Odd New Problem - Hoping Everyone Will Take Just a Quick Look & Offer Suggestions!

[b1ackd3ath]

Hello All,

I love this site but haven't posted in a while. I have learned a lot here thanks to the dedication of everyone.

I have a 1982 GS 1100 G. I have done some work myself and had a lot professionally done. Last year the carbs were cleaned and synced amongst other things. The bike was running just fine at the end of the season.

I fired it up in December no problem. I tried in February but the battery was basically dead. I just went last weekend and got a new one, charged it and replaced it. The new batter cranks it over really fast and seems great.

The problems:

1. The engine will turn over while hitting the start button but the bike will not really start until I really hammer on the gas. This is with or without choke.
2. It is almost impossible to change gears. This wasn't a problem in the past. I can hardly get it out of first into second. I found that if I just barely pull in the clutch I can shift up almost normally.

Any ideas? I am an amateur and will appreciate even the smallest in recommendations!

[bwringer]

You let your bike sit without any stabilizer (Sta-Bil) in the gas and the gas turned gummy and clogged a few of the tiny passages in the carbs. It only takes about four weeks for this to happen.

Carb cleanup series (yours are pretty much exactly the same as the 850 shown):

http://thegsresources.com/gs_carbrebuild.htm

Do NOT order rebuild kits -- simply clean and re-use the stock parts and replace the o-rings.

Order o-rings here - $12 a set, and this is the world's only source:

http://cycleorings.com/

You MIGHT need new bowl gaskets. $4 each here:

http://www.crc2onlinecatalog.com/

This happens to everyone once -- don't let it happen again! Sta-Bil really does work as long as you make sure it gets down into the carbs.

[chef1366]

I would change your oil. Maybe your clutch plates are sticking with old oil.
On the carbs run some carb cleaner through the tank.
It basically sounds like you need to take it out and ride it to clean off the cob webs.

[b1ackd3ath]

Winter Preparation

I should have mentioned that I had the oil changed at the end of last season because the plug was stuck and couldn't do it myself. I also ran the gas out, put a full tank of new gas with Stabil in and ran it for a bit so it went through the carbs.

Is it possible one of the cables it messed up or something? I really didn't mess with anything but just an amateur idea. I think the carbs are clean by the way.

Also, when I got going in say 1st or 2nd gear it rode normal. It didn't sputter or anything. I just couldn't change gears...

[Pearson]

I would change your oil. Maybe your clutch plates are sticking with old oil.
On the carbs run some carb cleaner through the tank.
It basically sounds like you need to take it out and ride it to clean off the cob webs.

I couldn't shift after letting my bike sit all summer while I restored it. The clutch plates were gummed up with oil. Holding the brake while giving it gas in gear should get them freed up. So if you can get er running, then I agree with chef; go for a ride. See this thread for more discussion on the clutch.

http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum/showthread.php?t=100557

[GS JOE]

I had the same problem...well...except for the shifting problem. I charged up the battery after running it down while trying to start it. After a few more trys it started up and sputtered for a minute or two. I took it out for a ride and put a fresh tank of 93 octane in it and its good to go.

[robertbarr]

Not that I'd want to deter anyone from purchasing one of those fabulous O-ring kits, but let me mention that several of my bikes from the past (and my current Honda) run / ran very sluggishly on the old stabilized gas when they've been revived from hybernation. My Nighthawk just doesn't like Sta-bil. It runs, but it acts like it resents being awake.

I'd ride the thing and use up the remaining fuel. Start with a fresh new tank and see how it acts.

[Planecrazy]

I had the same problem...well...except for the shifting problem. I charged up the battery after running it down while trying to start it. After a few more trys it started up and sputtered for a minute or two. I took it out for a ride and put a fresh tank of 93 octane in it and its good to go.

A trick that often helps "slumbering" bikes to start after sitting idle is to turn the petcock to "prime" and wait fifteen to thirty seconds. Then start the bike and remember to switch the petcock back to "run." My '83 1100G always resisted starting after sitting for more than a week or so, but the petcock trick works well. The reason is that the float bowls slowly drain when the bike sits, and if you try to start it without letting the bowls refill first it can take a long time for the small amount of vacuum created during cranking to draw enough fuel back in to start up. When you put the bike on "prime" the fuel is able to flow on its own, filling up the float bowls before you ever hit "start."

Works like a charm!!

Regards,

[49er]

A trick that often helps "slumbering" bikes to start after sitting idle is to turn the petcock to "prime" and wait fifteen to thirty seconds. Then start the bike and remember to switch the petcock back to "run." My '83 1100G always resisted starting after sitting for more than a week or so, but the petcock trick works well. The reason is that the float bowls slowly drain when the bike sits, and if you try to start it without letting the bowls refill first it can take a long time for the small amount of vacuum created during cranking to draw enough fuel back in to start up. When you put the bike on "prime" the fuel is able to flow on its own, filling up the float bowls before you ever hit "start."

Works like a charm!!

Regards,

I agree. I use the same method on the 850, even after it sits for as little as a week between starts. Certainly starts a lot quicker than when left on the vacuum position.

In the past, my bike has had serious clutch drag problems when cold. Since the rebuild, I fitted a Barnett clutch kit. I had chronic drag, while running my regular oil (Shell Advanced SX 15W50 motorcyle oil). I have found a huge improvement since running Silkolene 5W/40. The thinner oil has also improved the gear shifting, engine cooling and the overall performance. I probably could run 10W/40 as the temperature here only drops below 0deg C for a short period each year. The 5W/40 has additives that seriously improve the engine's and oil's life, also providing superior shear and anti foaming protection.

[Suzuki mad]

The GS has been sat on the centre stand, without being run up, for 2 months. It's always a s*d to start with the vacuum tap. The GS(X)1100E has not been used or run since November! Turn the tap to prime and fire up and away she goes. No special wintering tricks other than a 'Deltran' battery tenderiser. No sticky clutches, or cables.

Sometimes I have to do a little with the rear brakes to get them working...

Now spring is here I'I change the oil and filters and get out for a few rides each week.

Suzuki mad
1981 GS1000ET
1983 GS(X)1100ESD
2002 GSF1200 K1

[paco13]

I have had worse luck starting/running my bikes, generator, lawn mowers with sta-bil in the gas than when I just fill it with straight fresh gas before I store them. So I don't bother with the stuff any longer. If they run rough I drain the old and burn it through my plow truck and put fresh in the machines with a little seafoam and they seem fine.

Check/Lube/adjust your cables?

If you don't have prime on your model petcock I pull the vacuum hose from the carb suck on it like a straw which lets the gas flow and fill carbs if they are dry.

[tomcat24551]

The problems:

1. The engine will turn over while hitting the start button but the bike will not really start until I really hammer on the gas. This is with or without choke.
2. It is almost impossible to change gears. This wasn't a problem in the past. I can hardly get it out of first into second. I found that if I just barely pull in the clutch I can shift up almost normally.

Any ideas?

1. Fresh gas does wonders for starting ease even if you used Stabil properly when you last rode the bike 3 months ago. I just proved this (to myself) last weekend!

2. Make sure the crankcase is not overfilled with oil. Too much oil causes the clutch drag until the engine and the oil get really hot.

When I change oil, I never fill it higher than the "low" oil mark near the sight glass. Then I ride it gently till warm and almost always the oil will settle at a higher level. Why? I don't know unless the oil just expands when it gets hot. Obviously, if you fill it to the top mark when cold, it's going to be overfilled when it gets full hot.

I have never read anyone else who said they'd experienced this, but I have several times--with 10w-40 oil. I've even had to suck the excess out just to get the level down to the top mark. Always works better with the sight glass about half full, I've found.

Tomcat

[b1ackd3ath]

I couldn't shift after letting my bike sit all summer while I restored it. The clutch plates were gummed up with oil. Holding the brake while giving it gas in gear should get them freed up. So if you can get er running, then I agree with chef; go for a ride. See this thread for more discussion on the clutch.
http://www.thegsresources.com/_forum...d.php?t=100557

I am not having any trouble starting it now (although I am seeing a gas leak, doh).

I have never been able to get this 1100 on the center stand and I would like to try giving it a lot of gas and then nailing the brake. I can get it in first and going. Is this a good way to try to get it to break the gum free?

[DimitriT]

When I change oil, I never fill it higher than the "low" oil mark near the sight glass. Then I ride it gently till warm and almost always the oil will settle at a higher level. Why? I don't know unless the oil just expands when it gets hot. Obviously, if you fill it to the top mark when cold, it's going to be overfilled when it gets full hot.

I have never read anyone else who said they'd experienced this, but I have several times--with 10w-40 oil. I've even had to suck the excess out just to get the level down to the top mark. Always works better with the sight glass about half full, I've found.

Tomcat

Same happens to my bikes. Oil reads high when hot and settles lower after cooling off. I always fill it up right to the top line. Two reasons:

1. I'm lazy and don't want to bother adding oil as some will get used until the next change.

2. I've read that the stator is cooled by being immersed in the oil and I figure the more immersion the better.

I've never had any clutch problems based on oil level, but then again I've never filled it to the point where I can't see the level in the window. In any case I think the range in that window is only half a quart of oil so if your bike takes 3 quarts, I can't imagine half a quart extra will do it any harm.