Hard to clutch

[ggreenfield]

I did read several threads about stiff clutches. Here's what I have:

Original OEM clutch cable
- Cable when disconnected from pivot arm moves freely. It is routed properly and not binding anywhere.

Original OEM clutch.
- Never been replaced or changed.

Aftermarket shorter handlebars.
- I did move the entire clutch handle farther out on the handlebars approx. 5/8" which seems to heave eaten up some of the excess cable between the clutch lever and pivot arm so it's a little easier to pull but not much.

How to adjust the pivot arm properly? How to know (without engaging/disengaging the clutch on a running engine) at which point the clutch actually disengages? Sure, put the bike in 1st, clutch, see if it rolls freely. Yes it does but you can still feel a little resistance when trying to spin the rear wheel. This is normal I suppose? Well..... I even forced the pivot arm all the way in and still I could feel this resistance.

How hard should it be to push the pivot arm all the way in? It is so stiff on my bike that I had to use an additional lever. I could not do it with my hands alone. Maybe this is normal?

I'll be changing the oil tomorrow or the next day hopefully that helps some as well.

What is the solution for using shorter handlebars? Custom built clutch cable? I can't move the clutch handle any further out without shoving the grips off the end of the handlebars.

[nabrams]

My CB750K now has short bars and there's no significant difference in force required to squeeze the clutch lever, even though I have the original, long, cable. As long as there are no really sharp bends there should be no problem. You definitely should be able to do it with one hand.
The online manual on this site has the step-by step adjustment procedure for the whole system. If, even after following that, you still have problems, then there may be something wrong in the basket.
Of course, it may be that the clutch has been inactive (bike been sitting for a long time?), and that it need to loosen up.

[Steve]

Cable may not look like it's binding, but if it got smashed at one time in its life, the outer jacket may have come back to resemble "normal", but the inner part is binding, and you can't see it. Try a new cable.

Oh, moving the levers in or out on the bars doesn't change the leverage ratio at all. If it's hard in one position, it's still going to be hard in another. By rotating the lever up or down, you might find a position where it is easier to pull, but it's just better efficiency with your hand, not a better ratio to make the pull easier.


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[chef1366]

On the clutch pinion gear there are bearings. (#27 and #25) When I first bought my 1100 the clutch was a bear. I took off the clutch crankcase cover and found the pinion gear to be bound. I didn't replace the bearings cause I put on an Ebay chrome cover where the gear moved freely.
Also I've had bad cables where they appeared to be good.
Are you sure no one put some HD clutch springs on?

[SqDancerLynn1]

You can not operate the piviot arm at the clutch cover by hand

[ggreenfield]

OK some changes @ both the upper & lower clutch cable adjusters and slightly moving the clutch handle out as mentioned have made a noticeable improvement. Now the angle between the clutch cable and the pivot arm is < 90 degrees when engaged and > 90 degrees when disengaged. Hopefully the oil changes does some good as well.