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    Valve spring compressor

    I made a home made valve spring compressor using a link from an old thread by DimitriT. Here's the link.http://www.appledor.net/~jtsillas/sh.../topendtip.pdf

    I purchased the fasteners, bolts and nuts from a local Lowes. The padding is from a roll of truck bed camper seal. It looks like it should work fine and there is plenty of space to fish out the valve keepers.
    I'm going to take the head off in the next couple of days and I'll post more pics with hopefully a successful journey.







    Last edited by chef1366; 03-14-2007, 07:42 PM.
    1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
    1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.


    #2
    Very cool. Let us know how it works
    Doug aka crag antler

    83GS1100E, gone
    2000 Kawasaki Concours
    Please wear ATGATT

    Comment


      #3
      This is a shameless bump, but I think this is cheaper, straighter and easier.

      Originally Posted by spchips
      This is my Homemade setup, and it works VERY well.

      You need a large C-clamp, long enough to reach around to both sides plus 1-2 inches. I found one at autozone for $10, that has the nice feature of a push button release, so you don't spend a lot of time tightening/loosening.

      buy a 6" length of PVC pipe (electrical section). It's either 1" or 1 1/4", but whichever it is, it fits perfectly into the recess in the block, so that misalignment it impossible. I suggest measuring this then going to the store.

      If the thing came with threads, hack this section off.

      cut a rectangle out of one face, make the hole maybe 1" by 1". leave 1/8-1/4" from one side of the pipe, and a fair bit on the other. <edit - a cutoff wheel works if you don't have a jigsaw. - like me>

      XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX
      XXXXXXXX---------XXX
      XXXXXXXX---------XXX
      XXXXXXXX---------XXX
      XXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXXX

      <side view> - = cut, x = leave

      you can use the flat side of the clamp on the tool side and the bolt side on the valve face. again, if you get the right size, misalignment is IMPOSSIBLE.

      For assembly, getting the wedge things covered in grease allows you to use a small screwdriver to put them in place. once in place, the grease will also hold them there.

      Here is the tool I mentioned. I just used it on my 650 head - have also used on 1000's.


      Yamaha fz1 2007

      Comment


        #4
        Thats pretty much exactly what I did. A big c clamp, and I cut a spacer into a c shape.

        Comment


          #5
          The one I made worked but I did have issues with the upper valve seat not being centered. If I do this again I'm gonna try your way.
          1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
          1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.

          Comment

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