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Adjusting chain tension
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andrewclaycomb
Adjusting chain tension
How tight should the chain be? How many inches of travel up and down in the center of the chain? Also, I'm trying to tighten it because it looks like it should be tighter but I can't make it budge. I've loosened the axle and I've loosend both of the adjustment bolts but I can't pull the tire back hard enough without pulling my whole body toward the bike. (I'm 6'6" and weigh 265lbs) Am i missing something, any tricks? I tried a mallet against the tire to try to push the wheel forward but no luck.Tags: None
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Ah, has been 20 some years since I adjusted a drive chain, but . . .
Dont loosen the adjustment bolts, but do loosen the jam nuts on the adjustment bolts.
Use the adjustment bolts to push the axle back.
I dont specifically reacall how much slack there should be, but there should be slack, not tight.Last edited by Redman; 03-25-2007, 09:40 PM.http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl
https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4
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andrewclaycomb
But the bolts just push the wheel toward the bike, I need to get the wheel further away from the bike. (tighter chain)
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No, the bolts push on the end of the swingarm so the adjusters pull the axle aft.
Loosen the locknuts, tighten the bolts, when the chain tension is right, (inch and a half or two inches slack in the middle of the run) rotate the wheel, make sure it doesn't get tighter during part of the chain's trip around the sprockets. If it does the sprocket is wearing unevenly. And make sure the wheel is aligned with the front wheel, not "steered" to one side or the other.Last edited by tkent02; 03-25-2007, 09:54 PM.
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Push - Pull, kinda hard to describe in words, I quess. BUt the adjustment bolt pushed on frame and the adjustment mechanism pulled on axle to pull axle back away to take up the slack in chain. Kinda hard to describe. Plus what I am remebering is over 20 years ago (but I remember it well, had to do it so often, and replace chains and sprockets..opps, gonna start another argument), and, Oh, that was a kawasaki. So....
Maybe pictures might help.http://webpages.charter.net/ddvrnr/GS850_1100_Emblems.jpg
Had 850G for 14 years. Now have GK since 2005.
GK at IndyMotoGP Suzuki Display... ... GK on GSResources Page ... ... Euro Trash Ego Machine .. ..3 mo'cykls.... update 2 mocykl
https://imgur.com/YTMtgq4
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andrewclaycomb
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andrewclaycomb
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andrewclaycomb
I really don't understand how that's possible, but I'll try it tomorrow when there is sunlight again.
How does that not push the wheel toward the bike by tightening it?
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Pearson
Originally posted by andrewclaycomb View PostI really don't understand how that's possible, but I'll try it tomorrow when there is sunlight again.
How does that not push the wheel toward the bike by tightening it?
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Originally posted by Pearson View PostYou just have to trust the 100's of thousands before you:-D. Try it, you'll see.
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Matt Vann
A top mechanic and drag racer told me to adjust the chain with 3/4" slack with you ON the bike. The slack takes up a little when the rear shocks are compressed with the rider's weight. So far, it's worked well for me.
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Take out your cotter pin and loosen the axle nut. I sit on the ground and grab the rim with two hands and yank away. Line up the marks on #18 (both sides) to the marks on the swingarm. Tighten the bolts on #18 and then the lock nut.
If you have a tight spot in the chain you might need a new chain and sprockets.1983 GS 1100E w/ 1230 kit, .340 lift Web Cams, Ape heavy duty valve springs, 83 1100 head with 1.5mm oversized SS intake valves, 1150 crank, Vance and Hines 1150 SuperHub, Star Racing high volume oil pump gears, 36mm carebs Dynojet stage 3 jet kit, Posplayr's SSPB, Progressive rear shocks and fork springs, Dyna 2000, Dynatek green coils and Vance & Hines 4-1 exhaust.
1985 GS1150ES stock with 85 Red E bodywork.
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