Cam Cover - HELP

[Norseman]

I am going crazy, seems like nothing I do on this bike is without disaster . What I thought would be a no brainer - removing the cam cover for valve check/adjustment - is turning into another huge project. The PO ought to be caned for abuse. Cover bolts were obviously over-torqued with no anti-sieze. After snapping two bolts (no way of applying PB due to bolt flange so a little at a time to minimize metal stress), I finally got all the bolts worked loose and out.

But the cover is absolutely frozen in time and space. Left side seems loose as I get a sound-vibration when tapping along edge, but the right side is like tapping a rock. My question is how to "remove tach cable". I unscrewed the cable alright, but do I need to remove the sleeve with the clamping wedge as well? I think I should have invested my money in a factory service manual rather than a Clymer - Not real pleased with the Clymer manual.

And if anyone has any advice on working the cover loose, please let me know.

Thanks much,
Norseman

[chef1366]

For the tach just remove the cable. When I put the cover back on and before I bolt anything down I turn the engine a little to settle the tach gear into the cam gear.
When you are seeing straight again check and make sure you don't have that one hidden bolt still attached. If not try a soft impact hammer (rubber). If that doesn't work and the bike is running try starting it up and bringing it to operating temp and then trying to tap it off. It's probably stuck on the dowel so try and tap alternating from each side.

[Norseman]

Hidden Cam Cover Bolt?

Thanks, Chef. The bike is a GS650GLX. I have removed 16 bolts, is there still a bolt I'm not aware of?

Norseman

[deadmonkey]

I ended up getting a Clymer Manual but mistakingly for the shaft drive. Besides all information pertaining to the chain, everything seems to be the same. Clymer did an OK job with their manuals from what I can tell. Not the best mind you, but enough to get the job done. I would double check the manual and make sure you aren't missing a screw. Usually a good smack with a rubber/plastic mallet from the side should set it loose.

Does this help?:

[Norseman]

Cam Cover

I appreciate the guidance, Guys. I removed the breather cover and found two phillip head screws inside. Is it possible on the GS650GLX these two screws need to come out?

The cam cover is unbelievably stuck. I have been cutting up old credit cards into little strips and slowly working little pieces in along the engine side. But it really feels like there's something still holding the cover on. Both post locations I've been able to break the seal, but the cover still won't budge. From the look of it, this cover has not been off since the bike was new. The breather cover gasket is ooold, and basically had to be ripped off, I'll clean up the dges once the cam cover is off.

This job absolutely needs to be done. If I'm having this much difficulty, I seriously doubt anyone has ever done a valve clearance check/adjustment.

Anyway, the only possible hold are those two screws under the breather cover. Any thoughts?

Norseman

[crag antler]

The help I can offer would be to pull those 2 screws and try. It isn't going to take much and maybe the final solution to this problem.\\/

[robertbarr]

Where did the bolts snap? Just under the bolt heads, or lower nearer the head? Did the bolt shaft ever rotate within the cover's bolt hole? If not, it's probably the remaining bolt shaft welded (oxidized) to the cover that's keeping the cover down.

I had an identical problem on an '82 850. I wound up breaking the cam cover so I could unscrew the broken part+bolt from the head. Since they had changed the bolt pattern that year, it was a real problem.

You didn't note the year/model of bike. It looks like time to start looking for a new cover. If you can avoid it, great, but like you said -- it's not likely those valves have been shimmed in a very long time.

[chef1366]

I didn't say there is a hidden bolt but that there might be one you missed in your frustration. The screws under the breather will not help release the cover. There should be a dowel on one of the front or rear (#3 in the pic)outside bolts. I would seal the bottom of this bolt hole and spray pb blaster in there and let it sit for a day or so. The dowel and the cover have became one.

[Mike_H]

You said you broke two screws, right? I've got an 82 650GL, and there are 16 bolts, but I'm curious about the bolts you broke. There are two, with have alignment bushings on them. The bushings press into the head, and are steel. On the left hand side of the motor there is a bushing on the front set of 4 screws, in the left most part of the engine. The second is in the opposite location on the RH side of the engine. What I am thinking is that the 2 bolt you broke have rusted to those bushings, in which case, you will fight it for a while. I would spray penetrating oil into the hole, every couple hours for a couple days, then get a blowtorch out and heat the bugger up...Not too hot, but hot enough to expand the aluminum. Aluminum expands faster than steel, hopefully that will loosen it up enough to break that bond. You might have to give it a good smack with a deadblow as well. Good Luck!

[Norseman]

Thanks for all the feedback

Well, one of the two bolts that snapped (right front toward center of bike) is about 2mm above the base, so that one is not the culprit. The other (right front second in) did snap just below the head, and yes, there's a lot of corrosion down there. I sprayed PB down between the bolt shaft and the hole wall. I'll let it sit for a day and soak in.

............................Front................. .........
..X.........X ...............C............... X.......X..

..X.........X ...............C............... X.......X..


..X.........X ...............C ...............X.......X..

..X.........X ...............C............... X.......X..

However, I think I found my problem. The rear/right dowel guide seems frozen to the cover. The seal broke on the left side of engine, allowing me to flex the cover ever so slightly. Looking closely when flexing, the flexing stops abruptly at that dowel. So, I guess I'll plug the bottom of the bolt hole and fill the hole with PB Blaster, let it sit to tomorrow, and try whacking for vibration, and keep repeating that process until that sucker gives up the fight.

BTW, if worse case scenario, how tough is it to find a replacement cover?

Norseman

[crag antler]

BTW, if worse case scenario, how tough is it to find a replacement cover?

Norseman

If you have to , keep an eye on Ebay[-o<

[Norseman]

Cam Cover Compatibility

I'm just about ready to sacrifice this cam cover. I looked on eBay, but no luck so far. Do any of you have any insight as to the cam cover for a 1981 GS650GL, and if it was used on any other models than the 1981/82 GS650? [-o<

The reason I ask is possibly go the junkyard route, but if I look only for my specific model, I limit my search if it was used elsewhere...

Appreciate any help.
Norseman

[ptm]

The parts fiche shows two different covers for the '81 GS650L

Up through frame number 104612 it shows part number 11171-34200. The cross reference says that will fit the following:

81 GS650EX
81 GS650GLX
81 GS650GX
82 GS650GLZ
82 GS650EZ
82 GS650GTZ

From frame number 104613 and above it's part number 11171-34210. That's supposed to fit:

82 GS650EZ
82 GS650GLZ
82 GS650GTZ
83 GS650GD
83 GS650GTD
83 GS650GLD

Which makes it look as if it changed part way through the 82 model year. But it still has that frame reference on the 81 fiche.

Hope that helps more than confuses.

Good luck...

[Norseman]

Compatibility

Thanks, ptm, and that did help. I did find one last night off a 1982 GS650GLZ, and both part numbers include this model. When I get it, I guess I'll take my Dremel with a cut-off blade and hack this thing off.

I certainly do appreciate everyone's help in dealing with this.

Norseman

[Jethro]

Thanks, ptm, and that did help. I did find one last night off a 1982 GS650GLZ, and both part numbers include this model. When I get it, I guess I'll take my Dremel with a cut-off blade and hack this thing off.

I certainly do appreciate everyone's help in dealing with this.

Norseman

Holy sheet, there has to be a better way! You are going to get aluminum shavings all over the valve train, aren't you? Then you'll have to pull the head and who knows what will go wrong there.