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    Front Brakes Mushy

    I recently changed my handlebar to a lower, clubman design. I love the way the bike handles now and the seating position is much better for my long arms. The problem is, my front brake is very soft. I pull the handle and it doesn't do anything until about 3/4 of the way in. Even then it is mushy.
    - I did not mess with the brake lines, I only rerouted them
    - I was careful to be sure there were no kinks
    - The brake fluid in the mastercylinder is a dark redish color as compared to the stuff in the bottle I have (clear with a little yellowish tint)
    - The pads are supposedly fairly new (PO says)

    What do I do? The bike is a 1981 gs550L...thanks for any help.

    #2
    Two things, you must have gotten air into the brake line when you changed the bars. Bleeding the brakes should eliminate the air. Second, you need to change that brake fluid. I suggest you bleed the brakes and keep close track of how low the fluid gets in the reservior. Add more fluid when the level gets low - do not let air get into the system. Keep adding fluid until the fluid runs clear out of the bleeder port at the caliper.

    Good luck.
    Ed

    To measure is to know.

    Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

    Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

    Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

    KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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      #3
      Brake fluid should be clear....

      Originally posted by khardrunner14 View Post
      - The brake fluid in the mastercylinder is a dark redish color as compared to the stuff in the bottle I have (clear with a little yellowish tint)
      Very easy to replace it, and bleed the brakes until clear stuff comes out. Do the rear brake too.
      The discoloration is water in the fluid, it is rusting things and causing the brakes to have other issues. The redness is rust particles.
      Turn the reservoir over and dump it out, put in new and start bleeding.
      Not sure how but you must have gotten air in the lines somehow while you were working.
      http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...tatesMap-1.jpg

      Life is too short to ride an L.

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        #4
        Yeah I'm not sure how air got in there, but I'll bleed away. I'll just replace the fluid and bleed it from there.

        About how much time should I alot for this. I've bled brakes for hours before, but never on a bike.
        Thanks.

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          #5
          Total job should take less than 15 min.
          Ed

          To measure is to know.

          Mikuni O-ring Kits For Sale...https://www.thegsresources.com/_foru...ts#post1703182

          Top Newbie Mistakes thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=171846

          Carb rebuild tutorial...https://gsarchive.bwringer.com/mtsac...d_Tutorial.pdf

          KZ750E Rebuild Thread...http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...0-Resurrection

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