Someone may tell you it will work if applied correctly and some will refer you to a site where they rebuild them. I'm cheap and bought a set off Ebay and with only a $50.00 investment and 4 cans of berrymans carb. cleaner the bike runs like new again. As for the other problem without tearing them down and looking I can't help you out, but others will.

Thanks Bob I'll check e-bay

**arveejay** · 02-14-2003, 07:21 AM

When it comes time to clean the carbs again, use a small punch and a small hammer to get the pin to move. Also before attempting this use some penetrating oil on the pins. Trying to push the pin out will probably break more tabs but the sudden impact of the punch will move the pin. Tap lightly, if the pin lets go easily the punch may just be the culprit to break another tang. This has been covered before and others have their own remedies that will work also. I can't remember the thread but try a search with the phrase, float pins and it may come up. Others here may know the exact link but not me.

Good Luck and congrats on your excellent fortune of finding the little jewel.

**Anonymous** · 02-14-2003, 07:31 AM

thanks again

I couldn't believe it had a six speed.... thanks again Bob
Sacco

**Anonymous** · 02-14-2003, 01:37 PM

Your pilot jets probably got plugged again from running without the filter. If the the tank was dry, it probably had a coat of varnish in there just waiting to come loose and sneak into your carbs.

I have used JB weld to repair the float posts. The first time it didn't hold so I applied the JB weld more liberally and its still holding (smeared it up and down the length of the post and virtually enveloped the post in it).

**Anonymous** · 02-14-2003, 03:22 PM

cleaning carbs again

I'll open them up today Thanks junkman... Also I've read so much conflicting info on this websight about not removing the black box (air). :? Can I switch to K&N types on my bike without losing performance or something,its a 1981gs550t the engine is like new and I like the look and convenience of those filters. Could someone suggest a setup of bolt on stuff. I want to leave the bike completely stock except ;

exhaust ? good looking and loud, you know loud but I don't want to get pulled over. I live in Hollywood Cal.

carb filters? I'm out of touch with brands and they were always already on my bikes when I bought them.

jetting? Which jets to what number.
Do people ever drill out there own jets?.........Thanks everyone....

**first timer** · 02-17-2003, 09:52 PM

hey i was in the same story as you basicly with my 550t. i had to rebuild the carbs after the shop did it once for me 2 weeks prior. the little jet filter screens were clogged with rust. what i would do is pull the carbs apart one more time and clean every part very thoughly and when you do it buy a o ring kit ( http://home.att.net/~robert.barr/#Outside%20of%20the ) and a in line fuel filter before you even think about hooking up your gas tank agian, your tank probly has some rust in it some where or the fuel line may. i prefere to use a spring acutated center punch ( the thing used to make a mark to start a drill) to remove the pins and make sure you have the tower floats well supported when you do remove the pin regaurdless. you will not be able to run k&n filters without rejetting and if you want i have some lenthy emails i can foward you on rejetting and exhaust for you 550t it has a couple of manufactures you can get some stuff from. i also have a name of a shop that may have more 550 mac exhausts for sale at 150 buck + shipping i just got mine from them and im very please even though it is to cold to install it yet.

ryan

**Anonymous** · 02-19-2003, 01:49 PM

1981gs550t

Hey Ryan,
Thanks for the help, I would appreciate all the info you've got. sincerely, Patrick Sacco

**frosty5011** · 02-19-2003, 02:56 PM

Sacco,

Had same thing happen to me......broke one of the float posts off when removing the pin holding the floats. I tried the JB weld method, but it didn't work for me. I had checked after about a week or so, and the gasoline had really softened the "weld" and part was really flexible. So, I removed it before it eventually failed and turned it into "goo".

The way I eventually repaired the post, and it still holds to this day, 2 yrs later, is I "carefully" (using lathe and drill press) drilled a small hole into the two surfaces of the broken post...just over 1/4" into each piece. I made sure that it (the hole) was centered perfectly. Then I got a spring dowel pin (the one that looks like a hollow rod, but one side is split down all the way) that was slight oversized in diameter. I cut this down to about 0.6" total length. I then used this to mate the 2 broken pcs back together....slightly hammering them together (keyworkd = slightly

).

Now, you can just barely make out the seam where the break is.

Ron

**first timer** · 02-19-2003, 11:02 PM

This is lengthy and reposted from several email conversations I had with Ben Wantland who also has a 82 gs550. I?m posting this without his permission but I don't think he will mind.

"Hey, I'll try to answer all of your questions in order. I got the MAC 4-1 Exhaust from my local dealer, although you can get it for about the same price from MAC directly at 800-367-4486. I would recommend the competition (straight-through) baffle also, as the baffle that comes w/ the exhaust sucks. For the entire exhaust system, expect to spend around $400. I also got the air filters through my local dealer, and they were about $100 for the set of two dual-port filters. For jets, I got a Dynojet kit, and although it was pricey, there is a lot of engineering that went into it beyond what is feasible for the backyard mechanic. The dynojet kit came with different main jets, a drill bit for the slides, air restrictors for the low speed air jets, and different, adjustable needles. Right now I am running the DJ 155 main jets, needles on the third notch from the top, and idle screws 2.75 turns out (if I remember right). Unfortunately, the Dynojet kit doesn't come with jack for instructions, and when I called them about this, they told me that it was designed back in the day and someone had lost the master instruction sheet..... anyway, if you go w/ the jet kit, let me know, and I will give you instructions on how to install it. If you want to skip the expense, I can give you a little advice on how to tweak your existing setup.... either way, you have to understand how to tune carbs, but the kit just starts you at a higher standard and allows you to tune the entire system better than would be possible without. The jet kit also ran about $100, and I had to order it from Competition Accessories (www.competitionaccessories.com); although they don't have it listed on their site, I'm sure they can still get it if you call. I can't remember if I already said this, but a lot of the stuff I listed here doesn't say it will fit an "L" model, but it does.

One caveat: I think at this point, I am at the maximum airflow capacity of my carbs. They do not seem to want to flow above about 9000 or 9500 rpm, because the whole engine system is flowing so much air, but that is probably high enough. I know if my engine would breath well enough though, that it would make the very most power in that extra 500 or 1000 rpm that I am missing.

As far as power output, I haven't run a dyno yet, b/c it just hasn't come together for me, but if I had to take a shot in the dark, I would guess somewhere around 65 horsepower. I can definitely tell you that it is a night-and-day improvement over stock, both in terms of max power and driveability, and I'm pretty sure that I can spank almost any Harley that has been built for this side of $20,000.

One more note: if you are riding a 20-something year old bike, and you haven't done so already, you should really give it a serious look-over and make sure everything is clean, functional, lubricated and safe, or have a mechanic do it for you. AND, you should definitely get a shop manual for it. You will need it, even if you have the best instincts in the world.

Hope this helps you,
Ben"

" As far as what to do in what order to get power cheaply, its hard to say. You have to rejet and do clamp-on air cleaners at the same time. The engine will not even run with factory jets and clamp-ons. So, you are looking at between $125-$200 there for filters and jets, depending on whether you try to do the jetting yourself or use a dynojet kit. The exhaust system may or may not work without rejetting. Either way, it won't be as big of a performance booster as the intake, and it costs roughly twice as much. I would definitely say to get a 4-1, but if I had to do one or the other, I would go with jets and air filters first, from the point of power per dollar. On the other hand, its hard to deny the improvement in looks (at least compared to my rusted stock pipes), sound and power of a shiny new 4 into 1 exhaust system."

and last but not least here is the info for the exhaust (mac 4 to 1) i bought i do not know if they have more but if they do the price is worth askin about it.

milwaukee cycle supply salvage
1-800-359-6014

Ryan

p.s sorry about the length

**Anonymous** · 02-20-2003, 05:08 AM

1981 Gs550t

Thanks Ryan/Ron,
I will take all your advice on what I'll do with the bike, funny I guess that carb post is just dangling loose.(disolved JB weld) Ron that trick sounds like a good pemanent one. Ryan thanks so much for the indepth info, I'm pretty lucky to get such a response. I'll let you guys know what I do. Also I have the chance to get a used set of carbs that are guaranteed for 150.00. Is there a difference between carbs if their from a bike manufactured for sale in California? (1981) Sincerely Sacco

**frosty5011** · 02-20-2003, 01:58 PM

Just wanted to see if this works........trying to post pic of the repaired float post.

Ron

**Anonymous** · 02-21-2003, 07:03 PM

photo of repair

Nice job there Ron.

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1981 gs550t garage kept 6000mls driving me nuts

1981 gs550t garage kept 6000mls driving me nuts

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