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what about synthetics?
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PB_Maine
My experience with Synthetic oil on my 81 GS1000L was leakage in a number of areas that didn't leak before. The valve seals also leaked because I started getting that telltale white smoke when it had sat for a few days. I switched back to Castrol 20-50 and the leakes have stopped. I'm concerned I may have gone too far and should've used 10-40 though.
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roscoe G coltrane
and the winner is....
Well since I'm the one that started this whole debate I feel like I should check back in with my results.
a couple weeks ago, while the bike was parked for some upgrades (new bars, grips, hand controls and clutch cable) I had left the petcock on prime. after reading a couple threads on what this could do, I decided to drain the oil, toss the filter and put in some cheap 10-40 dino, ride it for 30 min. then drain it and replace the filter and oil again. I noticed while I was riding it with the dino oil, it didn't shift as good, very notchy, and the clutch was engaging with a jerk. it didn't do any of this before I changed the oil so it got me to thinking that maybe it had synth in it to start with.
Remember the PO said he didn't know what kind of oil was in there.
So I decided to go with Rotella 5W-40 in the blue jug. $16 a gallon at wal mart. for a full synthetic thats a bargain compared to red line, royal purple or amsoil at 8 to 9 bucks a quart.
well its been in there for about a week now and so far so good. it shifts alot better, the clutch is silky smooth, no slippage at all and no leaks that I can see. Now I know there are plenty of guys that use 10-40 dino with no problems either and thats fine more power to ya. I'm just telling what works for me. Thank you all for your imput, roscoe
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Dan Ruddock
Rotella T 5-40 good choice I plan to do the same once I put some more miles on a fresh top end with the 15-40 white bottle stuff. I can't think of a better choice for a mc if you on a budgit. Dan
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