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Removing the allen bolt on front forks

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    Removing the allen bolt on front forks

    While riding my 78 GS550E the other day, I noticed oil leaking down my front forks. I asked around and found that it was a busted oil seal. I'm waiting for the seal to come in at the shop on special order, but in the meantime, I'm trying to practice taking them apart so I don't get stumped when it's time to change it.

    My question is, to change the oil seal, do I need to remove the allen bolts on the bottom, or just the screw cap on the top? I tried taking the allen bolts off, but it's almost impossible to do by just holding it. The Clymer manual says I need an "impact tool" (not sure what that is) or some special holding bracket. I don't wanna have to go through all that trouble if I don't even have to take them off.

    #2
    9th post from the top by JayB. http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...ghlight=socket

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      #3
      Kinda confusing what he said. Do I even have to take the allen bolts off at all if I'm just changing the seals?

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        #4
        Originally posted by ShirleySerious View Post
        Kinda confusing what he said. Do I even have to take the allen bolts off at all if I'm just changing the seals?
        You mean the large one on the bottom of the fork? Yes, it has to come out to change the seals.

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          #5
          You will have to remove the entire fork tube to change the seal. As long as you are at it, you might as well change both. It is not an easy task, but well worth it when you are done.

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            #6
            I have two allen bolts on the bottom, so I hope we're talking about the same thing.

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              #7
              Originally posted by ShirleySerious View Post
              I have two allen bolts on the bottom, so I hope we're talking about the same thing.
              #15 has to come out. It's an allen head bolt.

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                #8
                If you search on my name you'll see a post about using a craftsman socket reversed with some extensions to hold the damper rod on the inside, then you don't need the impact wrench. I think Renobruce posted it maybe.

                Dan
                1980 GS1000G - Sold
                1978 GS1000E - Finished!
                1980 GS550E - Fixed & given to a friend
                1983 GS750ES Special - Sold
                2009 KLR 650 - Sold - gone to TX!
                1982 GS1100G - Rebuilt and finished. - Sold
                2009 TE610 - Dual Sporting around dreaming of Dakar..... - FOR SALE!

                www.parasiticsanalytics.com

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                  #9
                  Couldn't find it. I might have to ask a friend to hold it for me.

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                    #10
                    Sounds silly, but put the lower tube in the vice, wrapped to protect it; use a broom stick and insert into the tube, and have your friend push the broom stick against the top of the damper rod...hard. You use the allen head socket or allen wrench to loosen that bolt (#15 in the diagram posted above).

                    I did it, and worked fine. While it was apart, I found a bolt that had a head that fit perfectly into the top of the damper rod, and then had my brother custom weld a t-handle tool with that bolt at the end. Voila! Damper rod tool!! Good luck, and hope I was of assistance.....:-D
                    Mike

                    1982 GS1100EZ

                    Text messages with my youngest brother Daniel right after he was paralyzed:

                    Me: Hey Dan-O. Just wanted to say howdy & love ya!

                    Dan-O: Howdy and Love you too. Doing good, feeling good.

                    Me: Give 'em hell, Little Bro!

                    Dan-O: Roger that! :)

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                      #11
                      I wish I had a vice...

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                        #12
                        I got the broom trick to work ONE time, then I made a 'proper' tool to use the next time. At the hardware store, I got a pice of 5/8" all-thread rod about 2 feet long, and 4 nuts to fit it. These nuts take a 15/16" wrench, which is real close to 24mm. Jam 2 nuts on one end of the all-thread and the other two nuts on the other end. Insert one end into the forks, use a wrench on the nuts that are still outside the tube to hold everything steady, undo the bolt in the bottom of the tube.

                        If you need something smaller, a 1/2" rod uses a 3/4" wrench (19mm).

                        A good hardware store might even have metric all-thread, so matching sizes would be easier. If you need a size that is in-between, use the next size larger and grind a little off each face of the nuts at one end.


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                          #13
                          I'm hearing conflicting things. I'm told I have to undo the allen bolts to get inside, but I also have to use extensions which I use when it's open. Meh. The broom trick doesn't work, the handle is too thick to fit in the hole. I tried using an extension but that sucker won't move.

                          Is there any way I can get the seal changed without taking off the allen bolts without making any custom tools or using an air compressor?

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by ShirleySerious View Post
                            I wish I had a vice...
                            I've got lots of vices..........:mrgreen: , but I've got a bench vise too.:-D

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                              #15
                              Originally posted by Cassius086 View Post

                              I did it, and worked fine. While it was apart, I found a bolt that had a head that fit perfectly into the top of the damper rod, and then had my brother custom weld a t-handle tool with that bolt at the end. Voila! Damper rod tool!! Good luck, and hope I was of assistance.....:-D
                              What you need is the equivalent of an 19mm or 3/4" allen wrench. The top end of a 5/8" spark plug wrench with some extensions will work as mentioned as well as a piece of 1/2" threaded ready rod 18" long with two nuts jammed together on each end. If you don't have a vice try loosening or removing the allen nut before you take the fork tubes out of the triple clamps.
                              '84 GS750EF (Oct 2015 BOM) '79 GS1000N (June 2007 BOM) My Flickr site http://www.flickr.com/photos/soates50/
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