Removing the allen bolt on front forks

[renobruce]

OK, I think I already established that I got the bolt out. The !@#$% seal looks like it's pretty much glued in. I guess I might have to get new lower tubes because those mothers WILL NOT come out. I tried pliers and a wire stripper, but those just tore off chunks of rubber. I give up. What's the REAL secret?

If you removed some chunks, you should now be able to push in the weak area of the seal toward the center. Once you get a small section bent away form the fork, you can grab it with needle nose pliars. That worked for mine, and they were pretty well stuck on there. I suppose yours could be worse.

There is a special tool made for taking the seals out. Worse case senario, take the forks to a bike shop and they can pop them out for you. If you do that, you might as well have them put the new seals in, too. They will probaly charge you an hour's labor.

[first timer]

you can pick up seal pullers from most auto part stores. just use a old rag as a buffer between the puller and the top of the fork tube so you don't scratch it. the puller levers over the top of the tube.

also, you removed the c-clip thing that hold the seal in place right? also make a note on how the seal is fitted into the tube the is a top and bottom to the seal. and you will need to install it that way.

if you go that route and have the shop install the seals bring a fork tube with you, thay have a slide hammer tool that centers it's self on the tube. it should take them no more then 15 minutes to pull and install seals.

worst case, i can give you a hand free of charge, it is also tad trickey to get the right amout of fork oil in them too.

[ShirleySerious]

Meh. I think the metal part is actually welded on because I can't see to bend it at all. It won't seem to budge at all. I took a pic:

[Sandy]

Meh. I think the metal part is actually welded on because I can't see to bend it at all. It won't seem to budge at all. I took a pic:

That don't look good!!! That clip should be in a nice smooth groove and you should be able to relatively easily pry out one of ends that had the little hole in it and work it out of the groove with a small screw driver. I'm assuming you cleaned it up before you took the photo, if you did it looks really screwed up. If it's been welded in there, after you shoot the guy that did it, maybe you can grind the weld off with a dremel tool or something. I've enclosed a shot of the tool that I use to remove the allen bolt and damper rod. Maybe you could beat the guy with it instead of just shooting him because that's all it will be good for if you don't get that clip out. Looks like a good reason most of us do our own work.

[ShirleySerious]

Just in case you're wondering, yes I did take the snap ring off before. I'm not sure if the seal is really welded on there or not, but I still can't get it loose. I was under the impression that it would at least turn a little, but no.

Also, I will get a new lower tube before I buy another Dremel tool. I bought one and broke as soon as I got it home, as well as it missing a vital part. What a POS.

[Sandy]

Just in case you're wondering, yes I did take the snap ring off before. I'm not sure if the seal is really welded on there or not, but I still can't get it loose. I was under the impression that it would at least turn a little, but no.

Also, I will get a new lower tube before I buy another Dremel tool. I bought one and broke as soon as I got it home, as well as it missing a vital part. What a POS.

You had me worried, I thought the snap ring was literally welded in there.](*,) Sometimes those seals after being in there for 27 years or so can be a real pig to get out. I've normally been able to get them out with either a really big flat screwdriver or a pry bar. If you have a socket that is a slightly smaller diameter than the seal maybe using that and a hammer to pound on the top of the seal will loosen it a bit. If it's still too much trouble you just may have to take it to a shop at this point. They shouldn't charge much to r & r the seals at this point.

[ShirleySerious]

The biggest socket I have is a 7/8", the same size that takes off the screw cap on the forks. It is still a lot smaller than the seal. I didn't realize the seal would be that hard to remove. The metal band in the seal isn't a spring, is it?

I'm gonna have my friend come over tomorrow to give it a whirl. He's the one that got the bracket and allen bolts off, so maybe I'll have some luck.

[salty_monk]

Seals are always a pig to get out..... I've done plenty on differentials, wheel bearings etc.
I normally put a screwdriver 90 degrees to the face (so in this case the fork wall) & smack it with a hammer, this should bend the seal into a V at this point & pull it away from the fork wall.

You might have to do it in two or three places. This breaks the seal & then you can pry it out with a screwdriver.

Mind your fingers!

[Nerobro]

I used a pair of slip joint pliars to get the seals out of NotEvil's forks.

What has been done successfully is to burn out the forkseals. Rubber melts before aluminum... And the "metal" in a forkseal is completely encapsualted by rubber. So if you can get the rubber to turn to carbon, the metal bit comes out easy.

[ShirleySerious]

I used a pair of slip joint pliars to get the seals out of NotEvil's forks.

What has been done successfully is to burn out the forkseals. Rubber melts before aluminum... And the "metal" in a forkseal is completely encapsualted by rubber. So if you can get the rubber to turn to carbon, the metal bit comes out easy.

I would try that except I don't want to burn the spacer right below it, which is in good condition.

And salty_monk, would I put the head of the screwdriver parallel to the wall or perpendicular?

[first timer]

yes you have to be careful with the Teflon bushing that lives right below the seal. but you can try and use a heat gun and heat up the outside of the fork tube and maybe the tube will expand enough let the seal break lose. bite the bullet and go buy a seal puller, if you plan on owning a bike and do things yourself, you need to start collecting tools now.

[rickt]

The fork seals on my '78 GS750 were original and the bike sat unused for 26 years. They did not budge with scewdrivers or the seal puller shown above. I tried cutting them with a small cut-off wheel on a Dremel tool but got nervous when I got close the fork tube. I finally resorted to clamping the tube in a vise, heating the willies out of exterior of the tube where the seal is seated with a heat gun, and prying like a wild man with the screwdriver. Be sure to protect the top ridge of you fork tube if you are resting a metal prying device of any kind on it.

rickt

[ShirleySerious]

I got a seal puller today and will try it out. Hopefully I don't have to resort to heating it or anything.

[ShirleySerious]

Seal puller=waste of $12.

As you can tell, I didn't manage to get the seal off. I doubt anyone can remove them. It's like the frickin Sword in the Stone.

[salty_monk]

There is always a way... YOu can always burn something out or do something.

A friend of mine had a seatpost rust solid in a frame once. I took the bottom bracket bearing out stuck it upside down in a vice, filled with oil & then two of us actually turned the bike - about 3' of leverage each end with 300lbs behind it, that shifted it.

There's always a way.

Yes, you should put the screwdriver perpendicular, 90 degrees across the seal. Smack it until it pulls the edge away from the fork leg side. Do it three or 4 times, stick some oil down there then pry away, you will probably need some brute force even still. Heat if required.

Not braved mine yet, maybe in a couple of weeks when I get time...

Dan